tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9816054987174841132024-03-14T00:00:43.926-07:00Idle Hands...The Ms-Fits' WorkshopA couple of grown-ups who play dress-up (or at least make things to dress up in).
Historically inspired, fantasy, cosplay and vintage; we make whatever inspires us. Robin is lean and elegant, a thoughtful perfectionist. Lisa prefers to make rather than to wear, finding inspiration in the oddest places. We are retired and sew whenever we aren't traveling.Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.comBlogger257125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-3429421619679033382017-03-02T17:27:00.001-08:002017-03-02T17:27:21.707-08:00HSM Challenge 2 - Remake, Reuse - Lisa<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">skirt over large false rump</td></tr>
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18th Century skirt based on the American Duchess Simplicity pattern 8161. I say based because I didn't actually use the pattern. I just measured how big the rectangles were that comprised the skirt.<br />
I bought a skirt at the SF Opera Sale (years ago) that was distinctly too small around the waist but had a ton of fabric in a very nice weathered brown wool. It's been sitting in a box ever since. <br />
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The Challenge is Re-make, Re-use, Re-fashion. I took the waistband off the skirt and un-pleated it to discover 3 panels of 60" wool. I only needed 2 for the 18c skirt. I ripped the side seams down about 10 inches and re-pleated each panel to fit my waist. The I needed to hang it over my false rump and raise the front panel to make the hem level. Seriously, that was the hardest part. Then, simply finish the waist with some spare cotton in the ugliest gold ever seen and add ties. I can wear the ugly picket underneath and giggle softly to myself while I wear it.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EGiRZOx-jcA/WLjCS461ggI/AAAAAAAAEL8/sKhot0FEsHA7p9rQ8DOH7_1G1kfq--eKQCEw/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EGiRZOx-jcA/WLjCS461ggI/AAAAAAAAEL8/sKhot0FEsHA7p9rQ8DOH7_1G1kfq--eKQCEw/s320/FullSizeRender.jpg" width="172" /></a>If I ever have someplace to wear it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">front panel raised for a level hem</td></tr>
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Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-39213494971229523192017-03-02T17:02:00.000-08:002017-03-02T17:03:30.342-08:00I'm back for reals, with pictures - Lisa<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Its been a very long 6 months. We had an exciting adventure to China and Mongolia. We photographed eagle hunters (yes, just like the movie). We both got hurt. Robin jacked her knee hiking on the Great Wall of China. It was a shockingly hard hike for us. After we were safely home, I slipped on fabric on my hardwood floor. Shattered my femur. This happened on 10-22. Today is the first day I've been able to sit in my desk chair for longer than 20 minutes. During the 3 months that I was required to lay around in bed, I did a lot of knitting and tried some embroidery.<br />
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Here are fun pictures since I've been away for, well, forever:<br />
Eagle and Eagle Hunter, phone pics only so resolution is meh...<br />
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My leg both broken and bolted together.<br />
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The dreaded peri-prosthetic fracture.<br />
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In sympathy, my cat broke his femur head and had to have it removed. <br />
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I am confident I will set off alarms in every airport, everywhere.<br />
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And now, back to business. I said I knitted and made many things. Most of them twice due to mistakes. I made a shawl from cashmere, camel and yak yarn that I got in Mongolia. I also embroidered an 18c pocket. I had lots of bright colors that belonged to my grandmother and I used them all. I call it the 'clown vomit pocket'. I got to the end of Netflix.<br />
In no particular order:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">shawl and mitts from Mongol yarn</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hat from leftovers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cowl from 10 year old yarn</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">large throw that the cats LOVE<br />
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The mitts were a big hit. I made a pair for Robin and for my niece. And did my first knit-a-long.<br />
The Tess D'Ubervilles shawl or Sontag, inspired by Outlander. I added a knitted lace edge because why not? Its not like I was going anywhere.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">had to use short rows</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my walker is showing!</td></tr>
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And finally, the clown vomit pocket plus BONUS TIARA. Exactly what you buy online when you're laying around taking oxycontin and knitting.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">no words describe the horror</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">giant tiara modeled by Ed the cat</td></tr>
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That's all for this post. I'll be back, literally, in about 10 minutes with my first garment for the HSM.<br />
<br />Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-83068515527160209592016-11-23T16:58:00.001-08:002016-11-23T16:58:07.511-08:00Costume College Corset Class<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I love taking corset classes because every time I do, I learn something. Everyone has a different method or a new insight or, sometimes, just a plain easier way to do something. This is the corset that I made at Costume College. It is only one layer of coutil and does not have the quantity of bones that I have seen used in previous corset classes. This class was given by Barbara Muran. She had a couple of amazing corsets on display and walked us through this hands on class. <br />
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Next up - the 3-in-1 petticoat.Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-28353385316613620562016-11-20T11:03:00.001-08:002016-11-20T11:03:35.970-08:001840s Cap or Why Do They Wear Diapers on Their Heads???<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sn6x2lMS7L8/WDHtXb_0wMI/AAAAAAAAEJo/zjZk6deAXKk3TRtw4QFZB1ign4BV_1GfACLcB/s1600/IMG_1659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sn6x2lMS7L8/WDHtXb_0wMI/AAAAAAAAEJo/zjZk6deAXKk3TRtw4QFZB1ign4BV_1GfACLcB/s640/IMG_1659.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I want to make an 1840s day dress - nothing fancy, just a plain everyday dress to wear at Dickens Faire or some of the other Gold Rush Era events in my area. However, I am many pounds heavier than I'd like to be and want to get back to the size of my other costumes (because I am lazy and don't want to remake them!). I have the fabric, I have the pattern. What to do? Sew all the accessories first! That's the ticket!</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pbBwCPweUEg/WDHuwbr-a0I/AAAAAAAAEJs/w4RJwa8jxlEwAFsysIh7LH2tjWO--iGwACLcB/s1600/IMG_1640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pbBwCPweUEg/WDHuwbr-a0I/AAAAAAAAEJs/w4RJwa8jxlEwAFsysIh7LH2tjWO--iGwACLcB/s320/IMG_1640.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-clGytYiyZWY/WDHtXHuxKyI/AAAAAAAAEJk/4QYzvXNma8E44hAUvgk6l9o0lmEj6NYTwCEw/s1600/IMG_1652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-clGytYiyZWY/WDHtXHuxKyI/AAAAAAAAEJk/4QYzvXNma8E44hAUvgk6l9o0lmEj6NYTwCEw/s320/IMG_1652.jpg" width="240" /></a>Here is the pattern I'm using. After making a paper mock up, I thought it was a bit too small so I added an inch to the crown (I have a lot of hair) and an inch to the face framing part. That was a mistake because I failed to account for the flounces. Oh, well, I'll make it work.<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OtvNzhFKE3s/WDHtWzhArSI/AAAAAAAAEJg/RdGgzBQzIqMmWbNWCIQAFAOpXlyLhQb7ACEw/s1600/IMG_1649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OtvNzhFKE3s/WDHtWzhArSI/AAAAAAAAEJg/RdGgzBQzIqMmWbNWCIQAFAOpXlyLhQb7ACEw/s320/IMG_1649.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I started by thinking I was going to hand sew the entire thing. After embroidering the designs (I don't know how to embroider by hand, so this is my first try), I decided to screw the hand sewing. Hey, I'm looking at miles of little flounces. Of course I'm using a machine. If I ever become a docent somewhere, I'll redo the sucker by hand, but in the meantime.....</div>
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I made a few mistakes. I forgot to add the side casings and had to put them on after the cap was finished. More hand sewing. All in all, it looks OK, but I'm not a fan of the "droopy" look of the 1840s, the demure Victorian. Droopy hair, droopy shoulders and, now, a droopy cap.</div>
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I must say, this is the dumbest looking thing I've ever stuck on my head. That said...</div>
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Stay tuned as I plan to create that Oh-So-Fashionable Coal Scuttle Bonnet, the one that was was caricatured vehemently during the Victorian times - You know, the one that makes it impossible to see anything coming at you from the side, the one that makes it impossible to hear that horse drawn carriage careening at you in the street, the ever-demur Coal Scuttle Bonnet!</div>
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Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-17232424426354801422016-11-20T09:59:00.002-08:002016-11-20T09:59:37.065-08:00Fairy Costume for Costume College - Robin<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I haven't been inspired for a long time, but CoCo was coming up and I had nothing to re-wear. I wanted a quick-and-dirty fairy costume but ended up with this. The underdress is stretch satin. Well and good. The overdress is full of glitter that shed everywhere. It was as if I had my own fairy dust machine. I'm supposed to be Moth from Midsummer Night's Dream, but I didn't like any North American Moths. I loved the South American Moths, brightly colored and iridescent. Yes, I had traveled to Brazil last November and saw these moths in person. Many bad cellphone shots later, I decided to just look them up online.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2QcPpEBJ9Ks/WDHgUNR7x8I/AAAAAAAAEJM/FvxWTTrmEn0Z4hkK7-7aF2pjCCZDec0MQCEw/s1600/IMG_3184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2QcPpEBJ9Ks/WDHgUNR7x8I/AAAAAAAAEJM/FvxWTTrmEn0Z4hkK7-7aF2pjCCZDec0MQCEw/s640/IMG_3184.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5GX1C-NHXNY/WDHgUOgOz_I/AAAAAAAAEJI/53or9qrxfqUHBzkpyzX5GtIiSdHgh7XBQCLcB/s1600/IMG_3159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5GX1C-NHXNY/WDHgUOgOz_I/AAAAAAAAEJI/53or9qrxfqUHBzkpyzX5GtIiSdHgh7XBQCLcB/s320/IMG_3159.JPG" width="213" /></a>Here is a back shot of the wings. I had the most fun/annoying time making those suckers. I didn't want any sharp points to avoid poking other guests but I do have the habit of "Go Big or Go Home". You have to go through a door sideways while wearing these things. There are many fairy wing tutorials on the web. I used fabric, glue and wire. Oh, and glitter. Lots and lots of glitter.</div>
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I'm also wearing a cut little hand jewel that I bought at Costume College and promptly lost! Oh, well.</div>
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Nothing to add about construction, it was just a straight up build of a commercial pattern. This costume must live in a bag for the rest of its life. I am STILL vacuuming up glitter from my house. </div>
<br />Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-86872871649707257882016-09-06T18:01:00.001-07:002016-09-06T18:01:31.372-07:00we are still alive!!!I can post from my phone, but not add pictures! My computer, she is nearly dead. My hard drive is slowly fragmenting. But I've been busy and having fun.<br />
Made corded stays that failed. Badly.<br />
Made a 30's blouse that is pictured on Wearing History blog somewhere in the Costume College pictures.<br />
I've been doing a lot of therapeutic knitting.<br />
I made a Cobweb costume for CoCo.<br />
I helped with costuming for MacBeth in out local community theater.<br />
I made jeans from Smooth Sailing pattern and I love them them more than anything.<br />
Robin made some giant amazing wings.<br />
And we are leaving for 3 weeks in China and Mongolia very soon.<br />
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My computer should be fixed when I get back and I promise to start posting, and posting pictures again. And in the mean time, I'm knitting the Clapotis. Because everyone knits the Clapotis sooner or later.<br />
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BRB, LisaLisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-54448399586970134202016-05-12T20:27:00.000-07:002016-05-12T20:27:48.448-07:00Everyday vintage - L<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9zUhk1SUdrI/VzVGYN1zctI/AAAAAAAAEH4/e7NYozYrCHkEQWkg2RayssIaVeLZJMtCgCLcB/s1600/unnamed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9zUhk1SUdrI/VzVGYN1zctI/AAAAAAAAEH4/e7NYozYrCHkEQWkg2RayssIaVeLZJMtCgCLcB/s320/unnamed.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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Hadn't sewed in ages when I suddenly got the urge. Sadly, the urge ran out before I finished. I did make 3 things, though and I've worn 'em all. I have a 30's blouse pattern from Wearing History that is all ready to modify. And I have some beautiful fabric to make it up. I've had the fabric for a few years and no longer remember why I bought it meaning it is fair game for the fabric stash burn-down. </div>
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The picture is rushed and not so great. I will SAY Im going to add a better one, but it's not that likely. Maybe I'll snap a picture at Costume College.</div>
