Demode Court Dress - SHINY and all in one place FINAL UPDATE - L

New pictures added below.
 Queen of Clubs.  All hope is not lost.  I've made a lot of progress in the last few days and have decided to re-assemble most of my posts in one place.

The Demode Court Dress for CoCo meet-up was delayed by one year.  This was a very good thing for me.  I had originally thought I could drape this without a pattern.  I now know this was wrong.  Maybe another time.  This is my first attempt at anything earlier than 1850 and I went right for something remarkably difficult.  Not only that, though, I chose an inspiration dress that is a victorian fancy dress.  I'm on my own to figure out how to make all the trim look 1770's.  Or even something sorta kinda like that.

 Last year I made stays and giant pocket hoops.  I also made a chemise.

Earlier this year I caved in and got a pattern.  Mill Farm.  I got it because it was cheap and I knew that I'd have to do a lot of modifications.  While the shape of the pattern is accurate, I find it confusing.  More confusing than it needs to be, mostly because there are no pictures or drawing in the instructions.

Step one.  FBA.  I couldn't find any help online for increasing bust volume for this kind of dress, so I made it up.  It actually worked pretty well.  Robin helped me fit and there were only modest changes.  But I was laced too tight.  When I checked the second muslin it was too small.

I 'fixed' it again and went ahead and cut.

I also cut organdy for an under petticoat.  I used Kendra's post for help in getting it put together because I really had NO IDEA.  None.  Pretty sloppy the first time through but it worked and won't show at all.  I promise to do better with the proper petticoat.  Really.  I have a picture but is is trapped in a device with a broken power cord.

So I have cut my cheap poly taffeta for bodice, petticoat, sleeves and skirt (including the pleated francaise back).  I chose cheap fabric because I wasn't sure I could do justice to a project this size and I just couldn't spend a ton of money on an abject failure (remembering the disastrous Edwardian tea dress here - no link for the obvious reason).

I managed to put everything on - pinned together and fraying - just to make sure that it did, in fact, actually fit.  Here is what I learned:

- Wow!  It is really shiny!
- The bodice fits pretty darned good (there is a pin in the center back because it was a little big)
and the creases mostly go away when I turn up the edge of the bodice.
- The length of the petticoat is fine.  I can do a little hem.  I can now sew it up for reals including that 'doing a better job' part.
- Wow, it is REALLY shiny!


Next, I need to start deciding what I want to do about the decoration.  Because it is time to start decorating the stomacher and front of the petticoat.  I have to wait for Robin to get back from travels to fit the sleeves and the pleated back.  I'm just not THAT flexible.  Not in stays.  My dress form is useless for this because it is nothing like my body.  It is smaller than my measurements but the shoulders and back are larger than me.  An expensive hanger.  But very helpful for deciding what trim combinations I like.  So there's that.

Fun fact - if I wear rubber soled shoes and drag my feet on the carpet, I could probably electrocute someone in this thing.  More to come soon.

Or not so soon.  And since I wrote the words above, I've learned even more.  Most everything needs to be hand sewn. It's just too fussy to do on a machine and would actually take MORE time.  Getting the dress to hand correctly over the hoops is difficult.  I would pin it on the dress form, baste it and hang it right side out.  And it would be uneven.  The pattern was not designed to be worn over panniers so I was on my own to figure it all out.  Attaching the skirt to the bodice with the pannier sides sticking out didn't work as simply as I expected and I just kept pinning basting and ripping out.  Eventually it was 'good enough' and I sewed it into place.  One area of dismay was sort of hidden by the watteau pleats and another was in plain view but my sleeves were often in the way.  The sleeves weren't as difficult as I'd expected.  Only had to baste them in twice.  For the record, at this point I was fully sick of looking at shiny ivory fabric and had started to pin trim on the dress.

