I'm not dead yet! - L

We have been a bit lax in posting recently.  There are a couple of reasons, and some of them are really good!  Robin has been sewing all out in an effort to meet deadlines.  She really wants to have ''his and hers' Elizabethan outfits ready for the end of September.  She has a lovely vacation planned between then and now.  CAN SHE DO IT!

Lisa is busy finishing stuff for VPLL 1912 Project and working on her Elizabethan dress.  I am really enjoying it, but it doesn't appeal to my aesthetic so I'm rarely motivated to post about it.  Then again, I did make some incredibly silly flea furs for us.  I had posted their body and head construction earlier and here they are in a very bad iPhone pic.  Gilded and bejeweled.  I particularly like the diamond teardrop fangs.

I have also started making my sleeves.  Here are two of the panels totally completed.  There are 3 panels per arm and they are sewn together at 5 or 6 points and decorated with jewels or buttons.  I guess I could also add ties (points) but that's just TOO busy for me.  Once I've made all six panels...seriously... 6... I'll go back to decorating the front piece that goes under the skirt. And decorating the sides of the front skirt panels.  That will just leave the bodice and a head covering.  These folks were nuts.  They make Victorians look like Puritans.

And Robin has donated this picture of the slops she's made her beau.  He's game.  Many men would run screaming.  His doublet is next up in her queue.

1850's bonnet and Elizabethan sleeves = L

I've been shifting between projects and trying to get get a few things done so I can wear them to events.
First, I finished my 1850s dress, but needed a hat.  I tried to modify an old raggedy sun hat but that was a fail.  The shape was all wrong. So I used a decorative hat from Michaels.  Round crown and 4 inch brim.  Cheap.  I cut the brim loose from the crown around about 2/3 of the circumference.  I steamed the brim to match the angle of the crown.  I folded the loose edges under, sewed them and trimmed them.

And it came out pretty cute.  For a bonnet.  If you're into that (which I'm not).

Then I moved on to the Elizabethan project.  So much to learn and do.  I got all my underthings done, so I have the correct silhouette.  I made my skirt and cartridge pleated it to the waist band.  I need to hem it and trim it.  I will need Robin to help. (Neither one of us can get our dress dummies to look even remotely like our normal selves, much less anything corseted...) I also need to make sleeves and a bodice and a front panel inside the skirt opening.  And decorate the snot outta them. Not really my strong suite but I get the idea.  My skirt and bodice are dark blue.  My front panel is ivory, My sleeves are burgundy.  Very faded patriotic I just realized.

The dark blue used to be curtains.  The ivory pintuck fabric I got on sale.

Here go the sleeves - made from a poly satin remnant on sale and a heavy cotton remnant on sale.

There are three long panels.  Each panel attaches at 6 points with decorative buttons or ties.  That will be nearly 40 buttons.  *($&*#    They attach at the should with functioning ties. I want them to be very fancy.  I tried out a couple options using the giant pile of trimming stuff I've been accumulating for this project.

I sampled pearl strings, velvet, gold braid, beads, pearls and 'jewels'.  The option on the right won.  The cat is optional.  In fact, that's a nearly finished panel.  The color on the left is more accurate. I also agreed to make 36 buttons for Robin BEFORE I discovered I need nearly 40.  They take longer than I thought.  And I'm making us flea-furs.  I made the bodies ages ago along with sample buttons (see They Mate for Life).  I also made little paper clay heads.  I used Rub 'n Buff to make them look gold and I'll hot glue some jewels on their heads.  Fancy!

And finally.....
progress on the VPLL 1912 project blouse.  Very shabby pic and I'm stuck until I decide what I'm doing about the 'embroidery' on the collar, cuffs and peplum.  Also a sample of the lead contender for embroidery.

Got 3 things done - L

I finished the petticoat with two layers sewn to a single yoke.  I really like the idea and execution, despite the fact that it drove me crazy! - scroll to the end for the final picture:  Yoked Petticoat - Part Two

I finished the 1850's day dress (final picture at the end).  I didn't go into too much detail on this.  Robin has done this pattern and blogged it before.  As always, fitting the bodice was my big issue.  I did learn how to do piping and that was kinda fun:  1850's Day Dress - L

And last, but certainly not least, I finished the Skirt 0162 for the 1912 project.  I'm really happy with it, and wish I got better pictures.  Black on black is SO HARD to photograph!
VPLL 1912 - Skirt 0162

Now I'm starting the VPLL 1912   Blouse 1000.  I scaled up the pattern.  Every single piece needed changes.  And it is not possible to just 'cut the pattern bigger'.

Here's an example of the back.  I've changed it from a wee, corseted 1912 figure, to a modern 'robust' square shaped gal.

I'm cutting a muslin because there are so many changes I have no idea if it will even look like a blouse anymore.