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First - Decades of Style Girl Friday blouse</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cXGgwciYTMQ/VzVBRS3QgmI/AAAAAAAAEGw/9LYvYDBepFA5FCWgElUK1vZKr2GakkSQwCLcB/s1600/unnamed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cXGgwciYTMQ/VzVBRS3QgmI/AAAAAAAAEGw/9LYvYDBepFA5FCWgElUK1vZKr2GakkSQwCLcB/s200/unnamed.jpg" width="149" /></a>I've made this before in a print, and I love it. In addition to the shoulder dart and the under bust pleats, I added a side dart. And this time I made it in plain white muslin and did the color embroidery around the collar and sleeves. Or rather the 'not sleeves'. While the embroidery itself wasn't fast, the rest of it goes together quickly and it's very comfortable. Other mods - I used snaps at the side opening instead of a zipper and I added ties sewn into the outside front pleat. I can tie it in the back for a slimmer fit. Snaps at the side have a softer look than a zipper. I added a 3/4 inch placket on each side of the opening, then put a hook and thread loop at the center, and two snaps at either side. I added shoulder pads. The other 'slow' thing I chose to do was to add the bias tape to finish the neck by hand.<br />
For me, the embroidery is really hard. It's my kryptonite. I fret if it isn't perfect. Well, it isn't, but I love it anyway. I used charcoal grey and two shades of pink. I never wear pink BUT there is method in this madness.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_qE8EqSZrg4/VzVBR6f1DBI/AAAAAAAAEG8/7RcPsmgQ3ZI7k_2dNiJ-SQSYvywZdNykACLcB/s1600/unnamed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_qE8EqSZrg4/VzVBR6f1DBI/AAAAAAAAEG8/7RcPsmgQ3ZI7k_2dNiJ-SQSYvywZdNykACLcB/s320/unnamed.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">collar is a pain, but looks pretty cool</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IIqC6NxH6TU/VzVBSL7LAWI/AAAAAAAAEHA/9fsn5drc8LYqfPUKv8lRIz4D0Rybm-lDQCLcB/s1600/unnamed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IIqC6NxH6TU/VzVBSL7LAWI/AAAAAAAAEHA/9fsn5drc8LYqfPUKv8lRIz4D0Rybm-lDQCLcB/s200/unnamed.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">hand tacking bias binding</td></tr>
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Border print skirt - I got this big, like 4 yards, length of fabric in Morocco. It's meant to wrap around the body and over the head. I paid $8 for it. It has a few stains and is worn in a couple places. It's also very thin and sheer. But it's this great turquoise with pink and orange and a black border. <br />
I backed it with white cotton lawn which was hellish since both fabrics were so wiggly and the cats decided to romp over it while I was working. Cut off the border on one side, pleated it into a waistband and done! Border print skirt with complimenting blouse! I came out a little longer than I expected so I may replace the waistband and take some off the top. I don't normally wear bright colors and worry that I look like a clown. But I wore it anyway.<br />
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Grey 40's wide leg trousers - Smooth Sailing from Wearing history<br />
I made up this pattern again, this time with front pockets and a fly front zipper. I had 3 yards of the smooth grey wool that I used for my anteater dress. I kept meaning to make a skirt until I realized that I don't actual WANT another skirt. I get much more use from vintage trousers. I had already altered this pattern for fit so it was pretty quick. Except I really wanted a fly front and pockets.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qOR5C7vtAr4/VzVBUGkYl1I/AAAAAAAAEHY/-_LWPGOeT8oxyCmCmK7plRZby2Q8pZsgwCLcB/s1600/unnamed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qOR5C7vtAr4/VzVBUGkYl1I/AAAAAAAAEHY/-_LWPGOeT8oxyCmCmK7plRZby2Q8pZsgwCLcB/s200/unnamed.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">fly front without backing flap</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MyjA4Dnc3Eg/VzVBRnfYoEI/AAAAAAAAEG4/QCzNCsabNacT5Cxn5XIuA3xNENY22tJ7ACLcB/s1600/unnamed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MyjA4Dnc3Eg/VzVBRnfYoEI/AAAAAAAAEG4/QCzNCsabNacT5Cxn5XIuA3xNENY22tJ7ACLcB/s200/unnamed.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">backing flap is SO much better</td></tr>
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Fly front isn't so hard, but like a welt pocket it doesn't make a lot of sense until you've don't it. I followed the <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3831/video-easy-to-sew-flat-fly-front-zipper" target="_blank">tutorial</a> on the Threads website. It works beautifully except for one thing. In a real fly front there is a flap under the edge of the zipper. So you don't catch your belly in it while zipping. That is not included in the Threads tutorial. I added it by sewing a folded and interfaced piece of fabric to the flap that the zipper attaches to (seam is hidden under the zipper).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">tiny, baby kitten is now huge and loves rolling on fabric</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pattern pieces and template to add pockets</td></tr>
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The front pockets are done exactly per the Anerican Duchess <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2015/10/how-to-add-shaped-pockets-to-pants-and.html" target="_blank">tutorial</a>. I cut paper pattern pieces so I can duplicate them every time I make the pattern. The only thing I added was bias tape along the curve of the pocket so it holds its shape better. The pants cam out a little to broad across the beam. I may take them in, but not now. Now I'm just going to enjoy them.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3aFEvUrDoyE/VzVBTPS4wuI/AAAAAAAAEHM/C3jeQctea0kFdpNPYgMBhGwEXRGQo6iawCLcB/s1600/unnamed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3aFEvUrDoyE/VzVBTPS4wuI/AAAAAAAAEHM/C3jeQctea0kFdpNPYgMBhGwEXRGQo6iawCLcB/s320/unnamed.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Added some bias tape to the pocket edge</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pockets and fly front zipper</td></tr>
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More cosplay sewing this weekend, after 4 straight days of recording wildlife for the marine sanctuary. 'Recording wildlife' sounds much more glamourous than counting seals and seagulls thru binoculars. <br />
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Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-78966808725333121192016-04-24T12:04:00.000-07:002016-04-24T15:54:39.727-07:00Has it really been 3 months? - Lisa<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--ozPEHDfHvw/Vx0NI0Z53NI/AAAAAAAAEE8/XtxK3oP4sfYIO46pwCuYLthLxjCuTzipwCLcB/s1600/IMG_2338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--ozPEHDfHvw/Vx0NI0Z53NI/AAAAAAAAEE8/XtxK3oP4sfYIO46pwCuYLthLxjCuTzipwCLcB/s200/IMG_2338.JPG" width="191" /></a>Liberte! I got 3rd Place in this VERY challenging single fabric costume competition. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SCW86brxPC4/Vx0NM_k-zQI/AAAAAAAAEFo/ipJm7bZU5q4i9pbR3zqoAu-z1u3lxXYmQCKgB/s1600/IMG_2484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SCW86brxPC4/Vx0NM_k-zQI/AAAAAAAAEFo/ipJm7bZU5q4i9pbR3zqoAu-z1u3lxXYmQCKgB/s320/IMG_2484.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everyone wanted a headdress</td></tr>
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When I finished my last efforts, I decided to take a break. I needed to deal with my yard, and paint some walls in my house and do some more knitting, not to mention travel! After I last posted, Robin and I flew to Myanmar/Burma. It was an exciting photographic trip, with some challenging hikes on steep trails in the rain, some amazing people and traditions. We photographed the Kayan, Chin, Akhu and Enn tribes. If I was less lazy, I'd post some pictures. Also, though, I want to wait until I learn how to use Lightroom software for editing. Great expectations. I managed to make a stand for my headdress out of a styrofoam head, tissue paper and glue, a heavy dowel and a plumbing fixture.<br />
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I also did a little (and continue to do) work in the yard, painted one wall red, knit a scarf and knit about 5 feet of a 7 - 8 foot shawl (dubbed the mini-blanket). Pictures can't do it justice because it's black with silver sparkles. When I get enough light, it looks faded and covered in cat hair. OK, there IS some cat hair...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">mini blanket with bonus cat hair</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">scarf</td></tr>
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Pride and Prejudice and Zombies was exactly as much fun as you'd expect. Our costumes look great. To make it even better, at least 15 drag queens were there in full and beautiful Regency ball gowns. We reached out to the Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild and had a couple extra people show up. <br />
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The black Regency dress is from the Simplicity Regency costume pattern. Cut a little extra full in the back, higher at the front neckline, and lower in the back. Someday I will trim it. The jacket body is from a McCalls blouse with a mandarin collar from a jacket and the long sleeves from the Regency pattern. Cheap lace scraps in the collar and $5 of fancy lace from eBay for the front. The front lace had to be coaxed and clipped into going around the bust, and hand tacked. Added eyepatch from the drugstore. The sword is $3 and painted (which has mostly flaked off) and the harness is made from belts left over from our Attack on Titan cosplay. I think I'm going to bring this to Costume College because it's super comfortable (no corset!) and fun. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inspiration image</td></tr>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CwYncuVUD4M/Vx0NFOcVHxI/AAAAAAAAEF0/l9yJU2SMCKgPyVkPB9s7fQawDaU1zjDnACKgB/s1600/IMG_2207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CwYncuVUD4M/Vx0NFOcVHxI/AAAAAAAAEF0/l9yJU2SMCKgPyVkPB9s7fQawDaU1zjDnACKgB/s200/IMG_2207.JPG" width="149" /></a></div>
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IMS1o27Zx7I/Vx0NKVzJ48I/AAAAAAAAEFs/GADLGsD7bB8Atjdw2a6MrVQxQ_8Z21ZuACKgB/s1600/IMG_2348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IMS1o27Zx7I/Vx0NKVzJ48I/AAAAAAAAEFs/GADLGsD7bB8Atjdw2a6MrVQxQ_8Z21ZuACKgB/s320/IMG_2348.JPG" width="239" /></a>Missy from Dr Who was a bit more work, but less than I planned. Hoo-raw! The costume changes every season, sometimes just a little so it was a challenge to decide where exactly to put the trim. The best part of cosplay is that mostly people don't notice as long as they recognize who you are. I used a pattern from the 1912 project for the skirt and added pleats where the trim should go in front. I didn't do the fancy period accurate closure. Just a zip in the back. The jacket is a frankenpattern mashup of these two patterns.</div>
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I used the long jacket pattern for the body and sleeves. I used the Vogue pattern laid on top of the jacket front to make the lapel, and the rest of the collar. Finally I curved the front of the jacket at the bottom and added pockets. Trim all over every edge. The trim is too narrow, and the color is wrong. And I love how it came out. <br />
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The blouse was hard. I used the Wearing History Smooth Sailing blouse for the body with sleeves from a different blouse pattern. I cut the center back very specially to get the point and cut the front yoke on the bias meaning I had to line it to hold it on grain sorry, no picture. I had to make cuffs from scratch and used a two part collar from the same blouse pattern as the sleeve. Then I trimmed the collar to get the shirt curved front. I bought the cameo from a cosplay friend. </div>
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Then there is the hat. It's another torn apart and re-molded sombrero. Spraypainted black. The flowers are leftover bits from other hats, the cherries are some Xmas decoration thing at JoAnns ($3) and the dead leaves are actual dead leaves from my yard. I opted out of all of the accessories. Sure it's cool to have them, but then you have to carry them around. I saved my pockets for my phone, ID, credit card and room key. Gallifrey was a blast, as always but may be my last for a while. It's turned into a busy time of year for my son. He had to do a video audition from our hotel room. I will wear this again at Fanime for the Dr Who meetup. Another costume that's incredibly comfortable. </div>
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Speaking of Fanime, two of the offspring are cosplaying Booker and Elizabeth from Bioshock Infinite and my nephew and his girlfriend are learning to sew so they can be the red and white mages from Final Fantasy. I'm supervising, and stepping in to avert disaster as needed. We've modified as needed to make these costumes as easy as possible. The characters are pretty iconic so I'm hoping it works out well.<br />
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And finally, I helped out in the tiniest but with the High School musical, Cinderella.<br />
Because four white mice just might become four white horses...<br />
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Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-4069215490921816512016-01-14T15:21:00.000-08:002016-01-14T15:21:20.932-08:00Holiday avoidance sewing, knitting, cosplay - Lisa<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sQlLWmrsIhg/VpgpbNu0iQI/AAAAAAAAECk/BKAmxfcxgho/s1600/win.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sQlLWmrsIhg/VpgpbNu0iQI/AAAAAAAAECk/BKAmxfcxgho/s320/win.JPG" width="307" /></a>In the midst of all the holiday fun with my family I did some avoidance knitting and started a couple of cosplays for 2016. <br />
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Also, my Bluebird Dress got a 3rd in the Shear Madness Single Fabric Challenge! I'm a happy girl.<br />
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Avoidance knitting is wonderful. It's soothing and repetitive, AND you can pretend you're accomplishing something when you're really just avoiding what you are supposed to be doing. Like bills and laundry and decorating the Xmas tree. I actually knit an entire sweater. Admittedly, I <br />