First was trim on the petticoat (AKA the underskirt).  My original color scheme and ideas had all flown the coop so I decided to put a large black band along the front and trim with ivory ruffles top and bottom.  And I also added 3 big quilted ivory clubs between the rows of ruffles. I made the clubs by cutting the very ravel-y fabric with a soldering iron.  I blanket stitched two layers of fabric around a layer of batting and then blanket stitched them to the front of the petticoat.

The sleeves flounces were attached before I sewed them to the bodice.  Much easier that way.  I wanted the trim at the base of the sleeve to be like the trim on the bodice.  I tried about 5 iterations of black and ivory before I hit on the one I liked best.  I had bought some 2 1/2 inch ribbon from the same fabric (in 3 colors) so i used that for most of the trim.  I zigzagged some of the black fabric for a added contrast over the ivory.  All the bodice trim was box pleated.



And I also experimented with crocheting little clubs and tacking them to the flounces.  It was a great way to channel the original dress, although a gigantic pain because I had to make 36 of them.

For the stomacher, I wanted some color.  The Queen of Clubs was originally the only Queen which held a flower.  And the flower was often a thistle.  I picked some ashy pink ribbon with green accents and made flower that looked like thistles and then I tacked them onto the stomacher.  For much of this hand sewing I had an assist from our new kitten, Eggroll.  He's adorable and cuddly and proceeded to knock over a large birdhouse and break his own leg (not badly).  This is just a part of the reason the poor blog has been neglected.

I also sewed the stomacher to one side of the bodice and used hooks and thread loops to close the other.  super easy cheat!

Last, and definitely not least, I added trim down the front of the skirts.  I wanted to try painting fabric and had a clever idea to paint clubs on part of this trim.  Problem was, I had to pin all the trim to determine where the clubs needed to go, and I needed to make a stamp because free-hand painting was a non-starter, AND I needed to check my paints to see which worked best.  First I made a stamp out of thick craft foam backed with poster board and glued to a lipstick cover.  This allowed me to get the most pressure without wiggling the stamp (and was also conveniently to hand).  Then I did a test with the 3 paints I had available.  Not all of them were stable after they dried.

While the paint was drying I started pinning trim.  I'd like to suggest I just whipped right thru it, but I didn't.  All the pink ribbon had to be gathered down each long edge and ruches.  All the ivory and black trim needed to be box pleated as I pinned so I could figure out where the painted clubs would be.  And then I would just get sick of it and have to walk away.

Once it was pinned in place I could jam some paper towels behind the fabric and stamp the clubs.  I only screwed one of them up!  Yay me!

 I was happy with how it turned out but felt it needed some green in the bottom part of the trim (to go with the top).  At this point, Costume College was a couple of days away and I hadn't started packing so I made some more leaves and tacked them in.  No pictures were taken.  I also decided to literally scrap together a mask from craft foam, spray paint on stick on jewels.






For the gala, I finally got to try it all on.

The wig turned out great, makeup was subtle (not bad for a first time through), and Robin took a picture that utterly disguised my wrinkles.  Thank you Rob!

Also, a picture of how easy it was to sit down in this giant dress.  I am not crying.  I am laughing.  A lot.









The gala was amazing.  Lots of fun with lots of costumers.  Robin didn't get a picture of the group but she did get a picture with Lauren from Americian Duchess.   And I ripped a group picture from FB.

VPLL 1912 Mantle, 0189 - L

 (this post will be a compilation of many posts on this project)
Next up on the VPLL 1912 project is the Spring Mantle.
It's a straight forward build with a lot of fussy work pleating the trim around the edges.  I chose it because I think it would make a cute casual jacket for everyday using modern fabric.  The challenge for me will be making the pattern fit my body while maintaining the proportions.  I did a quick set of measurements from the actual pattern and compared them to my measurements (which don't include wearing ease):

Bust    37.5          Me    47.5
Hip     39.5          Me     43
Back   16.5          Me    16
Upper arm  15      Me    15


So I'm a lot wider than the pattern (no surprise there!) except across the back.  I could only estimate the width from the edge of the gusset though and I will want some ease so I'll add there, but only a little.  Most of the add will be in the bust and hips.  I'll add the bust volume in front but have to spread the hip add around the bottom.  I need to do this without making the waist too baggy.  And I think the solution will be to add darts under the arm where they won't interfere with the kimono sleeve.  The only darts in the pattern are two small darts at bust height in the center front (under the trim).  I'll keep those too.

