Demode Court Dress - SHINY and all in one place FINAL UPDATE - L

New pictures added below.
 Queen of Clubs.  All hope is not lost.  I've made a lot of progress in the last few days and have decided to re-assemble most of my posts in one place.

The Demode Court Dress for CoCo meet-up was delayed by one year.  This was a very good thing for me.  I had originally thought I could drape this without a pattern.  I now know this was wrong.  Maybe another time.  This is my first attempt at anything earlier than 1850 and I went right for something remarkably difficult.  Not only that, though, I chose an inspiration dress that is a victorian fancy dress.  I'm on my own to figure out how to make all the trim look 1770's.  Or even something sorta kinda like that.

 Last year I made stays and giant pocket hoops.  I also made a chemise.

Earlier this year I caved in and got a pattern.  Mill Farm.  I got it because it was cheap and I knew that I'd have to do a lot of modifications.  While the shape of the pattern is accurate, I find it confusing.  More confusing than it needs to be, mostly because there are no pictures or drawing in the instructions.

Step one.  FBA.  I couldn't find any help online for increasing bust volume for this kind of dress, so I made it up.  It actually worked pretty well.  Robin helped me fit and there were only modest changes.  But I was laced too tight.  When I checked the second muslin it was too small.

I 'fixed' it again and went ahead and cut.

I also cut organdy for an under petticoat.  I used Kendra's post for help in getting it put together because I really had NO IDEA.  None.  Pretty sloppy the first time through but it worked and won't show at all.  I promise to do better with the proper petticoat.  Really.  I have a picture but is is trapped in a device with a broken power cord.

So I have cut my cheap poly taffeta for bodice, petticoat, sleeves and skirt (including the pleated francaise back).  I chose cheap fabric because I wasn't sure I could do justice to a project this size and I just couldn't spend a ton of money on an abject failure (remembering the disastrous Edwardian tea dress here - no link for the obvious reason).

I managed to put everything on - pinned together and fraying - just to make sure that it did, in fact, actually fit.  Here is what I learned:

- Wow!  It is really shiny!
- The bodice fits pretty darned good (there is a pin in the center back because it was a little big)
and the creases mostly go away when I turn up the edge of the bodice.
- The length of the petticoat is fine.  I can do a little hem.  I can now sew it up for reals including that 'doing a better job' part.
- Wow, it is REALLY shiny!


Next, I need to start deciding what I want to do about the decoration.  Because it is time to start decorating the stomacher and front of the petticoat.  I have to wait for Robin to get back from travels to fit the sleeves and the pleated back.  I'm just not THAT flexible.  Not in stays.  My dress form is useless for this because it is nothing like my body.  It is smaller than my measurements but the shoulders and back are larger than me.  An expensive hanger.  But very helpful for deciding what trim combinations I like.  So there's that.

Fun fact - if I wear rubber soled shoes and drag my feet on the carpet, I could probably electrocute someone in this thing.  More to come soon.

Or not so soon.  And since I wrote the words above, I've learned even more.  Most everything needs to be hand sewn. It's just too fussy to do on a machine and would actually take MORE time.  Getting the dress to hand correctly over the hoops is difficult.  I would pin it on the dress form, baste it and hang it right side out.  And it would be uneven.  The pattern was not designed to be worn over panniers so I was on my own to figure it all out.  Attaching the skirt to the bodice with the pannier sides sticking out didn't work as simply as I expected and I just kept pinning basting and ripping out.  Eventually it was 'good enough' and I sewed it into place.  One area of dismay was sort of hidden by the watteau pleats and another was in plain view but my sleeves were often in the way.  The sleeves weren't as difficult as I'd expected.  Only had to baste them in twice.  For the record, at this point I was fully sick of looking at shiny ivory fabric and had started to pin trim on the dress.

First was trim on the petticoat (AKA the underskirt).  My original color scheme and ideas had all flown the coop so I decided to put a large black band along the front and trim with ivory ruffles top and bottom.  And I also added 3 big quilted ivory clubs between the rows of ruffles. I made the clubs by cutting the very ravel-y fabric with a soldering iron.  I blanket stitched two layers of fabric around a layer of batting and then blanket stitched them to the front of the petticoat.

