I'm back for reals, with pictures - Lisa

 Its been a very long 6 months.  We had an exciting adventure to China and Mongolia.  We photographed eagle hunters (yes, just like the movie).  We both got hurt.  Robin jacked her knee hiking on the Great Wall of China.  It was a shockingly hard hike for us.  After we were safely home, I slipped on fabric on my hardwood floor.  Shattered my femur.  This happened on 10-22.  Today is the first day I've been able to sit in my desk chair for longer than 20 minutes.  During the 3 months that I was required to lay around in bed, I did a lot of knitting and tried some embroidery.

Here are fun pictures since I've been away for, well, forever:
Eagle and Eagle Hunter, phone pics only so resolution is meh...

My leg both broken and bolted together.


The dreaded peri-prosthetic fracture.

In sympathy, my cat broke his femur head and had to have it removed.

I am confident I will set off alarms in every airport, everywhere.






And now, back to business.  I said I knitted and made many things.  Most of them twice due to mistakes.  I made a shawl from cashmere, camel and yak yarn that I got in Mongolia.  I also embroidered an 18c pocket.  I had lots of bright colors that belonged to my grandmother and I used them all.  I call it the 'clown vomit pocket'.  I got to the end of Netflix.
In no particular order:

shawl and mitts from Mongol yarn

Hat from leftovers

cowl from 10 year old yarn

large throw that the cats LOVE

The mitts were a big hit.  I made a pair for Robin and for my niece. And did my first knit-a-long.
The Tess D'Ubervilles shawl or Sontag, inspired by Outlander.  I added a knitted lace edge because why not?  Its not like I was going anywhere.

had to use short rows

my walker is showing!

And finally, the clown vomit pocket plus BONUS TIARA.  Exactly what you buy online when you're laying around taking oxycontin and knitting.

no words describe the horror

giant tiara modeled by Ed the cat

That's all for this post.  I'll be back, literally, in about 10 minutes with my first garment for the HSM.

Single fabric challenge - Shear Madness - Lisa

Bluebird

When Laura announced a single fabric challenge on the      Shear Madness FB page, I was all in.  The fabric is cotton   with a floral/vine print and lots of birds.  All in shades of blue and white.  By 'single fabric' the costume is supposed to be made with the chosen fabric as the focus.  I came back from Costume College with a strong desire to make a jacket/curacao/casaquin targeting the 1780's (which I'm not sure I did, it might be earlier).  I'm not terribly worried about historical accuracy and the fabric 'reads' 18C but clearly is not.  In addition, during our spring trip to Morocco, I suffered a little anxiety on a camel that enjoyed his liberty a little too much.  We took to yelling 'liberte' every time he pulled loose from the line, with me on his back.  Happily, he never took off across the desert.  So for me it's all  about French Revolution and freedom seeking camels from a (previously) French speaking country, and birds.  I'm a part time birder.

See the faded birds in the center...print matching the bodice

Everything but the stays had to be made.  The jacket is the focus, and is made from the challenge fabric, plus a little of the solid blue left over from my Neried skirt.

aww, look...they're kissing!

Jacket.  I started with the Mill Farm pattern that I used for Queen of Clubs.  I made a muslin and started drawing lines where I thought the zone front should go.  The I cut along the lines.  Thing is, this pattern is designed with a stomacher and I wanted to make it meet in the middle so this was a little more complicated than I expected.  I might have yelled 'I don't know what I'm doing' on a variety of occasions, and it took me longer than I expected.  I didn't have enough fabric to make mistakes.  The print is VERY directional and I wanted the birds to be facing each other front and back. Each piece was cut individually. I was worried about doing the Anglais pleating in the back because I didn't have Robin to help, but it wasn't that bad.  Steaming as I went really helped set the curved folds. I stitched them in place with a running stitch.  I left the center back piece long as a sort of 'swallowtail'.   Fitting the side back was the hardest part because I was in stays, and I'd put the sleeves in backwards.  I really, really didn't want to fix that, you know, when you're tired of looking at the same thing and are ready to be DONE.  But I did.  
                                           
Finally, I decided to add a faux belt in front because I like the look of the dress at left.  I even made my red ribbon striped by sewing some thin white ribbon over it.  

 
And I left a little gap where the print meets the blue at the center front so I could pull my fichu through.  Which I then forgot to do in all the pictures

pull fichu through here, unless you forget

finished skirt and shoes

Petticoat and petticoat - because we have to call them the same thing?  Both were made using tutorials from The Fashionable Past (Koshka)  The under petticoat was made from old sheets and really should be remade since it's too limp.  The skirt is white cotton voile with a big ruffle.  I don't have any construction photos available.  Oops.  I also made a rump pad.  It's a largish stuffed rectangle that ties around my waist.  I may remake that too since I'm not super happy with the shape.  Or not, because I'm not sure how often I will need it.

Kerchief/fichu- based on 10 minutes of research, typically 36 in square.  Quick math gives a hypotenuse of 51 inches.  Just about perfect unless you're rather tall with a large chest.  Quick estimate with a measuring tape yields 55 inches, plus seam allowance = 56.  Reverse the math, 39 1/2 inches on each side.  I used some beautiful sheer cotton voile and hand hemmed it.  Hand hems are much softer and more fluid than a machine seam.  Also much, much slower.  Now that I have this, I will be less concerned about my necklines.  I can make them lower and not worry about massive cleavage since I can cover it up.