Sleeve length from neck is 23 inches.  That takes the sleeve to 4 inches above my wrist bone.  I want to add about an inch there but will wait until I have a muslin that fits my torso in case the FBA changes the sleeve length a bit (it shouldn't but, yeah...)
The angle where the sleeve meets the body of the jacket is different in front and back.  I'm curious how that will hang.  I will make sure and maintain the angles in the muslin.

The body of the jacket is nearly the same length as the sleeve and looks to hit my upper hip.  I would like it longer, but will wait until I've done the FBA and hip adjustments to figure out how much.  This pattern is just a single piece cut for right and left with a seam in center back and under the arms.  There is an underarm gusset for ease.  It will be a BIG challenge to modify without turning it into a big baggy mess.  I may have to add underbust darts too just to keep some shape.

For fabric, I picked a pewter linen hopsack fabric that promises to ravel like crazy.  The lining will be an ivory with embroidered black spots (textural).  The trim will be a soft black lightweight cotton.  I think it will look good with a slacks or a skirt and still be perfect with jeans.

Part Two - THE FBA and associated modifications

I've done full bust adjustments before, but never actually followed the really cool process that you can find on the internet.  And NEVER with a kimono sleeve before.  After reading Leila's fantastic post on the subject, I decided I would give it a try.  I took a lot of camera pictures to demonstrate my process.
Are you ready?

The original pattern piece.  Yes, I already cut it up, but I've shoved it back together neatly.

Per Leila, if the sleeve is removed, a routine FBA can be performed.  I held the pattern piece up to my body and determined that the center front was 3 inches from MY center front.  So I need to add that to the pattern.








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Here is the sleeve, cut off.  The red arrow is the width of my shoulder (a logical determination of where the sleeve should start).  I used the slash line for the gusset as an under arm indicator and just drew an approximate armscye on the paper.
In addition, I've marked my bust point on the pattern.

I cut straight up from the bottom of the pattern to my bust point.
The grainline marked on the pattern was a great guide.

Then I measured about 1/3 up from the underarm (per Leila) and cut from the bust point to that spot.  BUT not through.  I will need that to stay connected!
Then I separate the pattern by 3 inches at the bust point.  (Remember - I needed to add 3 inches!).  I know it looks crazy, but breasts have volume.  You need to add width and length.  This actually will take the bust point out, not the down that it appears.

If I had a dart, I would cut from the center of the dart into the bust point (BUT not through!).  In this case I don't.  As I mentioned above, with a larger chest I think I need to add one.  So I just picked a logical location and cut in to the bust point.  Again, it needs to stay attached!  The I pivot the lower side to be parallel to the center front.  I made a red line where I pivoted and then another to show where the pattern needs to be parallel.  You don't need to worry about the distance between the parallel lines, just that they are parallel.

 Now you may have noticed that the center front portion is shorter than the side front portion.  Simply cut straight across that center front leg of the pattern (perpendicular to the grainline) and bring the lower part down to match at the front hemline.  It's hard to see here because the front is curved.  There's a red line to show the location of my cut.

That's it.  Done.  All that's left is to put some tissue or paper into the gaping open spaces.  Then you have a new pattern piece that should fit you.  I am so awesomely confident!  I haven't cut my muslin yet!

 Here it is with some striped tissue paper glued in.  Just for contrast.  I also messed around with altering the angle of the curve down the front.  My current plan is to cut the top of the curve 'as is' and leave extra fabric at the bottom of the curve.  That would let me alter the 'V' impression in the front and have less of a gap in the lower front.  Not a part of me I plan to emphasize.