The sleeves flounces were attached before I sewed them to the bodice.  Much easier that way.  I wanted the trim at the base of the sleeve to be like the trim on the bodice.  I tried about 5 iterations of black and ivory before I hit on the one I liked best.  I had bought some 2 1/2 inch ribbon from the same fabric (in 3 colors) so i used that for most of the trim.  I zigzagged some of the black fabric for a added contrast over the ivory.  All the bodice trim was box pleated.



And I also experimented with crocheting little clubs and tacking them to the flounces.  It was a great way to channel the original dress, although a gigantic pain because I had to make 36 of them.

For the stomacher, I wanted some color.  The Queen of Clubs was originally the only Queen which held a flower.  And the flower was often a thistle.  I picked some ashy pink ribbon with green accents and made flower that looked like thistles and then I tacked them onto the stomacher.  For much of this hand sewing I had an assist from our new kitten, Eggroll.  He's adorable and cuddly and proceeded to knock over a large birdhouse and break his own leg (not badly).  This is just a part of the reason the poor blog has been neglected.

I also sewed the stomacher to one side of the bodice and used hooks and thread loops to close the other.  super easy cheat!

Last, and definitely not least, I added trim down the front of the skirts.  I wanted to try painting fabric and had a clever idea to paint clubs on part of this trim.  Problem was, I had to pin all the trim to determine where the clubs needed to go, and I needed to make a stamp because free-hand painting was a non-starter, AND I needed to check my paints to see which worked best.  First I made a stamp out of thick craft foam backed with poster board and glued to a lipstick cover.  This allowed me to get the most pressure without wiggling the stamp (and was also conveniently to hand).  Then I did a test with the 3 paints I had available.  Not all of them were stable after they dried.

While the paint was drying I started pinning trim.  I'd like to suggest I just whipped right thru it, but I didn't.  All the pink ribbon had to be gathered down each long edge and ruches.  All the ivory and black trim needed to be box pleated as I pinned so I could figure out where the painted clubs would be.  And then I would just get sick of it and have to walk away.

Once it was pinned in place I could jam some paper towels behind the fabric and stamp the clubs.  I only screwed one of them up!  Yay me!

 I was happy with how it turned out but felt it needed some green in the bottom part of the trim (to go with the top).  At this point, Costume College was a couple of days away and I hadn't started packing so I made some more leaves and tacked them in.  No pictures were taken.  I also decided to literally scrap together a mask from craft foam, spray paint on stick on jewels.






For the gala, I finally got to try it all on.

The wig turned out great, makeup was subtle (not bad for a first time through), and Robin took a picture that utterly disguised my wrinkles.  Thank you Rob!

Also, a picture of how easy it was to sit down in this giant dress.  I am not crying.  I am laughing.  A lot.









The gala was amazing.  Lots of fun with lots of costumers.  Robin didn't get a picture of the group but she did get a picture with Lauren from Americian Duchess.   And I ripped a group picture from FB.

Mill Farm Robe a la Francaise plus an update and lots of pictures- L

Dear Pattern, can we talk?  You are not holding up your end of the bargain.  I'm glad you weren't terribly expensive because you have no pictures.  Just words.  And your words are nothing like the words I would choose to describe specific actions.  I'm thinking I need to re-watch this week's Downton Abbey because I spent the entire episode trying to figure out what you meant by pleat at AA and BB. That said, your shapes seem to work quite well once I change them for my bust.  And that is a separate rant.  There are no tutorials for doing a full bust adjustment with a shoulder pleat.  So here is a picture of my best guess.


Updates to this dress are now in a new post here

 And here is the first fitting.  Not half bad.  Too long in the waist and a few more tweaks.  I have already cut a new, improved version that I will fit very soon.  Due to the FBA at the shoulder, I have way too much width there.  Luckily, I can just cut it off.  That thing that looks like a cape coming off my shoulder is the body of the dart.  It's pretty darned big.




And in the mean time, I finished the beaded octopus for the nereid corset.  The colors look very dull in the picture.  I included a picture of the back.  And I did make two of them.  It has exhausted my desire to bead anything.

AND FINALLY
 I dragged my gimpy self out of bed and took WW1 Outlander pictures.  I was hoping for a foggy morning.  And hoping I could find my son's old kid sized golf club.  I had to settle for holding balls (yes, I went there) and a vintage tennis racquet.