started back in September, but I actually DID the whole thing. I forgot all about negative ease and ended up knitting that baggy sweater that you leave at the office for when the A/C is too high. I love it. I also started a large scarf copied from a Xmas gift one of the offspring received last year. It's practically a mini-blanket. It's made from fingering weight black yarn with a little sparkle. I found a comparable yarn and asked the girl for a description of the stitch. She told me 'basket weave'. There are two kinds. I did a large sample of both and while the diagonal stitch looks very nice, it's slow and dense. Traditional basket weave is light and fluffy and makes a more comfortable scarf. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DWu-ebVL4QM/VpgqlY6BwxI/AAAAAAAAEC4/ug92MrNI00o/s1600/who.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DWu-ebVL4QM/VpgqlY6BwxI/AAAAAAAAEC4/ug92MrNI00o/s320/who.JPG" width="213" /></a>On the sewing front, I'm working on two cosplays. I love Missy from Dr Who so that's been in planning for a little while. I plan to put a full construction post up when I get it done. So far I have the skirt and the blouse and the basic hat. I'm getting a cameo from a friend who makes them, and I'm thinking hard about how much more I will be doing. The umbrella/parasol is really calling to me.<br />
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And a last minute throw down.... Lady Catherine DeBourgh from Pride and Prejudice and Zombies. <br />
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Someone mentions cosplay for the opening weekend and then next thing I know it's on. This was a really quick build. I used the Simplicity Regency pattern in black shirting (super cheap <$3 per yard) for the dress. I could have just made a skirt but maybe I'll have a use for a black Regency dress someday? The jacket is too long for a spencer and I made it using a McCalls blouse pattern with the sleeves from the Regency dress. I bought a couple yards of wide silver metallic lace on eBay and some horrid scratchy polyester lace around the neck. The only thing particularly difficult was getting the flat silver lace to go over my chest. I need an eyepatch and a cheap toy katana from Chinatown (spray painted) and I'm ready.<br />
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And that is good because Robin and I leaving tonight for Burma. We are going to the tribal region to do some photography. It's going to be a very exciting time since they just had a successful election. So goodbye house men, cats, reliable internet and El Niño! Back in February<br />
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Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-44533728523001238422015-12-23T11:05:00.000-08:002015-12-23T11:05:53.801-08:00Single fabric challenge - Shear Madness - Lisa<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xNEFV6jIrZc/VnraUPTFqNI/AAAAAAAAD-8/YDwrsPt-Owc/s1600/IMG_3158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xNEFV6jIrZc/VnraUPTFqNI/AAAAAAAAD-8/YDwrsPt-Owc/s320/IMG_3158.JPG" width="196" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">When Laura announced a single fabric challenge on the Shear Madness FB page, I was all in. The fabric is cotton with a floral/vine print and lots of birds. All in shades of blue and white. By 'single fabric' the costume is supposed to be made with the chosen fabric as the focus. I came back from Costume College with a strong desire to make a jacket/curacao/casaquin targeting the 1780's (which I'm not sure I did, it might be earlier). I'm not terribly worried about historical accuracy and the fabric 'reads' 18C but clearly is not. In addition, during our spring trip to Morocco, I suffered a little anxiety on a camel that enjoyed his liberty a little too much. We took to yelling 'liberte' every time he pulled loose from the line, with me on his back. Happily, he never took off across the desert. So for me it's all about French Revolution and freedom seeking camels from a (previously) French speaking country, and birds. I'm a part time birder.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See the faded birds in the center...print matching the bodice</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Everything but the stays had to be made. The jacket is the focus, and is made from the challenge fabric, plus a little of the solid blue left over from my Neried skirt.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">aww, look...they're kissing!</td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CnCt0wdds0Q/VnraPL3wpRI/AAAAAAAAD-E/WXsLHgNoENc/s1600/IMG_2258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CnCt0wdds0Q/VnraPL3wpRI/AAAAAAAAD-E/WXsLHgNoENc/s320/IMG_2258.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Jacket. I started with the Mill Farm pattern that I used for Queen of Clubs. I made a muslin and started drawing lines where I thought the zone front should go. The I cut along the lines. Thing is, this pattern is designed with a stomacher and I wanted to make it meet in the middle so this was a little more complicated than I expected. I might have yelled 'I don't know what I'm doing' on a variety of occasions, and it took me longer than I expected. I didn't have enough fabric to make mistakes. The print is VERY directional and I wanted the birds to be facing each other front and back. </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Each piece was cut individually. I was worried about doing the Anglais pleating in the back because I didn't have Robin to help, but it wasn't that bad. Steaming as I went really helped set the curved folds. I stitched them in place with a running stitch. I left the center back piece long as a sort of 'swallowtail'. </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;"> Fitting the side back was the hardest part because I was in stays, and I'd put the sleeves in backwards. I really, really didn't want to fix </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">that, you know, when you're tired of looking at the same thing and are ready to be DONE. </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">But I did. </span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SlerRoF2-8g/VnrgChnhIuI/AAAAAAAAEA8/Hv2fhlRQJq4/s1600/inspo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SlerRoF2-8g/VnrgChnhIuI/AAAAAAAAEA8/Hv2fhlRQJq4/s1600/inspo.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Finally, I decided to add a </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">faux belt in front because I like the look of the dress at left. I even made my red ribbon striped by sewing some thin white ribbon over it. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And I left a little gap where the print meets the blue at the center front so I could pull my fichu through. Which I then forgot to do in all the pictures</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pull fichu through here, unless you forget</td></tr>
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<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Petticoat and petticoat - because we have to call them the same thing? Both were made using tutorials from <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.com/18c_petticoat.html" target="_blank">The Fashionable Past (Koshka)</a> The under petticoat was made from old sheets and really should be remade since it's too limp. The skirt is white cotton voile with a big ruffle. I don't have any construction photos available. Oops. I also made a rump pad. It's a largish stuffed rectangle that ties around my waist. I may remake that too since I'm not super happy with the shape. Or not, because I'm not sure how often I will need it.</span><br />
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<br style="font-family: Helvetica;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Kerchief/fichu- based on 10 minutes of research, typically 36 in square. Quick math gives a hypotenuse of 51 inches. Just about perfect unless you're rather tall with a large chest. Quick estimate with a measuring tape yields 55 inches, plus seam allowance = 56. Reverse the math, 39 1/2 inches on each side. I used some beautiful sheer cotton voile and hand hemmed it. Hand hems are much softer and more fluid than a machine seam. Also much, much slower. Now that I have this, I will be less concerned about my necklines. I can make them lower and not worry about massive </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">cleavage since I can cover it up.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica;" /><br /><br style="font-family: Helvetica;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">The hat. It's made </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">from an ugly party sombrero that I deconstructed and sewed back together in the shape I wanted. Then I spray painted it blue.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">I made the birdcage from some wired burlap stuff on sale at Michael's. I cut it, shaped it and set it with white glue. I cut out a square for the cage door, and used scraps to MAKE a cage door which I tacked on. Then I spray painted it gold.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">The bird was the challenge. I wanted a bluebird, that was flying free from the cage. And I assumed that one could simply buy a bluebird with outstretched wings. But NOOO.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">So I got a wingless bluebird and a made wings. </span><br />
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Here is the sad little wingless bird with the wings in progress. I made craft foam wing shapes and glued a wire on the leading edge so I could shape them a little. Then I used a variety of blue, or blueish feathers and started gluing them down. I tried to use white glue because it's not as heavy as hot glue. I gave up pretty quickly. <br />
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Gluing feathers was...interesting? My kitten succeeded in running off with one of the wings but I caught him before too much damage was done. Once everything was glued, I trimmed them into wing shapes.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H6FUE6Y5b90/VnraO-dec6I/AAAAAAAAD-A/mRN9bmty-hg/s1600/IMG_2266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H6FUE6Y5b90/VnraO-dec6I/AAAAAAAAD-A/mRN9bmty-hg/s320/IMG_2266.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Finally, I glued them to the sides of the bird. They only fell off twice. And I'm only a little bit bothered that they aren't anything like actual bird wings....</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">I'm actually really happy with my bird. I got it done, attached it to the cage and the beak fell off. Oh happy, happy glue.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">The final parts of the hat are the banner and the cockade.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">The banner is blue grosgrain with wire sewn in. I painted 'Liberte' on both sides and added gentle </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">folds </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">to make it 'float'. This is the shout out to my charming Moroccan camel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The cockade was a last minute addition. I needed something to echo the red in the belt and I had taken a class in the spring on making cockades. (A class from Candice Kling who is the most amazing ribbon worker, bar none) This red cockade was one of my trials from the class.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And, finally, after a bit more glue and wire, some ruffles and ribbon, I got it done. I tilted the cage because I will tilt the hat when I wear it.</span></div>
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Here is the final dress. Pictures taken at sunset with horrid light, by a man who cannot figure how to work my camera. I needed to wait for the rain to stop, and for my hair to dry so timing was awful. and I made him take a lot of pictures and almost none of them are actually, totally in focus. And my secret and very fun shoes don't show (just a little in the skirt picture). They're red and white stripe Moroccan mules made from camel leather. </div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span>Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-54990397719373395932015-11-06T17:07:00.000-08:002015-11-06T17:07:01.315-08:00Silk hats from straw trash - L<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o0O1rS3qndk/Vj1LhiGAcOI/AAAAAAAAD7E/C6imdhfdnyA/s1600/hat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="170" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o0O1rS3qndk/Vj1LhiGAcOI/AAAAAAAAD7E/C6imdhfdnyA/s320/hat.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before and After</td></tr>
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Think to do when you're sick in bed. Knit. Sleep. Knit. Get bored and make a hat.<br />
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My fellow blogger Robin had a pile of these cheap straw costume sombreros that she was getting rid of. Knowing I needed a couple of big hats in the near future, I asked to take some of them. Straw is fairly compliant, once it gets wet and some of the lurid colors could easily be spray painted.<br />
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I cut the crown off the brim about 3 rows from the bottom. Then I folded the top row over and tacked in into place. Next I pulled apart the bands of woven straw from the crown (seam ripper!) and used the top, patterned, part to make a round flat crown. Then I got both parts wet and ironed them into the shape I wanted. It takes a little patience, but damp straw will eventually take a hint....<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tVFdPkcnRvA/Vj1LsURjFCI/AAAAAAAAD7Y/javsUcSB_jo/s1600/hat3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tVFdPkcnRvA/Vj1LsURjFCI/AAAAAAAAD7Y/javsUcSB_jo/s320/hat3.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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After ironing I let them sit for about an hour and dry. Then I sewed the crown onto the little ridge I'd made and I was done. If I am feeling more lively, I may add a wire in the brim and spray it with sizing.<br />