Next up, re-attaching the sleeves.  Urg.  Sleeves are my nemesis.

Here is the main pattern piece.  I have moved the sleeve back into the general vicinity of where it came from.  Hmmm.  No match.  Please note the perplexed look on the sleeve's face.

By adding volume with a bust dart, I've curved the armscye too much for a kimono sleeve (IMHO).  Next plan (thanks Robin) is to shift the bust dart to a french dart.  That should help.  Also, instead of worrying about making the sleeve piece fit back in, I'm going to recreate the underarm angles I saw in the original pattern.  I can use the lower half of the sleeve piece to preserve the arm trim placement which is cute.  I need to make sure I make the sleeve length appropriate for me, and for the look of the pattern.


Out comes the scissors and tape, and its time for dart changes...AGAIN.

I slashed the pattern two inches lower than my first dart, taped closed that first dart, and added tissue for the new one.  The new dart starts about an inch above my waist even though it doesn't look like it.  I also added about an inch in the length in front (I held it up and determined the front was too short, relative to the back).

I taped in the sleeve and made a muslin.  Sleeves were too tight.  I cut the pattern from neck to wrist down the shoulder line, and added about an inch.  Then I cut another muslin.

Was I tired of it yet?  Oh, yes!  I always struggle at this point.  It's so easy to just saw 'good enough' and start cutting my fabric.  But there is no point in making something that doesn't fit, or fits so badly that I'll never wear it (recall that I want to do a modern take on this pattern).


Here is the final muslin, front and back:

 I'm pretty happy with this.  I'm wearing a tank top AND a light weight cardigan under the muslin to make sure that it will actually function as a jacket (worn over a blouse or other top).  For the record, it's very difficult to take a picture of your own back in a mirror with a phone camera.  I held it pointing over my shoulder and 'hoped'.  Its tough to see, but I also pinned out a bit of the flair at the lower back.  I just didn't like it.  Next I cut my fabric.  I'll post a picture of the final muslin that I'm using for a pattern as a comparison to the original pattern piece.

Here is the final pattern piece laid out to cut, with the original pattern picture next to it.
The red circles highlight the only structural changes I made.

The large circle shows the dart I added as part of my FBA and the small circle shows another tiny dart that took up some volume in the neck area (the muslin just wasn't laying flat).  Separately, I added a bit the the center front lower curve in case I want a little more belly coverage.  If I don't like it, I can trim it off before I add the trim. Here's what it looks like after I leave the room for a moment.  Looks my 4 legged helper had a slide...

The gussets...  I finally read the instructions AND other participants posts.  I get it.  I was confused because the gusset is CUT as a square.  But SEWN as a triangle.  I simply slashed the fabric and top-stitched two sides of the square over the slash.  Did that on each side of the arm and then sewed right up the middle of the gusset fabric.  Trim the extra fabric once you're done!  I really think some simple illustrations would help the pattern instructions.  Forgive my crooked stitch lines.  Those embroidered dots are thick and sometimes would knock me off course.  I'm happy this is the lining.  See!  The shell was more even!

I've decided to bag line the whole thing so I'm going to attach the top line of the trim to the shell, and then wrap the bottom of the trim into the seam as I sew on the lining.  First I have to make the trim.  About 10 yards of bias trim.  Tedious!  Then gather the long sides top and bottom.  More tedious!  You just can't gather more than about a yard at a time without risking knots and tangles and failure.  Once I'd made about half the trim I gathered it and attached some to the cuff.  Step by step next, but I wanted to show the result.  (I'm very happy with this). AND I'm having 1,001 problems adding to this post.  I'm going to start a new one taking up where this one left off.  Clearly the interwebs are telling me this post is too long.  See you again in a moment!