Shifts and Centaurs - Lisa

I did a lot of things this week.  It feels good.  Robin and I went to the SF Opera sale.  I got all the stuff in the pictures plus some fabric for VERY attractive prices.  It's all wool and velvet and no item was more than $35.  Cloaks, skirts and coats.  (That red coat makes me think FLYING MONKEYS!)

I made my shift for both Regency and for my 18C court dress. Historically, they are NOT the same.  No one sees my underwear.  And I can always make a proper 18C shift later if I have the time (and the will).  I made a lot of mistakes.  And I didn't follow the important rule.  Once you start f-ing up, put it down.  I just kept going, and making mistakes.

I also made kid costume progress.  I made the centaur's hind end.  I made the lollipop foam base.  And I made a list of measurements because....  Someone is coming over to help today!  Cutting out fabric, batting, plastic net support, and gluing!

Here's a picture parade of progress:

 Shift - I used a free online pattern (basic shift).  I used some amazing sheer cotton lawn.  This meant I actually had to flat fell the seams for structural support.  I hand sewed eyelets.  I accidentally cut the neckline too big in the back and had to patch it.

The neckline is just rolled with a cord running thru.  Now I can put on all the 18C underthings so I can cut a petticoat.  Just a simple under-petticoat that goes over the pocket hoops.  And then, gulp, I have to figure out the dress.  I can also finish the Regency stays.

I also made the centaur.  It required patience.  And glue.  Wheels to legs.  Legs to heavy plastic mesh body.  Zip ties.  Foam.  More glue.  More waiting.  Cover in batting.  Wrap and tack fun fur.

Seems so simple when I type it....
Oh, and stuff a janky old wig into the foam buttocks to serve as a tail.  Most of the structure was stuff I found in the group's storage unit.  And the wig.  Hurray for scrounging.  And I even remembered to take pictures.  During the waiting, I cut and glued a big round foam lollipop (yes, another costume).

Today I plan to cut and glue the fabric for the Jar of Mayo, Corndog, Lollipop, Slice of Cake.

These are just fabric backed with a couple layers of batting sandwiching a layer of heavy nylon netting.  Twill tape and plastic tubing are the support.  Light weight and allow these kids to go to the bathroom easily.  Well, fairly easily.

There is another large circle glued over, and a face hole cut at the dot

HIND END DONE.
Except for hooves.

A funny thing happened... Corset - L

Regency stays outside

I'm at 'final' versions of both the Regency and 18C stays.  Robin and I had a quick sewing day yesterday to do fittings.  I was confident that my Regency stays were in good shape.  But NOOOOO.  We couldn't get the underbust to fit snuggly.  Problem was that my boobs and my belly were pushing out enough to make the busk look like this '/' and it wasn't providing support and separation.  I tried cutting the busk but (not unexpected, really) it just created a cantilevered shelf with no support.  So we resorted to a stay tape.  I have not seen this ANYWHERE, but it worked like a charm.  Sorry no pictures. No chemise yet.  No over-share on the interwebs.

Regency stays inside with stay tape.

Here's what it looks like on the inside.  The tape secures the busk agains my solar plexus and holds everything in roughly the proper position.  Since I just used cheap twill tape, I plan to double it so it doesn't stretch, and close it with something really strong.  I also need to trim the center front about 3/4 of an inch.  After that, I'll sew my eyelets so Robin can get a good pull and we can do the final final fit.  It's pretty obvious that I won't have quite the lifted bust that is proper for that era, but my chest is really too big to do that anyway.  It is NOT flattering at all.                                                      

Regency stays inside (before tape)

18C stays, boning channels

I was a lot less confident about my 18C stays.  If you recall, I used the Butterick Wearing History pattern and found it bewilderingly huge.  And this is after measuring me vs the actual pattern piece, and cutting the sides and back a size smaller than I thought would work.  I ended up re-cutting the front 3 times and trimming about 1.5 inches off each side.  That many changes, on the fly, is usually a good sign of trouble.  Also, I couldn't get the boning channels to look like the pattern.  So I just made them up - based roughly on what I saw in Corsets and Crins.  for the outside, I used a white floral on a black background that reminds me of 18th century prints but is not accurate.  I kinda wanna bind it in rose pink.  Anyway, I put it on and Robin pinned it and all the pins bent in half and flew out.

