Regency Dance Dress and Turban Finally Finished! - Robin

 Here's the final product of my first Regency foray. After making the stays and the dress last year, I had yet to finish the closings and the hat. Such a procrastinator! But as we have a Regency Ball coming up at the end of February, I got myself in gear and finished.

The dress is from Simplicity Costumes 4055, unmodified except for fit. The back is not historically accurate as I was only interested in getting something together to dance in. I ended up with too much back and overlapped it with double buttons.  Originally I had used hooks and eyes, but they popped open the minute I moved. The bow closes with hook and eye so it will hang correctly while dancing.

Now that my hair is l-o-o-ng, I really don't want to style it because all the curls will fall out the minute I sweat, so a turban was the answer.  But which one?? The answer came from a Costume College class Lisa took - Easy Regency Turban. However, mine was NOT that easy.  Here's why......

The back of the non-historic dress

The not-so-easy Regency Turban

starting the weave

the body of the hat

laying out the stripes

 I made the material for the turban out of ribbon bonded on to Pellon. The stuff I had was a bit stiff but I did it anyway. For the band,  I did it in stripes and machine embroidered the edge lines.  For the body of the turban, I wove the ribbon into a plaid that Lisa called "Sort of a Space Invader Plaid". This was a technique I saw in Threads Magazine a while ago and had wanted to try on something.  Evidently this should NOT have been the project to try it on.  This turban is supposed to be soft, malleable.  Mine is decidedly NOT. At first, all I could think of was "OMG, I look like a deranged Baker!", but as I sewed on the feathers and the jewel (from a hair scrunchie), I began to feel kinder towards it.  I will get some fake hair to make into tendrils to attach to the inside of the hat to frame my face, but as of now, it is wearable.  And by the way, the dog did not eat the pattern until after I had finished the turban. C'est la vie!

embroidery on the stripes

Another win for cosplay! And finally a sewing day... - L

I got another third from the awesome Shear Madness judges for Attack on Titan.  This was for making things out of unusual materials.  I thank them for letting the definition of the challenge slide to include 3D maneuver gear.  I'm pretty sure the intent was to make clothing out of something other than fabric.

My offspring are now signed on to making their own stuff.  The boy will learn to sew!  I start everyone on pajama pants because if anything can wrap your head around how a garment gets put together, it's PJ pants.  And this means I can sew for me again!


I have a few things lined up shortly; a 30's tea dress, pattern testing a different 30's dress (pattern has a bust 10 inches too small so should be interesting), a victorian shift, a Regency dress, AND some cropped pants for late fall when Robin and I are off to Burma.  Because we haven't gone adventuring in a while.

I also want to make a men's Regency outfit and a victorian riding habit.  Then a natural form dress.  Also a victorian corset.  No problem.

Here's the result of hours of work to grade up a pattern by 8 to 10 inches.  It is just possible to see all the bits that are taped together in my  tea dress pattern.  When you made a pattern bigger you have to 'grow' it from the inside out.
The pattern is from VPLL and each dress typically comes in only one size.  I love it cause those aren't sleeves.  They are 'capelets' and are sewn on over the shoulder.  I have a bold floral rayon that will either be really pretty or '70's tablecloth meets The Blob'.


Robin got her Regency bodice right.  It's the Simplicity 4055 based on Sense and Sensibility pattern.  S&S patterns just don't fit us right without a little tweaking.  The back was too big in both our muslins but that's an easy and quick fix.

I want the regency dress for Costume College.  And the tea dress if I can swing it.  So yesterday Robin and I had our first sewing day in, well, forever!  We each had Regency muslins to fit, and I had a 30's muslin.  She had a 30's tracing (and a good thing too since it was too small through the shoulders).  We got it all fit including darts and hems.  I'd forgotten how much I missed sewing days. Now to cut fabric.....   This means more pictures and patterns; more blogging!  Also vacuuming and cleaning other cat detritus from the cutting floor.

Shifts and Centaurs - Lisa

I did a lot of things this week.  It feels good.  Robin and I went to the SF Opera sale.  I got all the stuff in the pictures plus some fabric for VERY attractive prices.  It's all wool and velvet and no item was more than $35.  Cloaks, skirts and coats.  (That red coat makes me think FLYING MONKEYS!)

