Wednesday, February 12, 2014

A funny thing happened... Corset - L

Regency stays outside

I'm at 'final' versions of both the Regency and 18C stays.  Robin and I had a quick sewing day yesterday to do fittings.  I was confident that my Regency stays were in good shape.  But NOOOOO.  We couldn't get the underbust to fit snuggly.  Problem was that my boobs and my belly were pushing out enough to make the busk look like this '/' and it wasn't providing support and separation.  I tried cutting the busk but (not unexpected, really) it just created a cantilevered shelf with no support.  So we resorted to a stay tape.  I have not seen this ANYWHERE, but it worked like a charm.  Sorry no pictures. No chemise yet.  No over-share on the interwebs.
Regency stays inside with stay tape.

Here's what it looks like on the inside.  The tape secures the busk agains my solar plexus and holds everything in roughly the proper position.  Since I just used cheap twill tape, I plan to double it so it doesn't stretch, and close it with something really strong.  I also need to trim the center front about 3/4 of an inch.  After that, I'll sew my eyelets so Robin can get a good pull and we can do the final final fit.  It's pretty obvious that I won't have quite the lifted bust that is proper for that era, but my chest is really too big to do that anyway.  It is NOT flattering at all.                                                      
Regency stays inside (before tape)
18C stays, boning channels
I was a lot less confident about my 18C stays.  If you recall, I used the Butterick Wearing History pattern and found it bewilderingly huge.  And this is after measuring me vs the actual pattern piece, and cutting the sides and back a size smaller than I thought would work.  I ended up re-cutting the front 3 times and trimming about 1.5 inches off each side.  That many changes, on the fly, is usually a good sign of trouble.  Also, I couldn't get the boning channels to look like the pattern.  So I just made them up - based roughly on what I saw in Corsets and Crins.  for the outside, I used a white floral on a black background that reminds me of 18th century prints but is not accurate.  I kinda wanna bind it in rose pink.  Anyway, I put it on and Robin pinned it and all the pins bent in half and flew out.
18C stays outside

Who knew fitting stays required safety glasses?  After upgrading to heavy duty pins and Robin physically holding it shut in back, we discovered that it fit like a dream.  I'm a happy, happy corseteer! Though I still need to cut at least an inch off the center back.

Robin also fit her Regency stays.  And they look beautiful.  She is using an antique gold silk dupioni as her fashion fabric and it looks amazing.

Both of us got immeasurable help from reading the Regency Fitting Tips from Jennifer Rosbrugh at Historical Sewing.  Well worth the money for those of use who are not lithe and willowy (read 'have boobs and hips' so not just chubby).

I am also working on costumes for the kids improve group again.  These little monkeys slay me.  Centaurs, giant vegetables (and evil giant vegetables at that), walking slices of cake and innumerable animals.....

And I'm ALSO doing a cosplay for my son.  My daughter is sewing along to cosplay with him.  They are doing Attack on Titan and being Eren and Annie. Here is a screen shot of what the costumes generally look like.
I have the jacket made.  Roughly drafted from a blouse pattern with the collar and lapels expanded.  I can't finish it until my daughter catches up so that our collars and lapels will look comparable.

In the mean time I'm painting the emblem patches.  It is much more difficult than I expected.  The fabric paint doesn't provide consistent coverage.  I may do them over with slightly watered down paint and more layers.  (Ugh).

Finally, I actually finished the Noro yarn scarf.  I blocked it and added fringe made from cotton sateen embroidery yarn and some glass beads edged with copper.  half the beads are dark blue and the other half are turquoise.
Yay for finishing a project.