 

February Sunday Sewing Bee or Finessing the Fitting - L&R

Lisa and I have scheduled a sewing day once a month for this year.  So far, we are sticking to it because we have so many projects going and so much fitting to do. Normally, we have two machines going, but I'm taking Lisa's in to the shop (the dealer is closer to me) and my other machine was set up for embroidery, so we made do with one. We turned the dining room into a factory and set to.




 First up, we worked on our Titanic Tea Dress muslins.  The pattern is from Sense and Sensibility and looks easy on the surface, but fitting the bodice is NOT easy. The front and back are all of a piece so adjustments often come with some unexpected side effects elsewhere. For mine, I tried to increase bust and lengthen it, but the way I did it gave me too much material under the kimono sleeve. We ended up using the original muslin with no FBA and adding length to the bottom, the easiest solution for me.

Lisa, in attempting to have enough material for her full bust, cut a size too large for her shoulders, but had a great fit for the FBA.  Instead of recutting, we glued fabric on to the muslin to get a shoulder line that wouldn't fall off her VERY small shoulders.  This is the beginning of the Franken-bodice.

My problem was that I had to add a lot of room for bust coverage plus length in the torso.  I ended up adding too much in the bust area so after angling the bust line and not having success, I removed a chunk of length and added it UNDER the bust.  You can see the glue lines and the vast difference this fitting made.  
Now we are ready to cut in to the fashion materiel - but not today.  Today is for fitting.
Actually we had cutting the fabric on our list of 'to do' but we just didn't have time.  We don't need each other's help to cut.  But we do solve problems together much better than alone.  L.

Material and pattern pieces adorned every surface. We had bolts of muslin and scraps, our Titanic fabrics, the Frock Coat Lisa is making for her S.O., a 1940's muslin, a Ren Corset and Lisa's 1912 lace-insertion slip (needed button holes and my machine is the resident button hole master.

Rob plays with fabric.

I made 12 buttonholes, sewed on 12 buttons.  I sewed together enough of the frock coat to be able to fit the shoulders and back-side seams.  I fit my Titanic bodice (about 6 times with cutting and gluing between each fitting) and then cut a final version.  And I did a first 'look' at a renaissance corset (see below). L.

Ugh!  I cut this out according to the measurements listed on the envelope and this muslin is just... big. Lisa keeps reminding me that envelope information is only a suggestion.


I love the intricacies of the draping but the only place to alter is on the sides and in the back.  Lisa gave me deeper back darts and took the sides in about 4 inches total. We wondered why it looked so dumpy and Lisa was considering even fitting alterations when we had an epiphany - We hadn't accounted for shoulder pads!!! Argghhh!

Now, I have pretty "strait across' shoulders, but this design, without shoulder pads, makes me look slope-shouldered. Below you'll see a shot of the pattern envelope and the solution.

Notice how the fit changes on the left (to viewer) side once the
wadded-up T-shirt stands in for a shoulder pad? It gave the shoulders
much needed form.  I'm still not the same shape as the fashion
rendering, but it makes the dress less dumpy on me. Hopefully,
the polka dots of the fashion fabric will fool the eye around the tummy area even more than the draping!

We also fit a muslin for Lisa's Renaissance corset and decided that she needed to cut a size 6 back and try to mate it to the existing size 20 front - those dang narrow shoulders actually are part of a very narrow back!  We redrew the offending back pieces.  Once Lisa gets the muslin pieces somewhere in the correct size territory, she'll cut out a new muslin of canvass or something that won't stretch to test the final fit before using fashion fabric.  In the meantime, I've decided to make "fitting lacings" where you have lacing grommets on a twill tape that can be stitched to whatever corset you are trying to fit.  I think we can both use this and it beats the heck out of trying to guess where it'll end up.
I'm just going to take a second to whine.  I really have the oddest shape.  It is really hard to fit.  Even when I was very thin, I couldn't find clothes that fit.  Now that I'm heavy, it's insane.  My weight is not evenly distributed.  But to end on a positive note, I am forced to learn a lot about modifying patterns.

All in all, a most productive day after which we were, again, both exhausted.