Failure IS an option - Titanic - L

The bodice for the Sense and Sensibility pattern (S&S going forward) is not a difficult build, but it has a lot of drape so I need to get it right.  My first attempt at the modified pattern didn't work.  I got the 'volume' correct for the bust, but I didn't add enough length.  I'm going to add in more and ask Robin to help make sure the fit is accurate.  It's difficult to hold the back in place while trying to make sure the front fits.  It would be helpful to be Doctor Octopus at times.
This is when you are supposed to schedule a ladies room fitting after work, ya silly git!

Meanwhile, a large part of my brain is churning through options for embellishment and how much that will impact the basic bodice design.  And also pondering dealing with using the bird in my freezer as part of a hat (no worries, it was dead when we found it).

And, for the record, it is 100% illegal to catch, kill, or collect songbirds in the US.  Why?  Because we nearly killed off many species specifically to make hats!  I'm on a shared permit to collect dead via a beach volunteer group I'm in.  I really probably shouldn't have kept the bird in the freezer.  For myself.  And yes, crows and ravens are songbirds.  Now I'm off to read up on taxidermy.

Our Sunday Sewing Bee - R

Our sewing bee on Sunday was a success.  Of course we scheduled waaay too much "stuff to do" in one day, but I'm proud of all we got done.  In return for my machine embroidery of Lisa's black work for her Ren chemise, Lisa helped me cut out my Ren chemise and farthingale.  Her house has an area where we can lay out a huge swath of fabric all at once, however, I hate her iron because it doesn't steam enough!  And you know what's really great?  Finding out you made a cutting error on a nearly finished garment and trying to figure out how to compensate without do-overs.  Cause I did, and I did!


These sessions leave us exhausted but full of the feeling of accomplishment while reigning in our admitted procrastination/time waste tendencies.

Titanic Project (but not the 1912) - L

We signed up for the 1912 project.  The facebook page is open-sourcing at its best.  We can't wait to get our first pattern.  BUT, since we don't know what that pattern will be, and if it's something we'd actually want to wear, we decided to go ahead and make dresses from the Sense and Sensibility Pattern.  There are events in SF related to the Titanic anniversary and we wouldn't want to attend in less-than-appropriate attire.

We got some very robust coupons from JoAnns and went on a fabric buying binge.  Oddly, we both really liked similar stuff.  Normally I trend to dress like the maid.....  Anyway, I suspect we will have to claim 'twins' or just stay far apart.  As usual, though, we don't care!

Here is Robin's choice.  The picture didn't come out well.  The color is 'celadon' and is really flattering.  We both have embroidered lace overlay.  I think we will be able to differentiate ourselves with embellishments.  Also, Robin is staying focused on the green for both layers and I'm all over the place.  We'll both be dying some linen that Robin has in her stash for our underlayers.  You can see the pattern in this picture.

When I bought the pattern, I was so enthusiastic that I forgot to buy the 'DD' add-on.  I'm going to have to wing it again on the bodice.  (although DD doesn't really help - I'd have to add on anyway due to fat).

I went with a dusty rose color with ivory.  I plan to make my underlayer out of a medium grey. I put a grey scarf under the fabric to demonstrate but it is actually quite a bit darker than what I have in mind.  Tsunami (sewing cat) decided she's a good match.  Ed (the spider eating cat) would have claimed Robin's fabric but I chased him off.  She's allergic; he has wicked, fabric eating claws.

Last night I traced the bodice pattern and 'guessed' in some modifications.  As usual, I cut the back to my size, and expanded the front to one size larger.  Then I added an inch and a half of length in the front and about 3/4 inch at each dart.  I will try and cut a muslin today and see how I did.  If it's a disaster, I will re-trace and actually take measurements. I can always toss the muslin AND the traced pattern.  The center panel gives me a lot of leeway in this construction.  I think.
Only one question...does the bodice stop directly under the bust, or in that nebulous region betwixt bust and waist?  Do I get to decide?