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In fact, after I finished, I liked the blue and natural colors so much that I made <i>another</i> hat to spray paint. And I made the crown even lower, more like a bergere which is what I want. I have some fun plans for this hat, due up in a later post......<br />
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<br />Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-12516097615231006872015-11-06T16:51:00.000-08:002015-11-06T16:51:15.384-08:00Secret Challenge and a swing coat - HSM/HSF - L<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w-dtYATtroA/Vj1IjEjscUI/AAAAAAAAD6k/2jvE7Ew4q88/s1600/coat1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w-dtYATtroA/Vj1IjEjscUI/AAAAAAAAD6k/2jvE7Ew4q88/s320/coat1.JPG" width="240" /></a>I bought some lovely fabric years ago. It's a loose weave wool/silk blend. It's a light, soft, medium drape fabric. In fact, I got two different colors of this lovely fabric. I knew I wanted to make a swing coat and maybe a capelet (or, ya know, something fun). Every fall I tell myself 'I need to make that swing coat' but something else gets in the way. Since I'm trying to burn down stash fabric, I simply HAD to get this done. I live on the California coast near San Francisco so a lightweight coat is useful most of the year, and I love 30's and 40's clothes. I'm using the Butterick '48 vintage pattern that was recently re-issued. That makes this coat too modern for the HSM/HSF group, however the challenge is to add something secret to an item. I seriously hope I'm not stretching the rules too much by adding an small embroidered pocket on the inside of the coat as my 'secret'. The plan for the embroidery is to copy a tiny painting my grandmother made. She would have worn a coat like this, and was as fashionable as she could be on her rather limited budget. She loved birds and took up painting them in the latter half of her life. The challenge is entirely around my embroidery skills.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See the secret pocket??</td></tr>
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The coat</div>
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As always, I'm did an FBA. Bust shaping in the pattern is accomplished with a shoulder dart at the edge of the shawl collar. I was loathe to increase the size of this dart since it looked like it would add more volume at the center front than at the actual bust. So once again, I added a bust dart. Basically, I slashed and spread as if I was increasing an existing dart to create this dart. I'm trying something new. I'm making the changes on a tracing of the pattern from the waist up. I marked the waist on the tracing. I used this modified pattern piece as an overlay for the front, the interface and the lining. It saved me having to make the modifications 3 times. The added width from the FBA was perfect to allow me to add a button to a coat that wasn't supposed to have one. <br />
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The fabric ultimately had too loose a weave and too much stretch for this coat. Sadly, I'm not very happy with it. Also, my poor choice of interfacing remains crunchy even after a few wearings and professional pressing. Hanging it on the dress form doesn't help but I've had the flu for over a week and couldn't bring myself to take a picture in it.<br />
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The happy, happy secret:<br />
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It only took three tries to get the bluebird embroidered. It's been a VERY long time since that Girl Scout badge so I can't even remember the names of the stitches I used. </div>
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Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-42414945874919382002015-11-06T16:37:00.001-08:002015-11-06T16:37:33.630-08:00Giant pocket hoop tutorial - Lisa<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yclL5v8ta98/Uy7u9_4gFOI/AAAAAAAADFI/1CUkdS8olmU/s1600/18c.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yclL5v8ta98/Uy7u9_4gFOI/AAAAAAAADFI/1CUkdS8olmU/s320/18c.JPG" width="320" /></a>If you are seeking historical accuracy, quit now. Giant pocket hoops are NOT a real thing as far as I can tell. I wanted to make some, so I did. I started by looking at the pattern in Corsets and Crinolines, but they were far too small for what I planned. I wasn't sure giant pocket hoops would work. Holding up a big skirt is typically done with a pannier hoop, but my pocket hoops worked pretty well. And they pack up small enough to fit in a carryon. Barely. Mine are packed away and hard to reach so all numbers are estimates. Your mileage may vary.<br />
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Materials<br />
Black muslin - fairly heavy weight, about 3 yards (don't remember, mine are from leftover yardage<br />
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3/8 inch flexible PVC plastic tubing - about 10 yards<br />
1 inch twill tape for waist ties and boning channels<br />
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Figure out how wide you want each hoop. You might choose about the distance across the front of your hips for a fairly accurate court gown silhouette. You will then be about 3 times wider than normal. Fun! Diagram shows how I got my measurements. <br />
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Hoop width - 20 inches (X to B)<br />
Outside perimeter - approx 47 inches (A to B to C)<br />
Side - approx 10 inches (A to C)<br />
My hoops are about 15 inches tall (1 to 3)<br />
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<i>If you want a different width, draw a line the width you want (X to B) and bend some tubing into the curve shape (A to B to C). This will give you your perimeter. No math required.</i><br />
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For each hoop:<br />
Cut a rectangle 47" by 35" PLUS seam allowance. Sew in boning channels with 1 inch twill tape at the bottom (leave a seam allowance below the channel), up about 7 inches, and up another 7 inches. Sew an angled channel that goes from 2A to 1B to 2C, in between the top two boning channels. Keep the curve gentle. This provides support for the other channels. Leave about 5 inches of sewing open at the top of each channel so you can put in the tubing. There is extra fabric at the top. Ignore it for now.<br />
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Cut a rectangle 10" by 15" plus seam allowance. Sew it along side A from 1 to 3 and side C from 1 to 3. Now you can put in your tubes and tack the channels closed. You can close your hoops at the bottom. I traced the shape on fabric, cut it out and tacked it to the bottom seam allowance. If you want to skip that, you can. I think it adds stability. If your tubing is too curly, you can straighten it by dipping it in boiling water. It straightens up beautifully. <br />
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Now for the really technical part (kidding).... Easiest on a dress form but you can borrow a friend. Wrap twill tape around the waist and start pinning the extra fabric. Start at A and C about 4 to 6 inches above your top boning channel. Pin to the twill tape. Then start wadding/folding the rest of the top fabric to the twill tape. Try to get a slightly tighter than 90 degree angle because this will stretch when you put your dress on it. And it will stay stretched. There is no right way to do it so don't worry about doing it right. I made a 'sort of' channel at the waist so my twill tape waist can slide thru it because my waist fluctuates. Most important is that each hoop is level with the other at the outside edge. They won't be perfect but get as close as you can. Trim any extra fabric. I put twill tape across the back from 2 to 2 that rests against<br />
my backside when I wear them. I also have ties from 3 to 3 in front. This keeps them from sliding around while I'm wearing them. Mine close at the waist with the twill tape. Tied in a bow. <br />
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The top on my hoops required a bit of fiddling to get right. And then they stretched and I took big tucks. That part really is an ugly mess. I hand sewed it because it's easier than trying to get it just right to machine sew. Despite being a fugly mess, the hoops worked perfectly. And collapsed on themselves and fit in a small suitcase.Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-20995907264635731372015-10-19T18:39:00.000-07:002015-10-19T18:39:08.894-07:00"Restac", the Leader of the Silurian Warrior Class<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The challenge with this one was that there were no patterns! As Lisa can tell you, I'm usually lost without a pattern, but I finally got to put those draping classes to work. Here you exchange the discomfort of a corset for the discomfort of neck rings where the paint never dried.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M278eUXtss4/ViWK4cN2SbI/AAAAAAAAD2c/-DP6pdTklD8/s1600/Eldane%2Bcowl%2Bpaint.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M278eUXtss4/ViWK4cN2SbI/AAAAAAAAD2c/-DP6pdTklD8/s200/Eldane%2Bcowl%2Bpaint.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dGi5u_kAIig/ViWLN3Kk_QI/AAAAAAAAD4A/86ZpP1f9n4I/s1600/restac%2Bfinished%2Bcowl%2Bfront%2Bview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dGi5u_kAIig/ViWLN3Kk_QI/AAAAAAAAD4A/86ZpP1f9n4I/s200/restac%2Bfinished%2Bcowl%2Bfront%2Bview.jpg" width="150" /></a>I ordered the cowls from <a href="http://www.decimateddesigns.com/" target="_blank">Decimated Designs</a>. This is just your garden-variety latex house paint. I don't own a spray gun, so all this is by hand.<br />
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You can see a photo of Restac here :<a href="http://tardis.wikia.com/wiki/Restac" target="_blank">Restac photo</a><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8OyC1GIkoKY/ViWWLePwq0I/AAAAAAAAD48/fj32FMZBs84/s1600/IMG_8964Rob%2Bmakeup2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8OyC1GIkoKY/ViWWLePwq0I/AAAAAAAAD48/fj32FMZBs84/s200/IMG_8964Rob%2Bmakeup2.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l4SikLPjPkI/ViWLNOyb6kI/AAAAAAAAD34/tiFc5rE3kPg/s1600/Restac%2Bfinished%2Bcowl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l4SikLPjPkI/ViWLNOyb6kI/AAAAAAAAD34/tiFc5rE3kPg/s200/Restac%2Bfinished%2Bcowl.jpg" width="150" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uBFyhZYJNuA/ViWWLrEQU2I/AAAAAAAAD5E/q6QeZXKQYFQ/s1600/IMG_8963%2BRob%2Bmakeup1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uBFyhZYJNuA/ViWWLrEQU2I/AAAAAAAAD5E/q6QeZXKQYFQ/s200/IMG_8963%2BRob%2Bmakeup1.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G2i_zn0zCv8/ViWWLu_i_WI/AAAAAAAAD5A/YHH1ENJOYuw/s1600/IMG_8965Rob%2Bmakeup%2B3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G2i_zn0zCv8/ViWWLu_i_WI/AAAAAAAAD5A/YHH1ENJOYuw/s200/IMG_8965Rob%2Bmakeup%2B3.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WIRN0BKJZ20/ViWWPJiuu8I/AAAAAAAAD5k/2XIpWj88XVY/s1600/IMG_8966%2BRob%2Bmakeup4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--l1mBqvrse0/ViWWPswmd5I/AAAAAAAAD5U/RzFJMEmWXOg/s1600/IMG_8968%2BRob%2Bmakeup%2B6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--l1mBqvrse0/ViWWPswmd5I/AAAAAAAAD5U/RzFJMEmWXOg/s200/IMG_8968%2BRob%2Bmakeup%2B6.JPG" width="200" /></a><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WIRN0BKJZ20/ViWWPJiuu8I/AAAAAAAAD5k/2XIpWj88XVY/s200/IMG_8966%2BRob%2Bmakeup4.JPG" width="200" /><br />
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For the makeup, it is better to put on a bald cap first, so you don't end up gluing you hair, but my boyfriend is not skilled and putting one on yourself takes waaay too much effort, so I opted for some glued hair strands. The cowl fit me much better than it fit Roger, probably because of the mass of hair stuffed in the top of it. I had to put the costume on first because I couldn't make the opening big enough for the head AND have it stay on my shoulders,<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7o-rZLfghd4/ViWLNHKTccI/AAAAAAAAD3g/LA4uWu-6dyw/s1600/Restac%2Bskirt%2Bcontstruct.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7o-rZLfghd4/ViWLNHKTccI/AAAAAAAAD3g/LA4uWu-6dyw/s320/Restac%2Bskirt%2Bcontstruct.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I made a shift out of double-sided quilted material, which I bound with quilt binding. This didn't have the flexibility I'd envisioned and I felt as if I were wearing a giant pot-holder.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HVkDjrseMyw/ViWLOJUYIEI/AAAAAAAAD3k/igNMrnTW46Q/s1600/restac%2Bjacket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HVkDjrseMyw/ViWLOJUYIEI/AAAAAAAAD3k/igNMrnTW46Q/s320/restac%2Bjacket.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aeBf3-3SF0M/ViWLOjikTiI/AAAAAAAAD38/pS-rWzEQSUU/s1600/restac%2Bstringing%2Barmor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aeBf3-3SF0M/ViWLOjikTiI/AAAAAAAAD38/pS-rWzEQSUU/s320/restac%2Bstringing%2Barmor.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
I draped some material over the dummy for the jacket. The first time I did it, it was too small because I draped it over just the dummy without the rest of the costume under it! The "potholder" dress added so much bulk that the coast had to be much larger. The "armor" is craft foam with gold scrapbooking paper glued to it. Then I slit and laced the shapes together, then glued those down. I wore it as a sort of apron, just pinned inside the jacket, as the jacket would never be removed.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yv472Va-W9o/ViWLOSEUUfI/AAAAAAAAD3s/pTcjIEqQqgY/s1600/restac%2Bon%2Bdummy%252C%2Bno%2Bhead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yv472Va-W9o/ViWLOSEUUfI/AAAAAAAAD3s/pTcjIEqQqgY/s320/restac%2Bon%2Bdummy%252C%2Bno%2Bhead.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AzPPUm8V3WU/ViWYlCuTzWI/AAAAAAAAD5w/AGWq4J-90c8/s1600/test%2Bchain%2Bmail%2Bcrochet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AzPPUm8V3WU/ViWYlCuTzWI/AAAAAAAAD5w/AGWq4J-90c8/s200/test%2Bchain%2Bmail%2Bcrochet.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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The only problem with the gold paper is that it bounces light.<br />
