VPLL 1912 - progress on the Princess Slip

I finally got a couple of uninterrupted hours to start working on the slip.  Since I modified the top front beyond recognition, I had to spend some time figuring out how to put everything together.  And since I wasn't sure how it would fit (I'd held the grocery bag pattern up and hoped), I could sew shoulder or side seams without a fitting.  And it was difficult to decide where to put the front lace without shoulder or side seams.  And round and round.
Finally, I just started.  The beaded lace at the neck is just pinned on since I want to sew it around the neckline all at once.  I got the pintucks made on  one side and will finish tonight.  I think I'm only going to use gathers at the bottom.  Also, I'm starting to suspect that the bottom of the 'top' will not be level.  I'll need to shorten at the side seams and maybe a bit in the center to avoid bagging around the waist.
Next step is to figure out placement of shoulder seams and side seams.  I'm going to do it while wearing it.  Should be interesting.

My plan is to pin the shoulders and side seams and mark where I want the armscye.  If I use bias binding around the arm hole, I don't have to try to figure out 'fit + seam allowance' plus it will look and feel better. I have a clever plan to add a sort of flap at the shoulder and attach lace.  If it works, it will add the illusion of wider shoulders to balance the rest of me.  Pictures soon!  
This is my first ever try at pin tucks and insertion lace.  I also used french seams everywhere there isn't lace.  Haven't done that since the 60's when I was a fetus.

I still need some ribbon for the beading, and some small buttons for the back.  I need to cut the lower front.  And then I need to make about 9 yards of pleated flounce with a lace insertion.  And there goes my long weekend!

I've added a very blurry picture of the back.  Showing off my tiny french seams.  I only had a little 'leakage' in a couple spots.
I also finished the vest and will try and start the frock coat this weekend.  Also, maybe go outside and get some exercise.

1912 Blouse for Dummies - VPLL 1912 Project

Our first pattern - Blouse EO191.  We made this to the pattern size since neither of us thought we would wear it as it wouldn't be flattering.  We made it up in white muslin, with the trim pieces in beige dotted cotton that we had laying about.  We wanted to make it fully lined and with most of the finishing (everything but back buttons).  We were not able to do any fittings during construction.  Apparently we are giants, and our smallest dress form was perfect except its neck which is HUGE.  The lack of arms was a problem too...
We are re-learning sewing after modest experience in our youth.  We opted to try to follow the instructions as written and write about how it worked for us.  Some of the instructions confused us, but we expected that.  Some of the choices we just didn't like and would do differently if we were making it for us.

Trim
Sleeve trim - sewing the bottom of the trim to the sleeve with a small turned-under hem would not be our choice although it may be the easiest choice with the curved hem.  We thought self-facing would look a lot nicer.  There are no instructions for attaching the top of the trim piece so we top stitched it to the sleeve.  Depending on the fabric used, there are doubtless better ways to do that too.

Neck trim - We chose to double the fabric because our fabric was very thin.  We needed the extra body, especially with the beads.  It didn't meet in the back, even though we took slightly larger pleats in the front of both the blouse and the lining.  This may be because of placement.  We aren't really sure.  Others didn't seem to have this problem.  It didn't lay flat on the shoulders once we put it on the blouse.  The blouse itself lay smooth on the dress form and the lining matched well.  Again, it could be placement, and solved by moving the trim higher up the neck.  We couldn't test that due to the dress form limitations (linebacker neck) and my unwillingness to make my 10 year old son cross-dress for this project.   And then the binding, the binding that  kicked out butts.  This is very obvious at the point in the front.  It's not symmetrical top and bottom.  We know what we did wrong.  We chose not to fix it and call it an awesome learning experience.  Here it is without the blouse.

Sleeves
They seem to stand out from the body and cant forward.  We assume this is period styling.  They went in easily using the pattern markings, although we had no ease (even though the pattern suggested we would).  When we sewing in the lining, we sewed it right under the binding added at the shoulder.

Blouse body and lining

We re-folded the pleats out of personal preference.  We took about an inch of additional volume out of the top.  We sewed the binding strips to the shoulders before we we sewed the side seams which was easier but not nearly as tidy looking after we sewed the side seams.

The lining had us stumped at first.  We started by lining it up at the neck and it just didn't fit.  It was far too small.  We un-pinned it and started over at the arm scythe and everything matched right up.  Thing is, we ended up having to trim quite a bit of fabric from the lining at the neck opening which made it too big.  We added a couple of pleats on the inside and it looks nice.

Too Large

Too Small

From the inside

We didn't like the blouse bottom finish in the front.  We thought a narrow binding strip over the gathers would look a lot better.

Finally, we really liked the little basque in the back.  We thought it would look a bit silly, but really ended up liking it.

Not Surprising -
The drawing of the blouse is much longer and leaner than the actual garment.




This took us 7 hours from cutting to final press and pictures.
One adult beverage (each)
About a '4' on the profanity scale (primarily due to the $*#&$ binding).
We planned to finish this in a day but we were pleasantly surprised when we actually succeeded.

Victorian drawers and chemise - R

Today I want to make some Victorian "drawers" and a chemise to go with my Vic outfit from previous posts and I wanted to do it all in one day. That didn't quite work out.
I cut out the pantaloons (Laughing Moon Victorian Underwear patter) for the split crotch design, wondering how this would work in reality, using my measurements to decide on the pattern size.


I added 2 inches to the length.  Here are the bottom pleats sewn in. I found it strange that there was not more of a seam allowance/hem allowance allowed, only 1/4 inch. That doesn't leave much room for turning under twice.  Bear in mind that most underwear was french seamed and really finished well, no exposed edges, because they were brutally laundered.

I added a lace trim because they were still too short for me.

Here you can see the two pieces joined at the center front, overlapping.  The pattern said to overlap one inch but that did NOT give me the coverage I needed, so I increased it to a two inch overlap.

The waistband came with no provision for finishing the ends of the tubes.  My advice would be to make the waistband several sizes larger to accomodate an overlap in the back and to allow for turning under (twice) the ends of the waistband tube/casing.  These things barely made in below my knees (that's what happens when you try to measure yourself) and the crotch was too short.  I'm going to make up a new pair knowing what I know now.  Good thing these are made of cheap muslin!

I started the chemise and, irrationally, decided I had to have lace trim, so I dove into my stash that is destined for my Renaissance dress and 'stole' some lace.

I hand basted it in, then put the lining over it and sewed it down.  Unfortunately, I forgot to sew on the side with the hand basting showing through, which would have made an excellent guide. Instead, I ended up sewing it twice as some of the stitching didn't catch the lace.  Live and learn.

I like the trim. Being a novice, I've never actually sewn trim in.  I usually add it after the garment is sewn.

There is no way I can finish this thing all in one day!  I have to stop sewing and get on over to Lisa's house so she can help me dress for the Victorian Ball. Then, tomorrow, I'll already be at her house for our 1912 Project sew-a-thon.  To Be Continued!

The pattern calls for little tucks on the front and back chemise pieces.