You get to decide where your underbust ends up - where it looks good on you! I can't really tell where it should be from the fashion plates of the time as we know they elongated the body just as we do, so just put that where it looks best on you.  Mine will probably be somewhere around the sternum just to have some separation between boob and underboob.

LOVE this boring costume - L

We're going to the Edwardian Ball in SF tonight (the entertainment night vs the actual ball).  All I have left to do is sew on some buttons and iron my blouse.  I'm really happy with it.  I realize that this event will be full of amazing, over-the-top outfits, and I will be dressed like someones maid.  I shouldn't be excited about this, but I am.  First, this is the outfit I was aiming for when I first created something to wear to a Steampunk event.  It embodies my ideal 'scientist', and I needed to make it properly.   Second, being large and flabby, I am just not comfortable showing a lot of skin.  Finally, I'm getting a chance to wear my homemade black hat again.  It lives in the odd region between 'hat' and 'fascinator'.  And it has real raven's claws on it (legally collected) and is crocheted from black wool.  A crocheted midi top hat.
(I'm totally channeling Jenny from 'A Good Man Goes to War')

Here's a more close up view of the top.  The sleeves are actually quite full from the shoulders and are pleated into the forearm. They just aren't ironed yet.  And I need to press/steam the tie.  It's vintage, from my grandfather. I will ask Robin to take pictures tonight when everything is as done as it's gonna get.  I wasn't sure I was actually going to get there.  After she did my buttonholes, I thought the rest would be a breeze.  I was so very wrong.  I had to hurry and.....yes I made mistakes.  I'm not going to fix them.  And yes...as usual, it's the sleeves.

Why are sleeves so demonic?

Here's a lower sleeve, pinned and ready to be sewn.  It took longer to pin and press, and a LOT longer to stitch down than I thought.  I stitched both sides of each pleat.  I got so caught up is pleating that I forgot that sleeves should be mirror images, not the same.  Didn't realize until I had them stitched.  I don't think it's terribly noticeable though.  AND I checked the size by wrapping it around my arm.  Of course there was a lot more 'give' in those pinned pleats than there was in the finished sleeve.  I had to undo the 'side seam' near the wrist by a about an inch and a half more than I planned so I have a decent range of motion (and roll the edge by hand).  I also added some lace at the bottom for length (and for pretty).

I have decided to name the blouse Ripley.  I watched Alien as I pinned and sewed.

Finally a picture of the pattern I used for this blouse.  Remember, I changed the sleeves to full at the top with tapered, fitted forearm.  Made the collar fit taller and more close to the neck.  Added length, added to the bust, raised the darts and added pleats down the front.  This is the only the second time I've flown this far off course with a pattern and not had a total melty.  Also, who's idea was it to call a pattern 'Kwik Sew' that has a two piece collar, fitted darts, and cuffs?

The Fine Art of Finishing - R

You've seen the pics of the Victorian Outfits, but what you don't know is that I'm not happy with them.  After dancing in the ballgown, I shortened it and the petticoat by one inch.  I stepped on it constantly and so did everyone else. Also, the corset was never finished. I shortened some of the bones (believe it when the instructions say to leave 1/2 inch of "wiggle room" for the boning, you will need it) and sewed the satin edging on. I just hated that frayed edge look.  Of course, the corset is almost too small for me now, so I'll either have to make another or lose the weight.  As I hate the thought of making another corset right now, I think I'll go on a diet! It's not hard to make a corset, it's hard to make a corset that fits properly.

As for the boyfriend's Frock Coat, I don't think I'll ever be totally happy with it, but there are some hem issues that need to be addressed. I don't know why/how the lining is pulling the hem up in a funny way and I hate the thought of unpicking all my hand sewn stitches, but it needs to be done.  Heavy sigh.  I'd much rather make something from scratch than fix something. All I can say about that coat is "I learned a lot". Another heavy sigh.