For the sleeves, I did a test crochet for chain mail, but decided on just a straight garter stitch for the sleeves. Had to do those twice - the first time they were too skinny, the second time, a little large.<br />
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The neck and arm rings are just plastic tubing, painted. The paint wouldn't dry, so I doused them in baby powder. That helped a bit, but they ended up in the trash the next day. Gonna have to find a better paint for those rings!<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HzmtVMedz0Y/ViWancZuIbI/AAAAAAAAD58/-5ugHzcxoaA/s1600/IMG_8981%2BRestac%2Bfull%2Bbody.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HzmtVMedz0Y/ViWancZuIbI/AAAAAAAAD58/-5ugHzcxoaA/s640/IMG_8981%2BRestac%2Bfull%2Bbody.jpg" width="425" /></a>All in all, I'm happy with these costumes.</div>
Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-47355556779317894182015-10-19T18:05:00.000-07:002015-10-19T18:05:45.707-07:00Silurian Eldane makeup<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JwoxBOwKVR8/ViWP2MK-3TI/AAAAAAAAD4M/A30LK-pyYSw/s1600/IMG_8970%2BEldane%2Bfull%2Bbody.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JwoxBOwKVR8/ViWP2MK-3TI/AAAAAAAAD4M/A30LK-pyYSw/s640/IMG_8970%2BEldane%2Bfull%2Bbody.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
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The cowl was a one-size-fits-most, but Roger's head is small, so I put scrap fabric in between his head and the cowl to take up space. I glued down the cowl with spirit gum, then painted his face with green grease paint. To break up the monotony of all green, I stippled yellow in highlight areas, added the hand-drawn scales, then added a few purple discoloration marks. After powdering thoroughly - TWICE - he was ready.<br />
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<br />Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-89335884544958202042015-10-19T17:55:00.000-07:002015-10-19T17:56:03.592-07:00Silurian Eldane for a Dr. Who-Dunnit Murder Mystery.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Eldane" and "Restac" at the Murder Mystery</td></tr>
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For the Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild Dr. Who-Dunnit murder Mystery, I went to Cosplay for the first time. There are no patterns for these things, so I just made it up as I went along.<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0snZx0C-79E/ViWK4zzm-EI/AAAAAAAAD20/L07jfukfeeU/s1600/eldane%2Bmaking%2Bstripes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0snZx0C-79E/ViWK4zzm-EI/AAAAAAAAD20/L07jfukfeeU/s200/eldane%2Bmaking%2Bstripes.jpg" width="150" /></a>For Eldane, I bought a graduation robe from Amazon, made a stole, then added purchased ribbon in stripes to simulate the Eldane look.<br />
Couldn't get wide enough cream ribbon, so I bonded two pieces together, then laid the red one on top.<br />
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You can see the original Eldane here: <a href="http://tardis.wikia.com/wiki/Eldane" target="_blank">Eldane pic</a><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M278eUXtss4/ViWK4cN2SbI/AAAAAAAAD2c/-DP6pdTklD8/s1600/Eldane%2Bcowl%2Bpaint.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M278eUXtss4/ViWK4cN2SbI/AAAAAAAAD2c/-DP6pdTklD8/s200/Eldane%2Bcowl%2Bpaint.jpg" width="150" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XLCIEsjZPhw/ViWK5R5FtZI/AAAAAAAAD3A/3JFydrVuTyI/s1600/eldane%2Bstripes%2Bpinned.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XLCIEsjZPhw/ViWK5R5FtZI/AAAAAAAAD3A/3JFydrVuTyI/s200/eldane%2Bstripes%2Bpinned.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ea6cflSr4t4/ViWK4YtfzTI/AAAAAAAAD2w/22x4C8CPirI/s1600/eldane%2Bfinished%2Bcowl2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ea6cflSr4t4/ViWK4YtfzTI/AAAAAAAAD2w/22x4C8CPirI/s200/eldane%2Bfinished%2Bcowl2.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jYgKbqQw_sk/ViWK4T60YmI/AAAAAAAAD2o/Q2Zw1i2cOlA/s1600/eldane%2Bfinished%2Bcowl%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jYgKbqQw_sk/ViWK4T60YmI/AAAAAAAAD2o/Q2Zw1i2cOlA/s200/eldane%2Bfinished%2Bcowl%2B1.jpg" width="150" /></a>The cowls were fun to paint. I ordered these from <a href="http://www.decimateddesigns.com/" target="_blank">Decimated Designs</a>, a wonderful site that has latex costume supplies. These were unpainted, so I got to play with stippling and breaking up the colors. Then I outlined the scales to give it depth.<br />
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There is a separate post for the makeup.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JwoxBOwKVR8/ViWP2MK-3TI/AAAAAAAAD4I/KzU90NERHV4/s1600/IMG_8970%2BEldane%2Bfull%2Bbody.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JwoxBOwKVR8/ViWP2MK-3TI/AAAAAAAAD4I/KzU90NERHV4/s400/IMG_8970%2BEldane%2Bfull%2Bbody.jpg" width="266" /></a>Here's my sweetie in his final costume. The neck rings were problematic as the paint would not cure. I finally doused them in baby powder, but ended up throwing them away after the evening was over. Wrong match of materials, so if I use these costumes again, I'll have to rework the rings.</div>
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Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-5542464105761588602015-09-23T09:19:00.000-07:002015-09-23T09:19:44.430-07:00The brown challenge - HSF/HSM - Lisa<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m54W3cpQE8c/VgLMGk5z73I/AAAAAAAAD08/xG490RyrRlo/s1600/IMG_2381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m54W3cpQE8c/VgLMGk5z73I/AAAAAAAAD08/xG490RyrRlo/s400/IMG_2381.JPG" width="195" /></a>I had a couple things I could make for the brown challenge. Both from the 30's/40's with my <a href="https://wearinghistory.clothing/product/16/" target="_blank">Wearing History patterns</a>. Trousers and a blouse. I actually made both, and started working on a swing coat. I've planned to make the swing coat for the last two winters. Wide leg trousers were popular starting in the 30's, though they were not common and not worn as everyday clothing.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jean Harlow in trousers</td></tr>
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I have a pin stripe cotton, mostly brown with a little blue, for the blouse. I was going to get wool flannel for the trousers but I wasn't sure I would like how the pants looked on me so I declined to invest the cash. Instead I got a dark chocolate rayon twill. It has lovely drape, though it's not very forgiving of my bumps. I actually bought all this quite a while ago and just haven't got around to sewing it.</div>
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Smooth Sailing Pants </div>
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The largest size of the pattern is a tiny bit too small for me in most places. It's definitely too small in the 'high hip' (commonly know as the 'pot' belly). I altered the curve of the hip and altered the pleats and darts along with adding to the overall size. I also hand sewed the side zip because I've found that I get a smoother line. Clearly I'm too lazy to go downstairs to press my work before pictures.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hand picked zip - Not pressed</td></tr>
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And now, a moment to talk about squish. I have a lot of squish, and it's not all just fat. Everyone should know their squishability, because it matters when making alterations. I added room in the pattern to match my measurements and then, when the muslin seemed too tight in the waist, I added more. But I shouldn't have because I'm squishy, and I know it. If my pants fit 'properly' in the waist they are actually too loose and will slide to my high hip. I find I need to squish in about 1- 1 1/2 inches (more if the fabric will stretch a bit when wearing). I always have a little roll over my waist but I prefer that to droopy pants. I added an extra inch to the muslin and ended up taking two inches out. That same 'squish' factor means I need to add a bit of extra room through the seat. When I sit down I squish OUT there (wearing ease). Alternately, Robin my co-blogger, has almost no squish no matter what her size. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welt pocket - Also NOT pressed </td></tr>
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A side effect of the squish alterations was that the legs of the pants are a bit fuller than they appear in the pattern picture. The pattern is for straight leg pants from the low hip and I added ease in the low hip. My final decision was whether to add a welt pocket on the seat. I've never done it, so I HAD to try. I haven't made the belt yet, but I want to do that, too.<br />
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Smooth Sailing Blouse<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7xvb_4nry0M/VgLL2Kr8GgI/AAAAAAAAD0U/WuVT5M-Pzjw/s1600/shirt.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7xvb_4nry0M/VgLL2Kr8GgI/AAAAAAAAD0U/WuVT5M-Pzjw/s320/shirt.JPG" width="239" /></a>The blouse pattern fit, except the bust. Because it's made of cotton shirting and buttons down the front, I wanted to make sure I added plenty of fabric. No gap! The pattern creates bust fullness through pleating below the yoke. I added half my extra volume there. I also chose to add a bust dart, along with a little extra length in the front. Due to the extra volume at the bust, I added a second shaping dart at the waist. I'm quite content with how it worked out.<br />
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A couple of surprises with the pattern; first, the yoke is not lined and second, the shoulder seam came out slanting back over my shoulder. Neither one of these were a problem. I'm going to use the pattern again, and I will likely line the yoke and will slash and spread to move the shoulder seam closer to my actual shoulders. The yoke is fine without the lining and hangs nicely, but my next blouse will have the outside of the yoke cut on the bias (for stripe detail) and will need the support.<br />
The shoulder seam placement meant that closing the blouse up to the neck wasn't a viable option. It will be easy to fix in the future. Note; this is related to MY shape, not a problem with the pattern.<br />
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Both these patterns were extremely easy to work with and the instructions were straightforward. I LOVE them. I'm also secretly happy that I matched stripes (sorta) at the shoulder.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's 7AM! Only time I had for pictures...</td></tr>
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Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-41827580049523110752015-08-31T12:09:00.001-07:002015-08-31T12:09:35.955-07:001826 cap, HSM - Lisa<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I saw this pattern photo in about 8 different facebook feeds and liberated it for my personal use. I genuinely want to address every challenge and my original plan was derailed by, well, a lot (more after the cap). But I do have a lot of cotton organdy remnants from my daughter's cosplay and decided I could do something with them. </div>
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I'm still working on my version of the Lowell Mill Dress and decided that an 1826 cap would be the perfect compliment. This cap likely fulfills the 'heritage' part of the challenge. My family is Northern European and roundly middle class so this cap makes sense. But to insure I fit the criteria, I hand sewed it (so it could be sort of 'heirloom' too). </div>
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The pattern comes with measurements and I copied them exactly, adding seam allowance. Apparently my head is a lot bigger than I thought and I had to do it over, adding about 2 1/2 inches to the length (ear to ear over the head).</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">crown and back before gathers</td></tr>
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There were no instructions so I was on my own for construction, but it really isn't complicated. Fussy, but not complicated. I could have done some research but I WAS running out of time. My first decision was to gather the back section over a length of cotton yarn, like piping. This means that it can't be made larger or smaller but I'm OK with that. I used the same yarn for the piping around the front section. I chose to box pleat rather than gather the ruffles around the edges because it's easier for me.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">finishing edges</td></tr>
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The back and crown pieces are single layers, but I chose to make the front piece double layer. That allowed me to enclose raw edges easily. I did a fitting before I added the lining piece to the front. The front seemed to come to low on my forehead so I took a 1 inch tuck across the top. I'm now calling it a 'decorative feature'. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">tiny strips for bows</td></tr>
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Most of the stitching, including the hem of the ruffles, was done in running stitch. I used back stitch to attach the front to the back and crown, and whip stitched the lining to the front. </div>
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Then I made about 5 feet of 1/8 inch wide 'ribbon' for the decoration. I had some poly ribbon that would have worked but I wanted to try and do this like it would be done in 1826. No JoAnns in 1826. Those skinny strips were really annoying. 1/2 strips of fabric folded like bias tape and sewed with running stitch.</div>
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True Facts:</div>
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First time I've hand sewed 100% of an item bigger than a handkerchief.</div>
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First time I've made something just like the picture (I'm excepting the 'decorative' tuck).</div>
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I've never been excited by these little caps but I find that there have been times that I really need one when I get 'dressed up' and don't want to wear a big 'ole bonnet.</div>