18C stays outside

Who knew fitting stays required safety glasses?  After upgrading to heavy duty pins and Robin physically holding it shut in back, we discovered that it fit like a dream.  I'm a happy, happy corseteer! Though I still need to cut at least an inch off the center back.

Robin also fit her Regency stays.  And they look beautiful.  She is using an antique gold silk dupioni as her fashion fabric and it looks amazing.

Both of us got immeasurable help from reading the Regency Fitting Tips from Jennifer Rosbrugh at Historical Sewing.  Well worth the money for those of use who are not lithe and willowy (read 'have boobs and hips' so not just chubby).

I am also working on costumes for the kids improve group again.  These little monkeys slay me.  Centaurs, giant vegetables (and evil giant vegetables at that), walking slices of cake and innumerable animals.....

And I'm ALSO doing a cosplay for my son.  My daughter is sewing along to cosplay with him.  They are doing Attack on Titan and being Eren and Annie. Here is a screen shot of what the costumes generally look like.

I have the jacket made.  Roughly drafted from a blouse pattern with the collar and lapels expanded.  I can't finish it until my daughter catches up so that our collars and lapels will look comparable.

In the mean time I'm painting the emblem patches.  It is much more difficult than I expected.  The fabric paint doesn't provide consistent coverage.  I may do them over with slightly watered down paint and more layers.  (Ugh).





Finally, I actually finished the Noro yarn scarf.  I blocked it and added fringe made from cotton sateen embroidery yarn and some glass beads edged with copper.  half the beads are dark blue and the other half are turquoise.
Yay for finishing a project.

Call to arms! (or fingers) - what's coming up ahead

With the Renaissance behind us, we can settle down and look at what we want to do for the next year.
Yes, we did this earlier in the year, but we changed our collective mind.  In order of interesting-ness, here is what we have planned:

We joined the Court Gown Project at Demode Couture.  We are a little scared.  A lot of the other participants are leaps and bounds above us in skill and knowledge.

We decided to target fantasy/masquerade dresses inspired by playing cards.  Our inspiration dresses are purely that... Inspiration.  Color, and detail (and shape in Lisa's case) will all be modified.   Robin will be the (non-Alice)  Queen of Hearts and is using this dress as her inspiration:

Lisa will be the Queen of Clubs.  She chose a picture from a Victorian masquerade idea so she will need to make it into a Court gown.  Since green was the color of clubs (in France a longish time ago) she picked a soft green poly/silk taffeta. And since the Queen of Clubs was also the flower queen (often thistle) she is sneaking peaks at Mme de Pompadour who wore lots of flower embellishment.

We are thinking about making paper wigs.  OK, Robin is definitely making a paper wig.  Lisa is thinking about it.

Lisa is drafting patterns for pocket hoops from Corsets and Crinolines and we're looking at dress and underthings patterns.
Target completion:  Costume College 2014

ALSO, we plan to make Regency dresses, from the underthings out.  And men's clothes to go with them because of the Tall Ships Adventure.  Costume required.  We are looking at this silhouette because we think the lower, more fitted waist will be more flattering.  We will also make a spencer or pelisse.

All super easy.  We'll just whip these out without a hitch.




But before we can even start, there are just a few things left to do to clear the decks:

Robin:  Finish the trim on her lavender Dickens dress, and finish the trim on her Renaissance dress (which may be sidelined due to being utterly sick of it by now).  She also needs to finish making her Pirates of the Caribooban outfit for Halloween.


Lisa:  just spent a week making pirate garb for the Young Actors Haunted House which raises money and happens during the HMB pumpkin festival.  She made 5 vests, 5 sashes, 4 headscarves, 4 distressed pair of pants....  nevermind, she doesn't even want to TALK about pirates right now...
Then she needs to make a costume for the offspring

because it's Halloween.  She will be making Conner Kenway from Assassin's Creed.
She will be drafting the coat pattern.  She has NO IDEA how she will do this.  Especially since her model is a 12 year old boy who cannot stand still.

Once this is done Lisa will make the linen lounge pants from the Decades of Style pattern.  Then start on the long postponed AntEater dress and her TV riding habit.