The hat.  It's made 

from an ugly party sombrero that I deconstructed and sewed back together in the shape I wanted.  Then I spray painted it blue.


I made the birdcage from some wired burlap stuff on sale at Michael's.  I cut it, shaped it and set it with white glue. I cut out a square for the cage door, and used scraps to MAKE a cage door which I tacked on. Then I spray painted it gold.

The bird was the challenge.  I wanted a bluebird, that was flying free from the cage.  And I assumed that one could simply buy a bluebird with outstretched wings.  But NOOO.
So I got a wingless bluebird and a made wings.  

 Here is the sad little wingless bird with the wings in progress.  I made craft foam wing shapes and glued a wire on the leading edge so I could shape them a little.  Then I used a variety of blue, or blueish feathers and started gluing them down.  I tried to use white glue because it's not as heavy as hot glue.  I gave up pretty quickly.

 Gluing feathers was...interesting?  My kitten succeeded in running off with one of the wings but I caught him before too much damage was done.  Once everything was glued, I trimmed them into wing shapes.

Finally, I glued them to the sides of the bird. They only fell off twice.  And I'm only a little bit bothered that they aren't anything like actual bird wings....

I'm actually really happy with my bird.  I got it done, attached it to the cage and the beak fell off.  Oh happy, happy glue.







The final parts of the hat are the banner and the cockade.

The banner is blue grosgrain with wire sewn in.  I painted 'Liberte' on both sides and added gentle folds to make it 'float'.  This is the shout out to my charming Moroccan camel.

The cockade was a last minute addition.  I needed something to echo the red in the belt and I had taken a class in the spring on making cockades.  (A class from Candice Kling who is the most amazing ribbon worker, bar none)  This red cockade was one of my trials from the class.

And, finally, after a bit more glue and wire, some ruffles and ribbon, I got it done.  I tilted the cage because I will tilt the hat when I wear it.

Here is the final dress.  Pictures taken at sunset with horrid light, by a man who cannot figure how to work my camera.  I needed to wait for the rain to stop, and for my hair to dry so timing was awful.  and I made him take a lot of pictures and almost none of them are actually, totally in focus.  And my secret and very fun shoes don't show (just a little in the skirt picture).  They're red and white stripe Moroccan mules made from camel leather.   

Shifts and Centaurs - Lisa

I did a lot of things this week.  It feels good.  Robin and I went to the SF Opera sale.  I got all the stuff in the pictures plus some fabric for VERY attractive prices.  It's all wool and velvet and no item was more than $35.  Cloaks, skirts and coats.  (That red coat makes me think FLYING MONKEYS!)

I made my shift for both Regency and for my 18C court dress. Historically, they are NOT the same.  No one sees my underwear.  And I can always make a proper 18C shift later if I have the time (and the will).  I made a lot of mistakes.  And I didn't follow the important rule.  Once you start f-ing up, put it down.  I just kept going, and making mistakes.

I also made kid costume progress.  I made the centaur's hind end.  I made the lollipop foam base.  And I made a list of measurements because....  Someone is coming over to help today!  Cutting out fabric, batting, plastic net support, and gluing!

Here's a picture parade of progress:

 Shift - I used a free online pattern (basic shift).  I used some amazing sheer cotton lawn.  This meant I actually had to flat fell the seams for structural support.  I hand sewed eyelets.  I accidentally cut the neckline too big in the back and had to patch it.

The neckline is just rolled with a cord running thru.  Now I can put on all the 18C underthings so I can cut a petticoat.  Just a simple under-petticoat that goes over the pocket hoops.  And then, gulp, I have to figure out the dress.  I can also finish the Regency stays.

I also made the centaur.  It required patience.  And glue.  Wheels to legs.  Legs to heavy plastic mesh body.  Zip ties.  Foam.  More glue.  More waiting.  Cover in batting.  Wrap and tack fun fur.

Seems so simple when I type it....
Oh, and stuff a janky old wig into the foam buttocks to serve as a tail.  Most of the structure was stuff I found in the group's storage unit.  And the wig.  Hurray for scrounging.  And I even remembered to take pictures.  During the waiting, I cut and glued a big round foam lollipop (yes, another costume).

Today I plan to cut and glue the fabric for the Jar of Mayo, Corndog, Lollipop, Slice of Cake.

These are just fabric backed with a couple layers of batting sandwiching a layer of heavy nylon netting.  Twill tape and plastic tubing are the support.  Light weight and allow these kids to go to the bathroom easily.  Well, fairly easily.

There is another large circle glued over, and a face hole cut at the dot

HIND END DONE.
Except for hooves.