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I will wear this for Regency, without shame.</div>
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I'm thrilled that I will only have to curl the front of my hair. The rest will be hidden. Or, maybe even fake curls.</div>
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And because it was requested that we have a picture of ourselves wearing the item... (no curls, no makeup, poor lighting, my apologies)</div>
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And oh gosh what a month this has been. Started off great with Costume College. And then it went downhill fast. Broken water heater, broken car, broken kitten. Two of those were expensive, but easy to fix. One was just kind of awful. Poor kitty! He knocked a huge owl house over by repeatedly running into it. And he cracked his front paw. He needed to be sedated and restrained for 3 weeks. And during these three weeks I started to clean my sewing room and discovered moths. A LOT of moths. They had eaten a knitted hood and were starting on the mitts. Luckily they had found the fabric but hadn't settled in. I had planned to try and reproduce my great-grandmother's wedding dress. I got fabric and lace. It's gonna have to wait.</div>
Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-81540698344733802952015-08-27T10:37:00.000-07:002015-09-23T08:30:35.555-07:00Demode Court Dress - SHINY and all in one place FINAL UPDATE - L<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: blue;">New pictures added below.</span><br />
Queen of Clubs. All hope is not lost. I've made a lot of progress in the last few days and have decided to re-assemble most of my posts in one place.<br />
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The Demode Court Dress for CoCo meet-up was delayed by one year. This was a very good thing for me. I had originally thought I could drape this without a pattern. I now know this was wrong. Maybe another time. This is my first attempt at anything earlier than 1850 and I went right for something remarkably difficult. Not only that, though, I chose an inspiration dress that is a victorian fancy dress. I'm on my own to figure out how to make all the trim look 1770's. Or even something sorta kinda like that.<br />
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Last year I made stays and giant pocket hoops. I also made a chemise.<br />
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Earlier this year I caved in and got a pattern. Mill Farm. I got it because it was cheap and I knew that I'd have to do a lot of modifications. While the shape of the pattern is accurate, I find it confusing. More confusing than it needs to be, mostly because there are no pictures or drawing in the instructions. <br />
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Step one. FBA. I couldn't find any help online for increasing bust volume for this kind of dress, so I made it up. It actually worked pretty well. Robin helped me fit and there were only modest changes. But I was laced too tight. When I checked the second muslin it was too small.<br />
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I 'fixed' it again and went ahead and cut.<br />
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I also cut organdy for an under petticoat. I used <a href="http://demodecouture.com/grand-panier-petticoat-for-the-semi-ocd/" target="_blank">Kendra's post</a> for help in getting it put together because I really had NO IDEA. None. Pretty sloppy the first time through but it worked and won't show at all. I promise to do better with the proper petticoat. Really. I have a picture but is is trapped in a device with a broken power cord.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ngwle1SpMN0/VXxmDIia13I/AAAAAAAADlk/9DQ8_Fk6MxE/s1600/IMG_1565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ngwle1SpMN0/VXxmDIia13I/AAAAAAAADlk/9DQ8_Fk6MxE/s320/IMG_1565.JPG" width="320" /></a>So I have cut my cheap poly taffeta for bodice, petticoat, sleeves and skirt (including the pleated francaise back). I chose cheap fabric because I wasn't sure I could do justice to a project this size and I just couldn't spend a ton of money on an abject failure (remembering the disastrous Edwardian tea dress here - no link for the obvious reason). <br />
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I managed to put everything on - pinned together and fraying - just to make sure that it did, in fact, actually fit. Here is what I learned:<br />
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- Wow! It is really shiny!<br />
- The bodice fits pretty darned good (there is a pin in the center back because it was a little big)<br />
and the creases mostly go away when I turn up the edge of the bodice.<br />
- The length of the petticoat is fine. I can do a little hem. I can now sew it up for reals including that 'doing a better job' part.<br />
- Wow, it is REALLY shiny!<br />
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Next, I need to start deciding what I want to do about the decoration. Because it is time to start decorating the stomacher and front of the petticoat. I have to wait for Robin to get back from travels to fit the sleeves and the pleated back. I'm just not THAT flexible. Not in stays. My dress form is useless for this because it is nothing like my body. It is smaller than my measurements but the shoulders and back are larger than me. An expensive hanger. But very helpful for deciding what trim combinations I like. So there's that.<br />
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Fun fact - if I wear rubber soled shoes and drag my feet on the carpet, I could probably electrocute someone in this thing. More to come soon.<br />
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Or not so soon. And since I wrote the words above, I've learned even more. Most everything needs to be hand sewn. It's just too fussy to do on a machine and would actually take MORE time. Getting the dress to hand correctly over the hoops is difficult. I would pin it on the dress form, baste it and hang it right side out. And it would be uneven. The pattern was not designed to be worn over panniers so I was on my own to figure it all out. Attaching the skirt to the bodice with the pannier sides sticking out didn't work as simply as I expected and I just kept pinning basting and ripping out. Eventually it was 'good enough' and I sewed it into place. One area of dismay was sort of hidden by the watteau pleats and another was in plain view but my sleeves were often in the way. The sleeves weren't as difficult as I'd expected. Only had to baste them in twice. For the record, at this point I was fully sick of looking at shiny ivory fabric and had started to pin trim on the dress. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m-sv6goKqBw/Vd8oC8cr54I/AAAAAAAADvg/Erz2lBnxWPE/s1600/ccc.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m-sv6goKqBw/Vd8oC8cr54I/AAAAAAAADvg/Erz2lBnxWPE/s320/ccc.JPG" width="320" /></a>First was trim on the petticoat (AKA the underskirt). My original color scheme and ideas had all flown the coop so I decided to put a large black band along the front and trim with ivory ruffles top and bottom. And I also added 3 big quilted ivory clubs between the rows of ruffles. I made the clubs by cutting the very ravel-y fabric with a soldering iron. I blanket stitched two layers of fabric around a layer of batting and then blanket stitched them to the front of the petticoat.<br />
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The sleeves flounces were attached before I sewed them to the bodice. Much easier that way. I wanted the trim at the base of the sleeve to be like the trim on the bodice. I tried about 5 iterations of black and ivory before I hit on the one I liked best. I had bought some 2 1/2 inch ribbon from the same fabric (in 3 colors) so i used that for most of the trim. I zigzagged some of the black fabric for a added contrast over the ivory. All the bodice trim was box pleated. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3q_gf1cyAGQ/Vd9iN7Y0VwI/AAAAAAAADv4/PtXxh7bc5nA/s1600/pslee.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3q_gf1cyAGQ/Vd9iN7Y0VwI/AAAAAAAADv4/PtXxh7bc5nA/s320/pslee.JPG" width="239" /></a>And I also experimented with crocheting little clubs and tacking them to the flounces. It was a great way to channel the original dress, although a gigantic pain because I had to make 36 of them.<br />
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For the stomacher, I wanted some color. The Queen of Clubs was originally the only Queen which held a flower. And the flower was often a thistle. I picked some ashy pink ribbon with green accents and made flower that looked like thistles and then I tacked them onto the stomacher. For much of this hand sewing I had an assist from our new kitten, Eggroll. He's adorable and cuddly and proceeded to knock over a large birdhouse and break his own leg (not badly). This is just a part of the reason the poor blog has been neglected.<br />
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I also sewed the stomacher to one side of the bodice and used hooks and thread loops to close the other. super easy cheat!<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CEjMUIpgZkg/Vd9kMLJUqGI/AAAAAAAADw0/khdvmyE3jvg/s1600/exp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CEjMUIpgZkg/Vd9kMLJUqGI/AAAAAAAADw0/khdvmyE3jvg/s320/exp.JPG" width="320" /></a>Last, and definitely not least, I added trim down the front of the skirts. I wanted to try painting fabric and had a clever idea to paint clubs on part of this trim. Problem was, I had to pin all the trim to determine where the clubs needed to go, and I needed to make a stamp because free-hand painting was a non-starter, AND I needed to check my paints to see which worked best. First I made a stamp out of thick craft foam backed with poster board and glued to a lipstick cover. This allowed me to get the most pressure without wiggling the stamp (and was also conveniently to hand). Then I did a test with the 3 paints I had available. Not all of them were stable after they dried.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yCD2tUk3gPE/Vd9kKbiLdAI/AAAAAAAADwo/k3DqhJVZ634/s1600/eek.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yCD2tUk3gPE/Vd9kKbiLdAI/AAAAAAAADwo/k3DqhJVZ634/s320/eek.JPG" width="320" /></a>While the paint was drying I started pinning trim. I'd like to suggest I just whipped right thru it, but I didn't. All the pink ribbon had to be gathered down each long edge and ruches. All the ivory and black trim needed to be box pleated as I pinned so I could figure out where the painted clubs would be. And then I would just get sick of it and have to walk away. <br />
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Once it was pinned in place I could jam some paper towels behind the fabric and stamp the clubs. I only screwed one of them up! Yay me!<br />
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I was happy with how it turned out but felt it needed some green in the bottom part of the trim (to go with the top). At this point, Costume College was a couple of days away and I hadn't started packing so I made some more leaves and tacked them in. No pictures were taken. I also decided to literally scrap together a mask from craft foam, spray paint on stick on jewels.<br />
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For the gala, I finally got to try it all on.<br />
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The wig turned out great, makeup was subtle (not bad for a first time through), and Robin took a picture that utterly disguised my wrinkles. Thank you Rob!<br />
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Also, a picture of how easy it was to sit down in this giant dress. I am not crying. I am laughing. A lot.<br />
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The gala was amazing. Lots of fun with lots of costumers. Robin didn't get a picture of the group but she did get a picture with Lauren from Americian Duchess. And I ripped a group picture from FB.<br />
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<br />Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-79277760938088558672015-07-28T12:41:00.000-07:002015-07-28T12:41:59.153-07:0018C wig - Lisa I'm making a wig for my 18C court/masquerade dress. I'm using the <a href="http://demodecouture.com/" target="_blank">18th Century Hair and Wig Styling</a> book to style my wig otherwise I'd be hopeless. I barely know how to dry my hair with a blow dryer. The book offers clear, step by step instructions and a list of the needed supplies. It's still not easy for me because I find setting hair in rollers nearly as hard as making a corset, but that's a personal problem.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rw7y01tewKM/VbfU4P2sGTI/AAAAAAAADtA/1fblnSG4WWk/s1600/w1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rw7y01tewKM/VbfU4P2sGTI/AAAAAAAADtA/1fblnSG4WWk/s320/w1.JPG" width="239" /></a>I started with a cheap cosplay wig. Mistake. For very little extra, I could have got a much nicer wig. My wig is too small, is very thin along the sides, and has little inch long hairs sticking out of the wefts. It <i>might</i> work if I was <br />
planning to cosplay Sephiroth but not really for anything else. Unfortunately I waited too long to figure this out and have had to make modifications because I don't have time to get an alternative.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sephiroth</td></tr>
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Too small - solution is to add elastic between the wefts. The book suggests adding elastic at the sides. I needed much, much more and cut all around the top of the wig and added between 3/4 and 1 1/2 inch all the way around. Yes, this created a gap. I added to areas where I knew I was going to have to add addition wefts of hair. <br />
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And then I just started pinning up hair. And spraying. Pin and spray (yes, there was also rinse, repeat). I won't repeat the instructions and violate the author's intellectual property. My biggest problem was that after sitting for a day or two, the pinned and sprayed hair suffered from entropy.</div>