OK, OK, I could have cut the muslin already, but I got talked into a snuggle.  My ancient, grumpy sewing cat....

Fitting Marathon - L & R

Imagine, if you will, fitting multiple garments from multiple eras....  It was a whirlwind of activity as we took advantage of the July 3 early close in stock markets to fit everything that we were working on.  Every surface was piled in fabric.  The floor was scattered in pins.  Robin's foot was a sad and pained thing that swelled and throbbed.  And we got a LOT of stuff done.

What we did, and what we learned while doing it:
Lisa:
Petticoat - multiple layers sewn to a yoke for mid 19th century outfits.  I'd sewn the top layer including lace on the bottom flounce and just needed to attach it to the yoke.  Robin pinned it to the yoke, allowing a level hem.  We also experimented with a 'bum pad'.  Yes...I pinned a throw pillow to my butt..
1850's skirt - with the petticoat pinned, the skirt hem could be pinned.  Well, actually the waist.  We both had already trimmed near the bottom of our skirts, following the plaid, so we adjusted the hem at the waist.
1850's bodice - THIS was interesting.  Being small boned but fat, I cut the back of my bodice roughly 5 sizes smaller than the front.  I expect to have problems matching shoulder and side seams as a result.  I had already fit a muslin and cut and sewn a new one.  So this should have fit nearly perfectly.  HOWEVER, when I was sewing the new one, I couldn't remember if I'd matched the shoulder seam at the neck or armscye. I chose to match at the armscye leaving excess at the neck (we're talking 2 inches of excess).  When I put it on with all my underthings, NOTHING FIT RIGHT.  Poor Robin! (When she does stuff like this, it makes me doubt my initial fitting abilities, thinking "I can't be THAT bad, can I?" until I find out that she's jacked up something on her own  Dude!  I didn't jack it up!  It is entirely impossible to know what to do with all that extra fabric. It wasn't THAT BIG the first time.) Luckily, before too much had been done, we decided to re-stitch the shoulder and our optional bust dart and see what happened.  It was all the difference.  Seriously.  Suddenly, everything fit.
Elizabethan underthings - I finished them.  I put them on.  The farthingale was too long so I'm taking a big tuck all the way around between two hoops.  The corset straps needed grommets, so Robin marked where they were supposed to go and I put them in (and yes, one of them is backwards).
Elizabethan bodice - Robin had taken my measurements and I compared those to the pattern.  It seemed odd and didn't make sense.  I decided to cut the pattern size that went with my corset size and add a bit to the seams on the front and side back.  Turns out I didn't need them, and Robin pinned them out.

Robin: I'd taken the train into the city so that we could both use one car to get to Lisa's house. I lugged my cage crinoline, petticoat, corset, drawers and chemise just for the fitting of the Victorian stuff. I also had to carry my Vic skirt and bodice plus the Ren corset.  Talk about a pack mule.  With my slowly healing foot, carrying that stuff almost killed me.  And then, the fitting sessions did me in entirely.

Lisa adjusted my Vic skirt from the waistband. Adjusting it over a hoop skirt that sways uncontrollably is a nightmare.  I had to take frequent "foot elevation" breaks,which slowed the process.  Adjusting from the waist is a total pain in the fanny (and the foot) but sometimes it's the only way.  Standing still while someone fits you is pure torture, with or without injuries.  We were so tired we forgot to take pictures of Rob's skirt - but you can get a glimpse of the plaid here. (And WHAT is that LOOK on my face??? You'd think I'd discovered something nasty in my tote bag!)

The Vic bodice was interesting.  I was worried that it would be too tight in the back as I'd made 3/4" seams there, but Lisa ended up taking it in even more in that area (Rats!  I'll have to take the piping out to resew that!)

The Ren corset was easy as it was only strap placement. (Except that Lisa get the right shape and I just become a cylinder cuz my ribs won't squish and there's not much room between the ribs and the hip bones )All in all, it took us 5 hours, but it had to be done in order to continue our projects. We were mentally exhausted but pleased.  And I just LOVE my pink binding on the Ren corset! (Worn here with Victorian underthings.)

1850s day dress - L

My skirt is nearly done!  I have it cut, sewn, trimmed and hemmed.  All that's left is a placket and waistband.  We have decided to have an impromptu sewing day tomorrow to do some fitting.  I'll stand in my petticoat and skirt, and Rob will pin the waistband in place ( leaving me with a level hem).  It's really the only way to hem a plaid skirt so that it doesn't look crooked.  The bodice muslin is sewn and we can do the final fitting.

I'm experimenting with ribbon flowers on the trim, and thinking about what kind of trim I want for the bodice and sleeves.  I was thinking about both pagoda and bishop sleeves.  Robin is making pagoda sleeves, so I'm going to go with bishop sleeves.  There are fewer trim decisions, though I don't have a pattern.

In order to make sure the sleeves fit the bodice, I took the pagoda sleeve pattern that goes with my bodice (Truly Victorian) and modified it. I lengthened it about 7 inches, and made it narrower from below the armscye to the wrist.  I kept the curve on the bottom so it would be most full at the back of the arm.  Hope it works!  I'll decide how much trim I want after I get the front trimmed.





 Here's what the front is looking like (partially done and a blurry picture), and how the trim wraps around the back of the neck (ribbon is top and bottom but no picture)..



And I've started making the flowers that will go on the points of the skirt trim:


And finished!

Renaissance Man's outfit

I've been told that "men don't wear OUTFITS" , but what else do you call this?  My patterns are from Margo Anderson's Elizabethan Gentleman's Wardrobe, which you can find here: http://margospatterns.com/Products/ElizWrdrb.html
I gave Roger a choice of pant silhouettes and he actually chose the pumpkin pants, stating that if he was going to wear a costume, he was going all out. Good on him!
The fabric is green velvet.  The doublet will be the one on the right, with a lot more trim but with hanging sleeves for temperature control.  The pumpkin pants will be green velvet backed with orange satin charmeuse and lined with cotton muslin  with orange charmeuse puffy underpants poofing out between the strips. Roger has already chosen his green and orange pheasant feathers combined with a grey ostrich feather for his cap. This year it'll be a flat cap because I'm not sure I'll have time to get heavy duty into millinery.  I already made his shirt, blogged here:http://idlehandsthems-fitsworkshop.blogspot.com/2012/05/i-shall-make-you-cambric-shirt-mens.html

Note:  I'm particularly indebted to this site:http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/ , a source for much inspiration.

OK, it's now taken me days to unfold each page of the pattern to search for the proper pieces for the men's slops. Margo makes great patterns but there are so many pieces that finding what you need can be time consuming. I've decided that the canvass I have on hand will just have to work for these pants as the thought of yet another trip to Joanne's is killing me.
Last night I finally got down to cutting and actually sewed some seams. Oh, the progress! Before I got there, however, there were ADVENTURES IN DYEING. I stove-top dyed some muslin to use as the pant pane lining but I didn't agitate it enough and it came out blotchy. The next day I threw that and some undyed muslin in the machine, added a huge pot of boiling water to the machine's hot water and ran it through the agitator three times. Still splotchy, but different hues.  That's ok, the material will be used in different parts of the outfit and really won't be seen....much.
I cut out the base in canvass, the inner lining in white muslin, the panes in velvet, interfacing and dark green muslin for lining, and the orange charmeuse for the underlay that shows through the panes.  Next up will be adding the decorative trim.

I cut the lining by tracing from the pattern. Then I cut the interfacing.  The instructions said to trim off excess to 1/8 inch. Well, my seam allowance is 5/8 so i said to myself" Why don't I just cut them less 1/2" on each side and I won't have to trim?"  Nice idea except I forgot I did that, then used the interfacing as the template for the velvet.  That's why my velvet is skinnier.  That's why I will have to either re-cut the velvet or cut another two panes. I think I will just cut two more panes, even though the lining will be a different shade of green I used it all up).  Oh, well....

And today I realized that I basted the center pieces incorrectly.  I was supposed to sew the outside seams together, turn them, THEN baste the remaining raw edges.  I realized that this morning as I was going over how to put it together in my head and realized I'd screwed the pooch messed up yet again. At least I won't have to re-cut.....That is two "Doh!" experiences in a row.

Then THE DOG ATE MY HOMEWORK! Seriously, I came home to a masticated mass of pattern paper. That dang dog had MOVED A CHAIR in order to get up on it and get to the top of the dining room bureau to nab those pattern pieces.  I was too distraught to even look at what was damaged, I just gathered it all up and threw it in a box with a lid to be dealt with later. I'm not a fan of jig-saw puzzles and this will be a big one. Those patterns were expensive, Here are the decorated panes for the slops or pumpkin pants.  The panes go over the canvas base and charmeuse gathered overlay, then the overlay is stuffed with netting. The decoration is a 1 1/2' satin ribbon with gold 3/8" gold braid in the center, 3/16" gold looped braid on each side of the ribbon, and a looped green and gold braid next to the looped braid.  All in all, very fancy!

The pants are basted together and ready for the cannions.

Can I tell you how difficult it is to work with velvet? I'm doing everything I've read about, from using basting spray, hand basting, using a lot of pins, etc. and the velvet still crawls and wiggles all over the place.  I don't have a walking foot for my machine.  I've loosened the tension.  I sew a bit, release the pressure, sew a bit more and yet, I can't get it right.  It's not something you will be able to see unless you inspect closely, but there is not a perfectly straight seam anywhere on this garment.  I'm hoping the trim will distract the eye from the imperfections.  Of course, my boyfriend doesn't notice any of the mistakes and thinks these things are wildly funny. He even asked "Will these pants make my butt look big?" to which I answered with a resounding "Yes!"