Sorry I forgot you blog! - Lisa

Working hard and not taking pictures.  Bad blogger.  Bad.  Yesterday, Robin and I went to the SF Opera costume sale.  We got a lot of stuff, like cloaks and coats and skirts.  They each cost less than the fabric they were made of so major alterations or complete rebuilds are completely logical.  Maybe I can take pictures today.  Also, I've been powering thru costumes for the play and adding bias binding on my 18c stays.  I thought they would be pretty with light pink binding.  Alas, I am lazy and my JoAnnes only had bubble gum pink.  And this is, after all, underwear.  I hand sewed the bias binding.  it is just too difficult to get the curves right when I machine sew.  And now I have met my goal of posting a picture of stays with ridiculously large pocket hoops.  I still need to attach the hoops to the twill tape band.  I think this corset pattern will work nicely for armor.

And then the kids.  I decided to make the easier costumes first.  That means cleaning, repairing and altering existing costumes.  And then I bought/ordered fabric and all the other stuff I knew I'd need that I couldn't scrounge from the costume storage.   Pictures are only half of what I did.

four cats, one with wing markings on her side

Two dogs and a rabbit

a few robes and lab coats

A bunch of kids wanted to wear wizard robes.  Some of them are heros and some are bad guys.  I measured their shoulders and the length, but forgot to measure their arm length.  Had to estimate from internet growth charts.  Same thing with the cats and dogs.  Luckily for me, we had one dog costume already, along with a rabbit, monkey, various lab coats,  safety vests, and a marching band jacket.  Next I need to make food costumes, a centaur, and a dress made from candy wrappers.  The play is called
  "Bacon - The Dumbest Day in San Francisco"
Mad scientists attempt to control ALL the bacon.  There are battles between heros and villains, and giant animals and giant food items.  There is a news crew reporting on the action during the entire play.
I think this means that the audience (parents) may actually know what's going on this year.

A funny thing happened... Corset - L

Regency stays outside

I'm at 'final' versions of both the Regency and 18C stays.  Robin and I had a quick sewing day yesterday to do fittings.  I was confident that my Regency stays were in good shape.  But NOOOOO.  We couldn't get the underbust to fit snuggly.  Problem was that my boobs and my belly were pushing out enough to make the busk look like this '/' and it wasn't providing support and separation.  I tried cutting the busk but (not unexpected, really) it just created a cantilevered shelf with no support.  So we resorted to a stay tape.  I have not seen this ANYWHERE, but it worked like a charm.  Sorry no pictures. No chemise yet.  No over-share on the interwebs.

Regency stays inside with stay tape.

Here's what it looks like on the inside.  The tape secures the busk agains my solar plexus and holds everything in roughly the proper position.  Since I just used cheap twill tape, I plan to double it so it doesn't stretch, and close it with something really strong.  I also need to trim the center front about 3/4 of an inch.  After that, I'll sew my eyelets so Robin can get a good pull and we can do the final final fit.  It's pretty obvious that I won't have quite the lifted bust that is proper for that era, but my chest is really too big to do that anyway.  It is NOT flattering at all.                                                      

Regency stays inside (before tape)

18C stays, boning channels

I was a lot less confident about my 18C stays.  If you recall, I used the Butterick Wearing History pattern and found it bewilderingly huge.  And this is after measuring me vs the actual pattern piece, and cutting the sides and back a size smaller than I thought would work.  I ended up re-cutting the front 3 times and trimming about 1.5 inches off each side.  That many changes, on the fly, is usually a good sign of trouble.  Also, I couldn't get the boning channels to look like the pattern.  So I just made them up - based roughly on what I saw in Corsets and Crins.  for the outside, I used a white floral on a black background that reminds me of 18th century prints but is not accurate.  I kinda wanna bind it in rose pink.  Anyway, I put it on and Robin pinned it and all the pins bent in half and flew out.

18C stays outside

Who knew fitting stays required safety glasses?  After upgrading to heavy duty pins and Robin physically holding it shut in back, we discovered that it fit like a dream.  I'm a happy, happy corseteer! Though I still need to cut at least an inch off the center back.

Robin also fit her Regency stays.  And they look beautiful.  She is using an antique gold silk dupioni as her fashion fabric and it looks amazing.

Both of us got immeasurable help from reading the Regency Fitting Tips from Jennifer Rosbrugh at Historical Sewing.  Well worth the money for those of use who are not lithe and willowy (read 'have boobs and hips' so not just chubby).

I am also working on costumes for the kids improve group again.  These little monkeys slay me.  Centaurs, giant vegetables (and evil giant vegetables at that), walking slices of cake and innumerable animals.....

And I'm ALSO doing a cosplay for my son.  My daughter is sewing along to cosplay with him.  They are doing Attack on Titan and being Eren and Annie. Here is a screen shot of what the costumes generally look like.

I have the jacket made.  Roughly drafted from a blouse pattern with the collar and lapels expanded.  I can't finish it until my daughter catches up so that our collars and lapels will look comparable.

In the mean time I'm painting the emblem patches.  It is much more difficult than I expected.  The fabric paint doesn't provide consistent coverage.  I may do them over with slightly watered down paint and more layers.  (Ugh).





Finally, I actually finished the Noro yarn scarf.  I blocked it and added fringe made from cotton sateen embroidery yarn and some glass beads edged with copper.  half the beads are dark blue and the other half are turquoise.
Yay for finishing a project.