Monday, February 6, 2012

Victorian drawers and chemise - R

Today I want to make some Victorian "drawers" and a chemise to go with my Vic outfit from previous posts and I wanted to do it all in one day. That didn't quite work out.
I cut out the pantaloons (Laughing Moon Victorian Underwear patter) for the split crotch design, wondering how this would work in reality, using my measurements to decide on the pattern size.

I added 2 inches to the length.  Here are the bottom pleats sewn in. I found it strange that there was not more of a seam allowance/hem allowance allowed, only 1/4 inch. That doesn't leave much room for turning under twice.  Bear in mind that most underwear was french seamed and really finished well, no exposed edges, because they were brutally laundered.
I added a lace trim because they were still too short for me.

Here you can see the two pieces joined at the center front, overlapping.  The pattern said to overlap one inch but that did NOT give me the coverage I needed, so I increased it to a two inch overlap.

The waistband came with no provision for finishing the ends of the tubes.  My advice would be to make the waistband several sizes larger to accomodate an overlap in the back and to allow for turning under (twice) the ends of the waistband tube/casing.  These things barely made in below my knees (that's what happens when you try to measure yourself) and the crotch was too short.  I'm going to make up a new pair knowing what I know now.  Good thing these are made of cheap muslin!

I started the chemise and, irrationally, decided I had to have lace trim, so I dove into my stash that is destined for my Renaissance dress and 'stole' some lace.

I hand basted it in, then put the lining over it and sewed it down.  Unfortunately, I forgot to sew on the side with the hand basting showing through, which would have made an excellent guide. Instead, I ended up sewing it twice as some of the stitching didn't catch the lace.  Live and learn.
I like the trim. Being a novice, I've never actually sewn trim in.  I usually add it after the garment is sewn.

There is no way I can finish this thing all in one day!  I have to stop sewing and get on over to Lisa's house so she can help me dress for the Victorian Ball. Then, tomorrow, I'll already be at her house for our 1912 Project sew-a-thon.  To Be Continued!
The pattern calls for little tucks on the front and back chemise pieces.

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