I made my shift for both Regency and for my 18C court dress. Historically, they are NOT the same.  No one sees my underwear.  And I can always make a proper 18C shift later if I have the time (and the will).  I made a lot of mistakes.  And I didn't follow the important rule.  Once you start f-ing up, put it down.  I just kept going, and making mistakes.

I also made kid costume progress.  I made the centaur's hind end.  I made the lollipop foam base.  And I made a list of measurements because....  Someone is coming over to help today!  Cutting out fabric, batting, plastic net support, and gluing!

Here's a picture parade of progress:

 Shift - I used a free online pattern (basic shift).  I used some amazing sheer cotton lawn.  This meant I actually had to flat fell the seams for structural support.  I hand sewed eyelets.  I accidentally cut the neckline too big in the back and had to patch it.

The neckline is just rolled with a cord running thru.  Now I can put on all the 18C underthings so I can cut a petticoat.  Just a simple under-petticoat that goes over the pocket hoops.  And then, gulp, I have to figure out the dress.  I can also finish the Regency stays.

I also made the centaur.  It required patience.  And glue.  Wheels to legs.  Legs to heavy plastic mesh body.  Zip ties.  Foam.  More glue.  More waiting.  Cover in batting.  Wrap and tack fun fur.

Seems so simple when I type it....
Oh, and stuff a janky old wig into the foam buttocks to serve as a tail.  Most of the structure was stuff I found in the group's storage unit.  And the wig.  Hurray for scrounging.  And I even remembered to take pictures.  During the waiting, I cut and glued a big round foam lollipop (yes, another costume).

Today I plan to cut and glue the fabric for the Jar of Mayo, Corndog, Lollipop, Slice of Cake.

These are just fabric backed with a couple layers of batting sandwiching a layer of heavy nylon netting.  Twill tape and plastic tubing are the support.  Light weight and allow these kids to go to the bathroom easily.  Well, fairly easily.

There is another large circle glued over, and a face hole cut at the dot

HIND END DONE.
Except for hooves.

Call to arms! (or fingers) - what's coming up ahead

With the Renaissance behind us, we can settle down and look at what we want to do for the next year.
Yes, we did this earlier in the year, but we changed our collective mind.  In order of interesting-ness, here is what we have planned:

We joined the Court Gown Project at Demode Couture.  We are a little scared.  A lot of the other participants are leaps and bounds above us in skill and knowledge.

We decided to target fantasy/masquerade dresses inspired by playing cards.  Our inspiration dresses are purely that... Inspiration.  Color, and detail (and shape in Lisa's case) will all be modified.   Robin will be the (non-Alice)  Queen of Hearts and is using this dress as her inspiration:

Lisa will be the Queen of Clubs.  She chose a picture from a Victorian masquerade idea so she will need to make it into a Court gown.  Since green was the color of clubs (in France a longish time ago) she picked a soft green poly/silk taffeta. And since the Queen of Clubs was also the flower queen (often thistle) she is sneaking peaks at Mme de Pompadour who wore lots of flower embellishment.

We are thinking about making paper wigs.  OK, Robin is definitely making a paper wig.  Lisa is thinking about it.

Lisa is drafting patterns for pocket hoops from Corsets and Crinolines and we're looking at dress and underthings patterns.
Target completion:  Costume College 2014

ALSO, we plan to make Regency dresses, from the underthings out.  And men's clothes to go with them because of the Tall Ships Adventure.  Costume required.  We are looking at this silhouette because we think the lower, more fitted waist will be more flattering.  We will also make a spencer or pelisse.

All super easy.  We'll just whip these out without a hitch.




But before we can even start, there are just a few things left to do to clear the decks:

Robin:  Finish the trim on her lavender Dickens dress, and finish the trim on her Renaissance dress (which may be sidelined due to being utterly sick of it by now).  She also needs to finish making her Pirates of the Caribooban outfit for Halloween.


Lisa:  just spent a week making pirate garb for the Young Actors Haunted House which raises money and happens during the HMB pumpkin festival.  She made 5 vests, 5 sashes, 4 headscarves, 4 distressed pair of pants....  nevermind, she doesn't even want to TALK about pirates right now...
Then she needs to make a costume for the offspring

because it's Halloween.  She will be making Conner Kenway from Assassin's Creed.
She will be drafting the coat pattern.  She has NO IDEA how she will do this.  Especially since her model is a 12 year old boy who cannot stand still.

Once this is done Lisa will make the linen lounge pants from the Decades of Style pattern.  Then start on the long postponed AntEater dress and her TV riding habit.