Friday, May 11, 2012

VPLL 1912 0189 Mantle - Part 2 - L

 Picking up where I left off...(see my previous post on this), I'm ready to add the trim to the shell.  The pattern suggests 10 yards of 2 3/4 inch bias strips.  I cut 7 but got impatient and decided to sew some on before I cut the rest.  I'm sure I'll be kicking myself later when I'm nearly done and I have to go cut and gather more bias strips.

The pattern doesn't specifically call for any lining, much less bag lining.  Others have done it though, and I love how it looks so I'm going to pile on the bag lining band wagon.  I cut the strips and sewed them together (opted out of continuous strip bias as it takes me longer to do that).  Then I gather stitched them, only stitching one 30 inch strip at a time.  This way the gather lines don't break or tangle. Then I start gathering (and gathering and gathering).

After the trim strips were gathered I  pinned the gathered strip to the shell, right sides together along the top of the trim line.   I want to stitch exactly 2 3/8 inches from the edge of the shell.  This way, when I fold the trim over, the bottom edge of the trim will be even with the bottom edge of the shell and I will have a 3/8 seam allowance along with a two inch trim.
  Then I pull the lining over the shell, right sides together, and pin all three layers together.  The gathered trim is sandwiched between the shell and the lining.   Please note, I have opted to NOT add any padding in the trim.  Personal preference.  I also chose to ignore the instructions to create a tube out of the trim and then sew it down.  The instructions call for 10 yards of trim.  I used 14.
Here's a finished sleeve waiting to be pressed.  I'm trimming each sleeve and sewing in the lining.  Once I've turned and pressed them, I can sew up the center back seam of the shell.  I will also sew the top and bottom 3 inches of the center back of the lining.  This leaves a nice gap for reversing the garment inside out to do the edge trim.  

But before I do start closing the center back, I have a brainiac idea!  I want to add a welt pocket.  

I was far too excited to measure or stitch carefully.  I know my seam lines are not straight.  But they're mostly straight and I can fudge a little with a hot iron.  Once I make the two welts with the red, I'll have a pocket bag with red on the shell side and polka dots on the lining side.  See how cute?

Once I got all the trim on I hand tacked it to the trim seam allowance.  That way my trim won't have a tendency to roll out or sag,  This pattern seems simple, but bias trim sewn to a bias cut edge is tricky work,  I had to fight the tendency of the edges to stretch while I pinned and sewed.  Even with stay stitching.

Here is the final garment (ignore the white string hanging off my elbow!  I was working on a different muslin while we took these pictures) And a celebratory glass of wine!

Pattern Review Checklist:
  1.  Pattern Description - Ladies Spring Mantle, 0189
  2.  Pattern Sizing - Based on pattern measurements, seems true to size
  3.  Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing  it? YES!
  4. Were the instructions easy to follow?  Recommend pictures for the gusset, and I found the trim 'tube' confusing
  5. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I love the versatility of this pattern
  6. Fabric Used - Shell is hopsack linen, lining and pocket are cotton
  7. Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added a bust dart when I sized up the pattern, and  a small dart at the neck.  I also added a welt pocket in the lining.
  8. Would you recommend this pattern to others?  Absolutely
  9. Conclusion - I think I'll make this pattern again.
VPLL Checklist
  1.  Pattern Name - Ladies Spring Mantle, 0189
  2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Advance, Intermediate, Beginner - 'advanced' beginner
  3. Pattern Rating: 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why?  I rate this a '5' since it is versatile and fairly easy given patience, and willingness to be detailed.
  4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why?  Bias trim sewn to a bias edge makes this pattern a bit too difficult for a beginner who is not accustomed to the potential for stretch.
  5. Were the instructions easy to follow? If not, what needs to be changed? I would add pictures to the gusset instructions, and clarify the 'trim tube'.  Also, I'd recommend stay stitching in the instructions.
  6. How was the fit/sizing?  Did it correspond to what you thought?  I made major size changes so N.A.
  7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations?  As above, I made major size alterations.  I also added a darts for the larger size, and a welt pocket because I thought it would be cute.
  8. Other notes:  I made photo and written notes of all my changes in the two blog posts.