I need an outfit...quick! - L

A while back I had made a black Victorian style skirt because the idea of it was hammering my brain.  And I started the muslin for a bodice to go with it.  And the bodice is stalled.  I know how to fix it, but I'm not sure I'm still as in love with the idea of it.  The Edwardian ball is this weekend and we are planning to attend on Friday for the 'carnival'.  I really wanted to channel a more steampunk attire so I decided to make a vest and shirt to wear with the black skirt.  Then I can add some gadgets and accessories.  Months ago I had modified a vest pattern to wear with a corset.  Due to my shape, there was extensive modification required.  I grabbed a faux suede remnant that I got super cheap (a dark reddish brown) and whipped out this vest.  I even added a welt pocket.  I'm really proud that the modified muslin worked right the first time!  (I added 5 inches in the bust and took out 2 inches at the waist - which means the original pattern was clearly NOT what I should have been using).  In fact, it fits me much better than the dress form shown here.

Next I started making a blouse.  I have a pattern for a plain

blouse with fitting darts front and back.  Outside of that, it's not really what I wanted.  So I modified again.  I wanted to added pleats in the center front, and I needed to add boob-room.  I also wanted the collar to fit snugly at the neck rather than the pictured 'open button casual' fit shown in the pattern.  Here's what I did.  I took a piece of muslin and pleated it like I wanted the the center front pleats.  I laid the pattern on the muslin so that the pleats would be where I wanted them in the blouse.  In addition I added a large (2.5 inches total) fold in the muslin at the shoulder area (adding for bust).  I cut the pattern over the pleated muslin.  I used the largest size on the pattern for everything except the collar and shoulders.  That way the collar was a good fit and the shoulders wouldn't be too big since I'd added for the bust.  I modified the armscye on the fly while cutting.  I unpleated the muslin and used it as my pattern (marking for pleat location).  I'm not done yet, but everything seems to fit.  The photo is the actual front of the blouse with pleats.  Robin is going to do buttonholes for me today and then all I have left is side seams and sleeve decoration.
I made the sleeve extra wide and am going to pleat it around the forearm.  All this must be done by Friday evening.  I will seriously try and take pictures of the whole outfit.

So, overall, I decided to try and make something in a very short amount of time, and modify patterns extensively while I was doing it.  So far, so good.  My goal is to look a bit like Madame Vastra's assistant in Dr Who (A Good Man Goes to War).  With a hat, but not a sword (just because I don't have one handy)

Machine Embroidery Blackwork or An Exercise in Patience - R

 I'm supposed to be doing all the blackwork embroidery for our Renaissance stuff.  This is the first time I've used the machine since it got its tune-up and that makes a world of difference. But I didn't want to tell Lisa that the reason I was stalling was that I couldn't find the right parts to do this!  I had no idea where the embroidery card was, no idea where I'd cleverly stashed the hoops.  It took me two solid days of office cleaning to find those missing items so that I could even begin the experiment.

 Here are two sections of blackwork butted together.  You can hardly see the join.  I'm not sure why this design stitches slightly off-center, but it does.

I stitched out a few samples so Lisa could choose what she wants on her chemise and I'll bring them to her tomorrow.  This time, all went well. I've been dreading this for such a long time because of the last disastrous use of the embroidery machine had me ruining the silk on my corset and recutting. Thank goodness these chemises will all be made out of muslin, so I'm not so worried if things go wrong on a piece.  

Ah!  That's what all that 'I'm busy filing' was about.  NO ONE has that much filing.  I can't wait to see them, and also, I'm going to need your help with buttonholes...this week.  I'm making a vest and blouse that I will post soon.

I do too have that much filing and I still have a pile left to do, but it IS true that I can't find stuff in my sewing room.  And today I find that YOU'VE got my buttonhole measureing device that I've been searching for for weeks.  Yarrgghhh!   You left it at my house sweetie!!