|This blouse, in white (and not shiny)|
|Girl in the Plaid Skirt.|
I have been informed, by more than one person, that this will be the most obscure costume EVER. No one will get it. La la la la....not listening. This is one of those costumes I'm making because I just really want to make it.
I burned some stash yarn I had laying around. I buy yarn because I like it and it's on sale and never have plans to make anything with it. This is a much lighter weight yarn than the patterns called for but the result is soft and not warm. Which is really good because here on the California coast I rarely get cold.
Initially I wanted to make a hobble skirt, but they were long out of fashion during the beginning of WW1. And hobble skirts and pleats sounds pretty nightmarish. From 1915 to 1918 skirts tended to be mid calf and full near the hem. I spent hours looking at plaid fabrics online. There were lovely wools that would break the bank (or at least destroy my travel budget). There were decent medium weight cotton options but I didn't like the colors. And there there was heavy cotton flannel. Possibly the worst fabric choice I could make, but exactly the plaid I wanted. So I picked the wrong fabric!
Because of the thickness, I had to forego a hem in order to get the pleating right. Luckily the fabric is heavy and the selvedge wasn't weird. Then I spent hours and two boxes of pins pleating it. I left a smooth panel in front and a smaller smooth panel in back. All the pleats fold toward the back. I used my widest hip measurement while sitting for the skirt width. And then I vinegar pressed the pleats.
Most every blouse I looked at for this period has a sort of sailor collar. But I don't want a sailor collar. I also don't want a high closed collar because they are kind of claustrophobic. I decided on a high, two piece collar and I would add a button in jabot. I use this Kwik Sew pattern a lot. It lies. It is not quick. Two part collar, yoke, and lots of topstitching. I use it for it's parts because then I don't have to draft them. This time, I added bust fullness at the shoulder and made pleats which requires more math than it seems like it should. I also added about half an inch to the collar stand and the collar. I made the sleeves longer and fuller and made up a cuff. To control the fulness at the waist, I made top-stitched inverted box pleats in the front and back. This means my shirt won't have ugly bunching and re-arranging while I'm wearing it.
|front waist box pleats|
|top of nearly finished blouse|
I added buttons to match on the collar stand so I could button it in, or use the jabot on other blouses in the future. The rest of this blouse was buttonholes and buttons. Interminable. But also pretty much exactly what I wanted.
Purse/Sporran - My final accessory! I made a purse with a chain handle OR the handle can live inside and there are belt loops on the back. I can hang it from a belt like a sporran. I used very cheap fun fur that I had left over from a kid's costume. I ran uneven gathering up the back of the fabric to mimic sewn pelts. On close examination it looks like cheap fun fur. From a distance it's not that bad. Really.
You may be asking 'but where's the vest?' because the Outlander guys wear a lot of waistcoats. I made one. I didn't like it at all. It didn't seems to fit with the WW1 look of the outfit and it didn't resonate with the look of the guys in the TV show. The vest is on an extended time out.
|All 19-teens, out for a walk|
|Golf balls 'cause Scotland!|
|I will kill at tennis|
The pose in these blouse pictures is deviously designed to hide the fact that I'd just rolled outta bed, slapped on some eye make-up and was trying to hide a hangover. I really can't drink. Be kind.