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This meant unpinning, combing out and re-pinning in a tidier way.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wefts on table behind wig</td></tr>
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I chose to wrap the curls and boil them, then coat them with glue because of entropy. I only want to do this once. I used 1 inch PVC pipe wrapped in foil, dipped the wrapped curls for about a minute, then coated them with white school glue. Hair STILL worked loose. I has skilz!</div>
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More wrapping and pinning, spraying, undoing, wrapping, pinning. Eventually I sewed some of the hair in place.<br />
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Here are final pictures of the wig, fabric ornament and both with and without a feather. <br />
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It's not possible to see how tall the wig is by looking at it on the wig stand. It is at least 6 inches taller than the top of my head. The men in the house are still giggling. I have no pictures of it on my head because I just couldn't manage it.</div>
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The second biggest problem was the Sailor Scout cosplay sewing that was happening in the other room. I'm coaching them through this project, but making them do all (OK, <i>most</i>) of the work. To the right is my court gown. Nearly finished. This was supposed to be my 'Outside your Comfort Zone entry in the HSM, but I really think it's too costumey. So I'm just not putting in an entry.</div>
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I'm off to Costume College tomorrow. I plan to make Robin take pictures of me wearing dress and wig. We will have fun, and be back next week (when I may or may not add a picture to this post).</div>
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Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-73914617322636362292015-07-20T19:24:00.002-07:002015-07-20T19:24:50.125-07:00Lowell Mill Dress - LMy court dress is on a brief time out. Luckily (ha, snort, ha) I have another project to fill the time I don't have. I'm making the 1830's Lowell Mill pattern. It's not a complicated dress but the pattern makes it so much more confusing than it needs to be. Why? It's based on a real dress, originally made in 1827 and refashioned in 1836. Apparently the pattern assumes you want your dress to be exactly the same. Here are some of the odd things:<br />
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- There are 4 skirt panels that are different widths for no apparent reason with a center back placket cut in the middle of one of them. I cut 3 panels with a center back seam. Same total width.<br />
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- The center back has fabric that extends inches beyond the side back seam for no apparent reason than that is how the original dress is. Maybe the fabric wasn't trimmed during the refashioning? I am not cutting it that way. The bodice is lined and no additional strength or support is needed at the side back.<br />
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- The front bodice lining cutting instructions and layout show it cut on a fold, on the grain. But is also 'says' cut on the bias. The fashion fabric is cut in the bias and is shown that way on the pattern piece and in the layout. Confusing? Yes! The pattern company was contacted. No response. I chose to cut on the grain because I don't want to give my bust any extra opportunities for random movement or stretching.<br />
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- The pleating marks don't work. There is even a physical pleating gauge for the skirt that leaves your skirt 10 - 12 inches too big. Or I'm just really unclear on what their pleating diagram means (I'm not).<br />
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- The sewing instructions assume you are sewing by hand as with the original. 3 bodice fittings and two sleeve fittings are built in. And the order of construction doesn't play well with a sewing machine. So I'm flying without a net on this one. Imagine, if you will, pleating those gigantic sleeves and basting in the pleats. Then baste the sleeve into the armscye. All so you can fit the forarm and trim excess fabric. Next, you un-baste the sleeve and pipe the length of the (now fitted) sleeve seam. NOW you get to sew in the sleeve for real. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KOe74THbS3I/Va2qseRP9SI/AAAAAAAADsM/s9UvsqYoYkQ/s1600/Lowell.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KOe74THbS3I/Va2qseRP9SI/AAAAAAAADsM/s9UvsqYoYkQ/s320/Lowell.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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As I mentioned, the back of the pattern is big. <br />
Even for me, it's really big. I cut the back 2 sizes smaller than the front and did a FBA. I don't have a picture of the front in fashion fabric, but you can see from the lining muslin that the front has zero room to spare. where as the back has two inches plus on each side of the closure and a couple of inches at each side back seam. We took a little from the side seam too. I'd carefully gathered the fabric either side of the back closure, per pattern instructions and that entire part of the center back will be cut off.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O-3z9jcqAtA/VQcDjbtEJLI/AAAAAAAADdM/jYiK14v4z9A/s1600/mill%2B3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O-3z9jcqAtA/VQcDjbtEJLI/AAAAAAAADdM/jYiK14v4z9A/s320/mill%2B3.JPG" width="269" /></a></div>
Next post update I'll show the work on the sleeves. I don't want to get too confident in my pleating until I can make sure they actually fit correctly.<br />
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The one thing I didn't expect was that the pelerine would need a full bust adjustment too! OF COURSE it does. It goes over the bust. I made one. It's lovely and also useless. It's designed for an A cup. This isn't a joke. It will only work if I take giant darts. I'll try to remember to take a picture when the bodice is complete.<br />
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Now... back to the giant plastic court gown........Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-55590389930155422262015-06-04T08:27:00.001-07:002015-06-04T08:29:39.269-07:00I'm back and I've been busy - L<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I wrote a nice post right before I left for Paris and Morroco. I never published it. Just plain forgot. When I got back I had a full plate of costumes for the local kids improv group and cosplay for me and my son plus an assist with my daughter's costume. Been going all out since the day after I got back. Jet lag and all. Cosplay does amazing things to your hands!<br />
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Young Actors Worshop</div>
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This year I tried to scale back expectations and thought I only had 6 or 7 costumes to make. It turned into 18. The kids are encouraged to be creative and always toss me a challenge. Here are some of the fun<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ozinYkNHMxw/VXBj2wj3vvI/AAAAAAAADic/Jt5S6bQjIp0/s1600/churro.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ozinYkNHMxw/VXBj2wj3vvI/AAAAAAAADic/Jt5S6bQjIp0/s320/churro.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3-hgAg9aksA/VXBj4GNOLZI/AAAAAAAADio/p6TdWuJQA28/s1600/flr.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3-hgAg9aksA/VXBj4GNOLZI/AAAAAAAADio/p6TdWuJQA28/s320/flr.JPG" width="239" /></a>Two boys wanted to be churros. Their super-power? Lick them and you have 5 minutes of super sugar energy. They beat the evil psychic spy because she couldn't read their minds. They don't have brains. <br />
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There was also an evil alien and and evil sunflower. I have no idea why.<br />
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And reincarnation girl. She wanted a victorian dress with Egyptian jewelry.<br />
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And a kid with his own owl costume that hadn't actually fit him in years. I cut it horizontally below the zipper and added a 6 inch panel. Then I cut it open on each side and added a 4 inch panel on each side. The panels were muslin. The rest of the costume was fun fur. A little splatter with spray paint and you could hardly tell (from stage, anyway). I wasn't even sure it would work. I didn't get any pictures because i did it all the night before dress rehearsal when the kid told me about his problem (the ole' 'I can't actually fit in my costume' excuse)<br />
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My dining room table was a pile of animal costumes, kilts, superhero logos, robes, and I can't even remember anymore.<br />
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This is my last year working for them, Next year I will be a stitcher for another theater group and get paid. Paid poorly, but paid. And no more dealing with parents. Huzzah.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQ6NJxMq69c/VXBqeX2Zs8I/AAAAAAAADjw/MrBUt0wPi2s/s1600/jean.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQ6NJxMq69c/VXBqeX2Zs8I/AAAAAAAADjw/MrBUt0wPi2s/s320/jean.JPG" width="240" /></a>Then there was cosplay. This year we decided to all dress from Naruto. It's like the gateway drug of anime. Very comfortable. This is an important thing. We also reprised Attack on Titan because my son loves getting flattered by 'older' women (20 year olds). <br />
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All the Jiriaya and Tsunade clothes were based on traditional Japanese clothing which is mostly rectangles. I used the picture of a traditional haori as my inspiration. Kakashi was a t-shirt and leggings with ivory knit tacked over for the design. The bardes part was the wigs, with my son's shoes being the second hardest. They are boots with no toes. Also his legging wraps aren't wrapped. They are pleated fabric made into leggings. In Naruto, many characters have wide mesh on parts of their costumes. I couldn't find the fabric so I had to buy wide mesh stockings and cut them apart, That was very much NOT fun. <br />
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Mine is the Kakashi kneeling center front.</div>
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Arm bands - craft foam and scrapbooking brads on knit fabric, spray painted elastic at wrist</div>
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Cosplay hair. Bane of my existence.</div>
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And finally, mesh over tights for leggings. Had to do this for my arms, legs and chest.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BDgwzNKGhAM/VXBt0gd8R8I/AAAAAAAADkw/W8ickDcPVCI/s1600/Young-Kakashi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BDgwzNKGhAM/VXBt0gd8R8I/AAAAAAAADkw/W8ickDcPVCI/s320/Young-Kakashi.jpg" width="246" /></a>And some really bad reference pictures that I ripped off the internet. So now I'm back working on my 18th century court dress and the Lowell Mill Dress. No spray paint or hot glue required.</div>
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Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-25243439675096712872015-05-31T17:52:00.001-07:002015-05-31T17:52:37.770-07:00HSF/HSM April and May challenges all together - L<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qUlc8yGlWsU/VWushdVHY2I/AAAAAAAADh8/uD2-Hqyg0J0/s1600/socks.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qUlc8yGlWsU/VWushdVHY2I/AAAAAAAADh8/uD2-Hqyg0J0/s320/socks.JPG" width="320" /></a>The April challenge was War and Peace. I was going to just skip it since I ways traveling for most of the month but I really wanted to do each challenge, even if I was late. The very first thing that came to mind was socks. How often in novels have I read of women knitting socks for 'the men'. Specifically, I was thinking about the Civil Way, WW1 and WW2. And, of course, I knew I wouldn't be able to do anything big or complicated because of travel and other costuming commitments. I'd never knit toe-up socks so I chose that. This would give me a chance to make the leg part as tall as my yarn allowed. Of course I screwed them up. Sort of. I didn't watch the video tutorial about casting on that came with the pattern. So I didn't do the proper closed toe cast on. I ended up just sewing them closed. I knit them in a week, though I wasn't actually knitting every waking moment. Partly because of....<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qgn6vO2-m1o/VWusg2ePHjI/AAAAAAAADh4/eJnyjmRGnuU/s1600/DrawnStitch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qgn6vO2-m1o/VWusg2ePHjI/AAAAAAAADh4/eJnyjmRGnuU/s320/DrawnStitch.JPG" width="320" /></a>The May challenge was practicality. I didn't think I'd get it done. I figured the socks were practical and would have to make do. But I also really wanted to try a drawn thread hem (is that the right description?) for a handkerchief. I love the look of drawn and pulled thread embroidery and want to use it in an early 20th century summer dress someday. But I clearly didn't have time for a project that complex with a week left in May. Plus, I figured I should start on something small. A simple 14 inch square handkerchief seemed perfect. I pulled out 4 threads on each side. Each about 1/2 inch from the edge. Then I folded the hem twice and pressed it a LOT. Then it's simple but time consuming. Pull the thread thru the hem edge, wrap it thru around 4 threads at least twice. Put the thread thru about 4 threads of the hem edge and repeat. I was a little sloppy. Even though it isn't complicated it is incredibly fussy. <br />
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Next month is 'Outside your comfort zone'. So looks like it's time to get back to my 18th century masquerade court gown. Long overdue.Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-14932014800170625492015-04-02T10:14:00.001-07:002015-04-02T10:34:15.191-07:00HSF/HSM - stash busting - L<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QvpoiL3PLV8/VR11elOQ1II/AAAAAAAADg4/d--4QBdqTXk/s1600/IMG_9369.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QvpoiL3PLV8/VR11elOQ1II/AAAAAAAADg4/d--4QBdqTXk/s1600/IMG_9369.jpg" height="320" width="225" /></a>OK. I did it. I made the hand-woven thing wider. I'm still not ecstatic with it, but at least it looks like what it is. A shawl. I will it was about two feet longer but I didn't really calculate properly when I started. And, candidly, since this was some yarn that I got with a knitting machine about 6 years ago, I'm not sure I'd have had enough yarn. It's only about 6 feet long so it would be perfect for a 4th grader.<br />
