Friday, September 28, 2012

Tail Bodice and sick days

I have been in bed, sick for a week.  During that time, I did a little sewing, but not much.  I sewed trim to my bodice by hand.  Since this bodice is bag lined and some of the trim is thick, I decided this was the best solution.  As a reminder, here's what I'm working on:
1883 Tail Bodice
This is the Truly Victorian Tail Bodice and I'm really excited about my progress.

I started with this maroon and black print in polyester.  I'm lining the tails in burgundy, the sleeves in black, and the main part of the bodice in burgundy canvas.  Why?  Because that's what I had laying around.  The goal of this bodice is to channel my inner steampunk witch.  Much of that will be achieved with accessories, but I needed an elegant 1880's bodice as a foundation.

This has been a game changer for me in many respects.  I caved in and bought a full corset.  It fits better than I expected, and really makes the silhouette better.  I also caved in and bought a 'perfect pleater'.  I love pleats.  I hate hand pleating.  I'm too impatient to make them even.  It's also the first Victorian outfit I've made without fitting help.  Which is challenging.  My dress form is NOT a good representation of my body.  It can't be forced into a configuration that mimics me. So far everything is working out.....

 I made a muslin, and then cut fabric and lining.  I sewed together the lining and used that for fitting.  Now I'm sewing together the actual bodice and adding the trim before I add the lining.  It's been interesting.  I had bought some black lace, beading and braid, knowing I would find places to use it.  And this is definitely the place!  I made a tube of black lining, pleated it, and sewed it to the bottom edge of the front with black braid.  Then I added some beaded fringe to the bottom.  I was going to use the same trim around the neck, but the pleating seemed like too much (I know, I know, never too much in Victorian dress).  So around the neck I'm just using two rows of braid.

Since I will mostly wear this to Steampunk things, I added pockets to the front.  I also added a couple of sewn-in D-rings inside the lining so I can attach gear as needed.

I opted to use a less 'assertive' beaded trim on the sleeves.  Beads catch on everything and I didn't want them getting in my way.

For the record, the sleeve opening are very large.  (or I have really tiny wrists)

I am modding the collar to look more like Maleficent, extending over my shoulders but up and curled.  Pictures soon.  I keep making samples and they keep being to small.

Once all the trim is sewn and the collar attached, I'll sew in the lining and sleeves.  Then I have to wait to get some collar wire to hold that collar in shape.   In the mean time, here is what the bodice trim (and welt pocket) look like: