Everyday vintage - L

Hadn't sewed in ages when I suddenly got the urge.  Sadly, the urge ran out before I finished.  I did make 3 things, though and I've worn 'em all.  I have a 30's blouse pattern from Wearing History that is all ready to modify.  And I have some beautiful fabric to make it up.  I've had the fabric for a few years and no longer remember why I bought it meaning it is fair game for the fabric stash burn-down.   

The picture is rushed and not so great.  I will SAY Im going to add a better one, but it's not that likely.  Maybe I'll snap a picture at Costume College.

First - Decades of Style Girl Friday blouse

I've made this before in a print, and I love it.  In addition to the shoulder dart and the under bust pleats, I added a side dart.  And this time I made it in plain white muslin and did the color embroidery around the collar and sleeves.  Or rather the 'not sleeves'.  While the embroidery itself wasn't fast, the rest of it goes together quickly and it's very comfortable.  Other mods - I used snaps at the side opening instead of a zipper and I added ties sewn into the outside front pleat.  I can tie it in the back for a slimmer fit.  Snaps at the side have a softer look than a zipper.  I added a 3/4 inch placket on each side of the opening, then put a hook and thread loop at the center, and two snaps at either side.  I added shoulder pads.  The other 'slow' thing I chose to do was to add the bias tape to finish the neck by hand.
For me, the embroidery is really hard.  It's my kryptonite.  I fret if it isn't perfect.  Well, it isn't, but I love it anyway. I used charcoal grey and two shades of pink.  I never wear pink BUT there is method in this madness.

collar is a pain, but looks pretty cool

hand tacking bias binding

Border print skirt - I got this big, like 4 yards, length of fabric in Morocco.  It's meant to wrap around the body and over the head.  I paid $8 for it.  It has a few stains and is worn in a couple places.  It's also very thin and sheer.  But it's this great turquoise with pink and orange and a black border.
I backed it with white cotton lawn which was hellish since both fabrics were so wiggly and the cats decided to romp over it while I was working.  Cut off the border on one side, pleated it into a waistband and done!  Border print skirt with complimenting blouse!  I came out a little longer than I expected so I may replace the waistband and take some off the top.  I don't normally wear bright colors and worry that I look like a clown.  But I wore it anyway.




Grey 40's wide leg trousers - Smooth Sailing from Wearing history
I made up this pattern again, this time with front pockets and a fly front zipper.  I had 3 yards of the smooth grey wool that I used for my anteater dress.  I kept meaning to make a skirt until I realized that I don't actual WANT another skirt.  I get much more use from vintage trousers.  I had already altered this pattern for fit so it was pretty quick.  Except I really wanted a fly front and pockets.

fly front without backing flap

backing flap is SO much better

Fly front isn't so hard, but like a welt pocket it doesn't make a lot of sense until you've don't it.  I followed the tutorial on the Threads website.  It works beautifully except for one thing.  In a real fly front there is a flap under the edge of the zipper.  So you don't catch your belly in it while zipping.  That is not included in the Threads tutorial.  I added it by sewing a folded and interfaced piece of fabric to the flap that the zipper attaches to (seam is hidden under the zipper).

tiny, baby kitten is now huge and loves rolling on fabric

The pattern pieces and template to add pockets

The front pockets are done exactly per the Anerican Duchess tutorial.  I cut paper pattern pieces so I can duplicate them every time I make the pattern. The only thing I added was bias tape along the curve of the pocket so it holds its shape better.  The pants cam out a little to broad across the beam.  I may take them in, but not now.  Now I'm just going to enjoy them.

 

Added some bias tape to the pocket edge

Pockets and fly front zipper

 More cosplay sewing this weekend, after 4 straight days of recording wildlife for the marine sanctuary.  'Recording wildlife' sounds much more glamourous than counting seals and seagulls thru binoculars.  

The brown challenge - HSF/HSM - Lisa

I had a couple things I could make for the brown challenge.  Both from the 30's/40's with my Wearing History patterns.  Trousers and a blouse.  I actually made both, and started working on a swing coat.   I've planned to make the swing coat for the last two winters.  Wide leg trousers were popular starting in the 30's, though they were not common and not worn as everyday clothing.

Jean Harlow in trousers

I have a pin stripe cotton, mostly brown with a little blue, for the blouse.  I was going to get wool flannel for the trousers but I wasn't sure I would like how the pants looked on me so I declined to invest the cash.  Instead I got a dark chocolate rayon twill.  It has lovely drape, though it's not very forgiving of my bumps.   I actually bought all this quite a while ago and just haven't got around to sewing it.

Smooth Sailing Pants 

The largest size of the pattern is a tiny bit too small for me in most places.  It's definitely too small in the 'high hip' (commonly know as the 'pot' belly).  I altered the curve of the hip and altered the pleats and darts along with adding to the overall size. I also hand sewed the side zip because I've found that I get a smoother line.  Clearly I'm too lazy to go downstairs to press my work before pictures.

Hand picked zip - Not pressed

And now, a moment to talk about squish.  I have a lot of squish, and it's not all just fat.  Everyone should know their squishability, because it matters when making alterations.  I added room in the pattern to match my measurements and then, when the muslin seemed too tight in the waist, I added more.  But I shouldn't have because I'm squishy, and I know it.  If my pants fit 'properly' in the waist they are actually too loose and will slide to my high hip.  I find I need to squish in about 1- 1 1/2 inches (more if the fabric will stretch a bit when wearing).  I always have a little roll over my waist but I prefer that to droopy pants.  I added an extra inch to the muslin and ended up taking two inches out.  That same 'squish' factor means I need to add a bit of extra room through the seat.  When I sit down I squish OUT there (wearing ease).  Alternately, Robin my co-blogger, has almost no squish no matter what her size.

Welt pocket - Also NOT pressed 

A side effect of the squish alterations was that the legs of the pants are a bit fuller than they appear in the pattern picture.  The pattern is for straight leg pants from the low hip and I added ease in the low hip.  My final decision was whether to add a welt pocket on the seat.  I've never done it, so I HAD to try.   I haven't made the belt yet, but I want to do that, too.









Smooth Sailing Blouse
The blouse pattern fit, except the bust.  Because it's made of cotton shirting and buttons down the front, I wanted to make sure I added plenty of fabric.  No gap!  The pattern creates bust fullness through pleating below the yoke.  I added half my extra volume there.  I also chose to add a bust dart, along with a little extra length in the front.  Due to the extra volume at the bust, I added a second shaping dart at the waist.  I'm quite content with how it worked out.

A couple of surprises with the pattern; first, the yoke is not lined and second, the shoulder seam came out slanting back over my shoulder.  Neither one of these were a problem.  I'm going to use the pattern again, and I will likely line the yoke and will slash and spread to move the shoulder seam closer to my actual shoulders.  The yoke is fine without the lining and hangs nicely, but my next blouse will have the outside of the yoke cut on the bias (for stripe detail) and will need the support.
The shoulder seam placement meant that closing the blouse up to the neck wasn't a viable option.  It will be easy to fix in the future.  Note; this is related to MY shape, not a problem with the pattern.

Both these patterns were extremely easy to work with and the instructions were straightforward.  I LOVE them.  I'm also secretly happy that I matched stripes (sorta) at the shoulder.

It's 7AM!  Only time I had for pictures...