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I am not a skilled weaver. I know I need to practice to get better. I am now realizing my epic hubris in choosing a novice project to show in the interwebs. C'est la vie.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">weaving two pieces at once</td></tr>
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I made the shawl wider than the loom allows by weaving two additional strips and crocheting them to the main body. The join didn't come nearly as 'clever' as I'd hoped (ergo no close-up).<br />
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I learned some interesting things. Use different weight yarns intentionally, and know what the effect will be. The cream colored yarn was slightly lighter and more stretchy than the blue. The result was an uneven fabric It was also very fuzzy. Weaving fuzzy yarn leads to broken yarn. Fixing a broken warp is difficult and tedious. Fuzzy yarn requires a different heddle. Shoving the heddle into the weave out of frustration isn't a good idea. Kick something instead. Weaving two pieces simultaneously was slower than I thought it would be but made matching the white strip a tiny bit easier. Trying to match plaids WHILE you are making cloth is just a BAD IDEA.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">uneven edge at bottom</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">done!</td></tr>
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I do want to point out that wiggly edges are the mark of a novice weaver. I managed to make some very wiggly edges. The crochet did a great job of disguising it. I tried to take pictures with the tripod but my exposure was utter crap. <br />
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Ultimately I folded it and hung it over a door. <br />
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Now I need a reason to wear it. It's actually pretty soft and comfortable. And not too warm.Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-981605498717484113.post-76482333798420106652015-03-30T01:24:00.000-07:002015-03-30T13:31:20.962-07:00Nereid - or stash busting monstress - L<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R33_mZin3Yo/VRmxa46rrmI/AAAAAAAADgY/VxdlPndKAG0/s1600/DSCN0619.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R33_mZin3Yo/VRmxa46rrmI/AAAAAAAADgY/VxdlPndKAG0/s1600/DSCN0619.JPG" height="320" width="208" /></a></div>
I had an urge to try out some of the new things I learned at Costume College so I'm making a Nereid costume. This meant a corset, a 'wave' skirt, a lacy shift, fish scale arm covers, a crab crown <strike>and ass-kraken 2.0 (maybe)</strike>. This is where I should show a picture of what I had in mind but I REALLY cannot draw. So I will just keep adding things when I have something to show.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2mxmnRJxbzk/VJGEI9ZZifI/AAAAAAAADRg/BLdgz3B9urI/s1600/shift.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2mxmnRJxbzk/VJGEI9ZZifI/AAAAAAAADRg/BLdgz3B9urI/s1600/shift.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a>First, the shift. I decided to use the last of some very fine cotton lawn and make a simple 'peasant blouse' type of shift with long lace at the end of the sleeves. It would be fun to have the lace around the neck too, but would make gathering the neckline nearly impossible without treading into clown territory. (no offense to clowns) The lace was from last year's LA fashion and fabric district field trip. I bought it because it was cheap. I still have lots and lots. I expect I will find myself wearing this shift and watching costume dramas in bed simply because it is fluffy and frilly. And yes, those are hand stitched eyelets.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wRHa_uX2lvA/VJGEHd1xllI/AAAAAAAADRY/Y9t7oaqCJ8U/s1600/armor.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wRHa_uX2lvA/VJGEHd1xllI/AAAAAAAADRY/Y9t7oaqCJ8U/s1600/armor.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a>Upper arm armor is cadged together based on a post <span id="goog_152461773"></span><a href="http://www.dragonflydesignsbyalisa.com/apps/blog/" target="_blank">Alisa Kester</a> put on the Shear Madness Facebook page. One day I will learn to keep notes when knitting the first of two matching objects. That day I will become an adult..... <span id="goog_152461774"></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_DLNVQJmtc8/VRmm1d2Zv6I/AAAAAAAADe4/BrzZovTaP9E/s1600/DSCN0626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_DLNVQJmtc8/VRmm1d2Zv6I/AAAAAAAADe4/BrzZovTaP9E/s1600/DSCN0626.JPG" height="320" width="241" /></a>The scale is to go under shoulder armor. The armor is made of painted craft foam and a chopped up juice bottle. Decorated with wire, moss, shells and scrapbooking brads.<br />
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I have straps that are <i>supposed</i> to buckle in front and keep the armor on my shoulder. Sadly my shoulders really ARE too small. I will need to move the d-rings on the corset to keep the shoulders up. This is will done later. About the same time I finally make the holes in the straps to allow them to buckle. I can't do that until its all fixed. Despite a few problems, I still really like how it came out.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-db8NusIKxK8/VJGEIV0FPoI/AAAAAAAADRc/64LLvY1ESbk/s1600/neried.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-db8NusIKxK8/VJGEIV0FPoI/AAAAAAAADRc/64LLvY1ESbk/s1600/neried.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a>My corset is made based on the <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=27" target="_blank">Truly Victorian 1880's corset pattern</a>. I really want to do some beading after learning the basics in a Costume College class. The plan is to make creatures found on rocky shores as decoration. Except crabs. Because I have plans to add crabs elsewhere. I'm using up some duck canvas remnants from JoAnns. My store always has canvas remnants that are at least 3/4 yard. I'm using two layers of canvas for the main structure with no lining (laziness) and a pleather remnant for the two front and back panels. This is my first Victorian corset and I'm being shockingly lazy about good fit. I want to make a good quality Victorian corset some day and I figured it was about time to give it a try and get my mistakes behind me. First mistake - the corset shrinks as you add boning channels and boning. Modesty panel will be needed. All in, I thought it was pretty straight forward. January will be my 'real' corset month. I am really long forward to having a corset made to fit ME. Short waist, small back, big boobs. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Octopus beading in progress</td></tr>
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Beading. I will do beading. On the corset. An octopus and some sea stars. Sea stars have been gone from the California west coast for over a year because they all got a virus and died. They are trying to make a comeback. I miss them. (gratuitous science comment) Update - sea stars are NOT gonna happen. At least not anytime soon. I overbooked my brain. i beaded onto brown broadcloth and then stitched that onto the corset. I also decided to make something fishy for my hands. the pieces are made of beads and sequins on muslin with net covered elastic to hold it on. <br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Sm3WNJw6ChA/VRmjrbSN7ZI/AAAAAAAADek/vExZ83Q57y4/s1600/DSCN0623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Sm3WNJw6ChA/VRmjrbSN7ZI/AAAAAAAADek/vExZ83Q57y4/s1600/DSCN0623.JPG" height="360" width="400" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1bLeqLLZ6eI/VRmjs3SxllI/AAAAAAAADes/Q5ioVww6l2U/s1600/fish.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1bLeqLLZ6eI/VRmjs3SxllI/AAAAAAAADes/Q5ioVww6l2U/s1600/fish.JPG" height="200" width="164" /></a><br />
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And now the skirt. It will be the death of logic. I had a great idea in my head. Organdy waves. I could try a fishing line hem, use up some fabric that was a non-starter for it's original purpose. Here is my 'curl the fishing line' anti-tutorial. When the internet says you can wrap the line around toilet paper rolls and nuke it... no. Just no. Do yourself a favor, wrap it around PVC pipe and dip it in boiling water. In the microwave, you have about one second between 'hot enough to curl the plastic' and melty disaster. Also, the 1/2 inch pipe makes the curls tighter which is good. When you zig zag it to fabric that curl stretches out a lot.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lQ2fOC2vp9I/VDfKvciyPcI/AAAAAAAADQk/qgzJPZGSD4A/s1600/notrim.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lQ2fOC2vp9I/VDfKvciyPcI/AAAAAAAADQk/qgzJPZGSD4A/s1600/notrim.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">NO!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uNVewLJZkAs/VDfKvU_oLrI/AAAAAAAADQg/3dAMeUNLOtY/s1600/trim.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uNVewLJZkAs/VDfKvU_oLrI/AAAAAAAADQg/3dAMeUNLOtY/s1600/trim.JPG" height="119" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">NOT this either!<br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"> My first fishing line hem! It worked! But it doesn't look like I want it to. I added trim underneath it. Still not working. So now I'm re-thinking my plan. I have some new ideas along the line of natural form era skirts. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WInezt0-Qe4/VPsacwU3Y0I/AAAAAAAADak/vzSusS8qprE/s1600/nfront.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WInezt0-Qe4/VPsacwU3Y0I/AAAAAAAADak/vzSusS8qprE/s1600/nfront.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9VsKu-qHn_c/VPsabwKK-JI/AAAAAAAADag/8OHnfNRxwWw/s1600/nbeck.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9VsKu-qHn_c/VPsabwKK-JI/AAAAAAAADag/8OHnfNRxwWw/s1600/nbeck.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back</td></tr>
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After two months of noodling around in my spare time, I'm finally getting to something I kind of like<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1urIpFHBzjI/VPsaeL-b1PI/AAAAAAAADa8/a0WXbSqyH3c/s1600/nleft.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1urIpFHBzjI/VPsaeL-b1PI/AAAAAAAADa8/a0WXbSqyH3c/s1600/nleft.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left long pleats </td></tr>
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Polyester organza is the devil itself. It is stiff and stubborn and frays if you even <i>look</i> at it. I'm still finding long strands of it stuck to my clothes. It does look amazingly shiny and ripple-y in flash photos. All the front pleats had to be hand tacked because they are on the bias and no amount of pressing (including vinegar and rajah cloth) would make those pleats stay put. The side pleating was just slightly more cooperative. I haven't decided about the back. It's love/hate.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KzqnIlEGrls/VRmqROjJO5I/AAAAAAAADfM/Lbf2-Fx1PVw/s1600/DSCN0604.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KzqnIlEGrls/VRmqROjJO5I/AAAAAAAADfM/Lbf2-Fx1PVw/s1600/DSCN0604.JPG" height="320" width="270" /></a>I also added some 'netting' made of gold cotton crochet thread. It's macrame. I haven't done THAT since the 70's.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mN1t5nPIasA/VPsadcsIhxI/AAAAAAAADao/UeRk3z7CcjY/s1600/nh2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mN1t5nPIasA/VPsadcsIhxI/AAAAAAAADao/UeRk3z7CcjY/s1600/nh2.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a>Hat - Crab molts, melted plastic, sculpey and some seaweed. This hat has been stewing in my brain for quite a while. I've got the armature with sculpey bones done and baked. The crab is an actual crab molt (shed) with spray foam inside for support. I also sprayed some foam in molted claws. And I made seaweed out of plastic. Melting didn't work like I expected despite being enormously fun. I used strips of medium weight plastic and stretched it at the edges. Then I used glass paint of make a little detail and spray painted over it. I also used glass paint on some bright green plastic (shopping bag). The detail shows thru on the clear side. The next step required Robin to help me pin it all together. After that, I just tacked and glued until it all stayed together. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-72OccuRMZuQ/VPsadafZp0I/AAAAAAAADa4/Q_kDeWsJojE/s1600/nh.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-72OccuRMZuQ/VPsadafZp0I/AAAAAAAADa4/Q_kDeWsJojE/s1600/nh.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parts</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x8XrI_oP5Dk/VQcDj_j6VcI/AAAAAAAADdQ/L5pGR_KKByI/s1600/hat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x8XrI_oP5Dk/VQcDj_j6VcI/AAAAAAAADdQ/L5pGR_KKByI/s1600/hat.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pinned</td></tr>
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This is the part where I admit that I have better pictures. They are trapped in a machine with no power. The power cord is in the mail because I left it in Los Angeles. I has a stupid.<br />
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Following are a bunch of pictures of the costume in action. We hurried down to the beach to get pics before the sun blasted thru the marine layer. And it just isn't easy to get things 'just right' when you're in a hurry. And joggers have stopped to watch.<br />
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Thetis, nereid, queen of the shore and mother of Achilles.<br />
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Costumed in a Victorian style (you can call it steampunk but I'm not feeling love for the local steampunk community right now).<br />
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Lisa and Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17857077701513254469noreply@blogger.com5