Renaisance Dress

I'm  changing my mind almost every day about my Ren dress. The more I look, the more I see that, unless it is a doublet, the top and skirt are the same fabric.  I had wanted to do the bodice in the same green velvet that my SO will have for his doublet, but I didn't want the heat of a velvet skirt (and it would break my heart to drag vlevet on the ground). I'd originally thought to have the bodice in green velvet and some thicker trim made of green velvet strips  going down the bodice and along the skirt front edge and the bottom, but the more I think of trying to tie Roger's green velvet in with mine, the more problematic it becomes as I look into working with velvet. It seems that cutting velvet strips and sewing them on will be a nightmare and trying to make velvet piping would probably drive me to drink.  I have enough of the clay silk to do make both a bodice and the skirt, so no worries.   So here's my new idea:  Clay dress, skirt and sleeves - find some interesting lining fabric for Spanish or hanging sleeves if I decide on that or just do the paned sleeve with bigass puff and shoulder boulder strips with puff. (Lisa tells me she's doing the shoulder roll with paned sleeves, so that option is out for me.  We-just-cannot-be-twins rule is in effect. Need to find some sort of satin ribbon to decorate with, maybe rust?  Roger's will remain the same: Green velvet doublet, velvet paned sleeves, velvet paned pumpkin pants with that orange charmeuse showing thru.  The closer I get to actually doing it, the simpler my design will become! I'm so confused.
For the fore panel, here's my inspiration:




All of that design was embroidered by one of Queenie's good buddies, Bess of Hardwick on the figure on the left.  I have silk drapery fabric for the background and I'm going to use the wrong side of the fabric to boot.  I've download a bunch of Jacobean embroidery designs of birds and flowers (couldn't find any fantastical animals already digitized) and I'll start hooping soon. Just this part should take a long time and a boatload of thread! After it is embroidered, I'll cut it out and back it with canvass. I'm not making an entire skirt, just a forepanel. In the interest of temperature control, I will fore go the underskirt and just velcro the forepanel to the farthingale. Th figure on the right I like because of the pearl detailing. I don't want the huge sleeves on either examples, though. Huge shoulders, yes. Huge sleeve, not so much.

What I like about the black & white outfit  is the interesting use of trim and THE PEARLS!.  I have amassed a selection of pearls with 50% off coupons and I plan to go pearl crazy, as much as I can. I also like the sheer partlet cuz I don't like exposing my chest to the sun, but I also like the big suportasse that some ladies work and I'm not sure how to get them to play well together.  Most of the pics I've seen of costumes show the partlet open, but, historically speaking, on an older woman such as myself, the partlet would be closed. The partlet on the lady in blue is one example I'm thinking of emulating. I will NOT be making a ruff this time.  I also LOVE Bob Mackie's "joke" version.  To the modern eye it looks over-the-top, but if you look at the "bow portrait" of Elizabeth, it's not even close to over-the-top.  I'm glad I finally found a portrait using bows so I can include them on my dress somewhere! I love bows and I haven't seen them used in a lot of the costumes I've researched.  Bows on!

My pattern is from Margo Anderson's Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe which you can find here: http://margospatterns.com/Products/ElizWrdrb.html  
I've already made the farthingale, blogged here: http://idlehandsthems-fitsworkshop.blogspot.com/2012/04/renaissance-farthingale-robin.html and am almost finished with the corset:
http://idlehandsthems-fitsworkshop.blogspot.com/2012/05/elizabethan-corset-r.html and, of course, that ridiculous bumroll!http://idlehandsthems-fitsworkshop.blogspot.com/2012/02/who-wants-to-wear-inner-tube-around.html

After spending many hours pouring over online fabric choices, I've decided that the sleeves will be lined in the velvet that I already have for Roger's doublet and pants. I also started the machine embroidery for the fore panel.  This is a lot harder than I thought and will be very expensive. I did wait for a 50% off thread sale at Joannes, but these designs will take a lot of thread! I bought my designs at emblibrary.com.  One of the problems I've encountered is that, depending on what printer you use will give you a different result on the colors that print out. I tried to use the Thread Exchange on their site, but trying to actually BUY a specific thread color is ridiculous. I will just make do with what I've already got. Add to that the fact that I can hardly tell which design is which once it makes it from the embroidery card to my machine and that makes for all sorts of problems. I thought I could just start it and let it stitch while I sewed other parts, but I keep having problems.  Last night, right in the middle of a design, I developed massive thread nests and had to stop mid-design and take the machine apart. Sheesh! I've re-hooped, changed needles, changed tension (resulting in a nest of thread, thank you) and all this after stitching a perfect test pattern. Argghhh! This is going to take forever. Here's a pic of what I've done so far: