And now the annual Halloween interruption - L

Every year my projects are interrupted by my son's need for both a Halloween costume, and a costume for our town's haunted house.  He just keeps growing so the pirate costume has to be re-made year after year.  This year he isn't even at home!  He has a school camp for the week before the haunted house.  I had to make him a shirt without having HIM to measure.  Yes, I could have planned ahead, but where's the fun in that?

I literally threw this together last night.  The shirt and cuff hems aren't done, and I want to practice tea dying with this.  I also want to try to distress the edges since he's supposed to be a ghost pirate.  The cat will provide the obligatory shedding, but not the shredding.  She's just to old to care.

I had no pattern and roughly based this on the renaissance chemise pattern.  I made up a simple stand up collar and a faux yoke.  Now on to Halloween!

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Just a quick update - L

Just a quick progress update.  The collar is on.  I'm still tacking in boning and pleating the tail.  The pleating is more difficult than I would have thought.  It seems more obvious than it is.  I pin together and put it on the form.  And it hangs crooked.  So I pin again - etc, etc, redux.

After that, all I have to do is the front closure which I haven't chosen.  I have something showing up in the mail.  Maybe soon.

Also, I handful of the talented women I've met thru the 1912 Project have started up a facebook group for FBA's and other pattern adjustments around a big chest and a small back.  We are trying to band together to help each other get better at our abundant fitting challenges.  (you like that pun?)

If you are interested, contact me via comments.

As an aside, this bodice fits me.  It is tight on the dressform.  And yet I do not look as svelte as this dress form.  This is due, I think, to my very narrow back.

Tail Bodice and sick days

I have been in bed, sick for a week.  During that time, I did a little sewing, but not much.  I sewed trim to my bodice by hand.  Since this bodice is bag lined and some of the trim is thick, I decided this was the best solution.  As a reminder, here's what I'm working on:

This is the Truly Victorian Tail Bodice and I'm really excited about my progress.

I started with this maroon and black print in polyester.  I'm lining the tails in burgundy, the sleeves in black, and the main part of the bodice in burgundy canvas.  Why?  Because that's what I had laying around.  The goal of this bodice is to channel my inner steampunk witch.  Much of that will be achieved with accessories, but I needed an elegant 1880's bodice as a foundation.

This has been a game changer for me in many respects.  I caved in and bought a full corset.  It fits better than I expected, and really makes the silhouette better.  I also caved in and bought a 'perfect pleater'.  I love pleats.  I hate hand pleating.  I'm too impatient to make them even.  It's also the first Victorian outfit I've made without fitting help.  Which is challenging.  My dress form is NOT a good representation of my body.  It can't be forced into a configuration that mimics me. So far everything is working out.....

 I made a muslin, and then cut fabric and lining.  I sewed together the lining and used that for fitting.  Now I'm sewing together the actual bodice and adding the trim before I add the lining.  It's been interesting.  I had bought some black lace, beading and braid, knowing I would find places to use it.  And this is definitely the place!  I made a tube of black lining, pleated it, and sewed it to the bottom edge of the front with black braid.  Then I added some beaded fringe to the bottom.  I was going to use the same trim around the neck, but the pleating seemed like too much (I know, I know, never too much in Victorian dress).  So around the neck I'm just using two rows of braid.

Since I will mostly wear this to Steampunk things, I added pockets to the front.  I also added a couple of sewn-in D-rings inside the lining so I can attach gear as needed.

I opted to use a less 'assertive' beaded trim on the sleeves.  Beads catch on everything and I didn't want them getting in my way.

For the record, the sleeve opening are very large.  (or I have really tiny wrists)

I am modding the collar to look more like Maleficent, extending over my shoulders but up and curled.  Pictures soon.  I keep making samples and they keep being to small.

Once all the trim is sewn and the collar attached, I'll sew in the lining and sleeves.  Then I have to wait to get some collar wire to hold that collar in shape.   In the mean time, here is what the bodice trim (and welt pocket) look like:

Long weekend - Short sewing - L

Well I didn't get much done this weekend.  I supervised a lot of stuff, but not much for ME.  And mostly it's all about me.  Right?

I crocheted this little tiny top hat (meant to be a fascinator not an actual hat since it's only 2.5 inches across the top).  Then I made what I have dubbed the Tesla spheres as a decoration.  I still haven't put them together, and I still need to clean some excess glue off the ... thing.  What DO you call it?

I have a couple young ladies who are interested in making Victorian costumes for a variety of upcoming events.  They each wanted to make a skirt, petticoat and the TV Polonaise.  And that was not gonna happen.  Both are beginners.  I don't think I could get two beginners through this much sewing without losing my mind.

In the end, my daughter made a skirt, and is starting the polonaise.
Her fabric is just so cool.  She has her skirt done except for the hem, and potentially trim and has already sewn and fitted a muslin.  This weekend, she cut her fashion fabric and her lining. And since that is a :LOT of cutting for a newbie, we sewed up her sleeves and the bustle part of the dress.  That way she gets to feel 'progress'.  The main part of the bodice is gonna be a beast for her, but I think it will be the single cutest costume I've been associated with.  Next time we get started on the petticoat.  NOT so much fun.

Her friend decided, after reviewing the work involved, that she would be good with a skirt.  She has 6 or 7 corsets so she can wear them over a black skirt (with or without a top underneath) and look really cute.  She made a black skirt with the 'super easy' unstructured waistband.  And she's happy.  She decided that was enough stress!

And sure enough, the skirt looks great with her black and white corset.  She may make a chemise top and a petticoat.  If she feels like it.  Either way, she can steampunk with the best now!

Victorian Day Dress - rob

Here's the finished item!  You can see how it was built on this post:
http://idlehandsthems-fitsworkshop.blogspot.com/2012/06/robs-1850s-victorian-day-dress.html

Sewing for fun - L

Cut loose from calendar obligations (needing a costume done for an event) I have gone a little crazy, indulging every whim that wafts thru my head.  I could be taking this time to work on my elizabethan costume but I'm not.  Maybe soon.  My daughter and I decided to go to a couple of things in late September/early October.  I actually have something to wear, but I want MORE!  Plus, I was a little bored at work.  I went looking at dress blogs and pattern sites and suddenly decided I can't live without this TV Tail Bodice.  I had some fabric that I bought with the idea of making a Steampunk villain (a la Maleficent).  I was trying to drape a bodice mashed up from a couple of different patterns but I wasn't excited about the results.  Now, suddenly, I'm excited.

Here's a really bad picture of my fabric (the upper right corner is the closest to reality).  I don't know how long the tail will actually be.  I don't have the recommended amount of fabric for the longer tails.  But my fabric 60 inches wide so I may be able to cut carefully and squeeze in some length.

I have decided on a neckline yet.  It will depend on how the muslin looks.  And herein lies a a new thing.  For the last year or so, I continue to be challenged by fit. And while I'm able to get the garments to fit, I don't like how they look.  I've come to the conclusion that I need an overbust corset.  That means I'll have to make one.  I simply can't justify the expense of a custom corset, and off the rack doesn't come in my size.(After writing this, I caved in and BOUGHT a corset.  I doubt it will fit well, but it was clearance, and will fill the gap until I can make one)

I went ahead and made a muslin.  I love the TV patterns, since they allow a lot of sizing flexibility.  I tried it on and it fits really well.  Only needs dart adjustment.  I will wait for my new corset before I make a final determination on fitting changes.  I can already tell that the pleats in back will be a pressing challenge.  They are not on-grain except the center back.

I love this pattern and suddenly have about 3 or 4 things I want to make with it.

My daughter has decided to make a polonaise.  I am providing guidance ONLY and making her do everything herself.  It's going to be really tough for her since her skills are not robust.
She already made a full black skirt that is a gathered tube with a waistband.  She's made a muslin and we fit it.  Now she needs to cut her lining and her fabric.  She's going for a bold look with this red stripe and it's gonna be amazing.

I also found a great free tutorial for a butterfly bustle at Your Wardrobe Unlocked.  It's very simple.  I had some cheap lace fabric, and even cheaper faux gold/black taffeta.  I put them together and made the bustle.
Here's how it ended up:

A bit higher and poof-ier than I expected however I haven't' sewn the center back pleats to the waistband.  I'm thinking of attaching a ribbon to allow be the adjust the height of the center pleating to go with different bodices and vests.  It's really pretty.  You can sort of see thru the lace and get a shimmer of gold.  The extra poof comes from using cheap polyester fabrics.

Then I had another mad rush of things....just THINGS.  I finished the little metal decorations for my black steampunk skirt.  I decided to make them removable both for cleaning and to give me flexibility using the skirt.  AND I decided I wanted to crochet a little top hat fascinator.

(I wasn't lying...my poor brain has been bustling with ideas and the projects I had were not fulfilling my costume creation needs)

Here's the metal decorations.  They are connected via a copper chain.  And then...

Hat on a cat!  I just need to crotchet the rim.

VPLL 1912 - Blouse 1000

VPLL 1912 - Blouse 1000
This is my next project for the VPLL 1912 Project.  My plan is to wear this with the skirt and the spring mantle as a complete outfit.  The pattern design is much closer to modern blouse patterns, but there are still notable differences in the side seam and sleeve placement.  The challenge in the pattern is the embroidery detail and the pleating.  MY challenge is to make this pattern fit me.  The bust is listed as 36.  That is likely true, however I believe it is 36 on a petite and corseted figure.  The pattern is quite small.  The only modification I plan to make is to shift the button opening from the back to the front.  This is a fairly straightforward change.  Then I need to size up for me.  In this case, every single pattern piece needed modifications.  It's somewhat intimidating, since I'm not cutting everything equally larger, but modifying each piece to fit me and fit adjoining pattern pieces.  For example, I added width to the back piece (pictured) at the waist but not at the shoulder.  Of course I had to modify the peplum too.  And, as always, the infamous FBA.  Also, there is no waistband pattern piece.  The sewist gets to do that on their own.  Luckily, it's a straight line.  

First try:
Nope.  Didn't work.  I calculated the FBA based on a modern side seam  The side seam for this pattern is toward the back by about an inch to an inch and a half.  Just about what I'm missing in front.

I re-stitched the pleats and un-sewed the button placket and to determine how much more fabric I needed to add to the center front.









Nope. It's a lot better, but not quite there. Next  I lowered the dart, and took up the inside of the shoulder seam.  This would allow me  to straighten the angle of the center front.  I also undid one of the two pleats in the back to determine how much extra ease I needed.

Yes!  This is pretty much it!  The peplum fits better than it looks in the picture because I pulled it closed for the picture.  The center front is straight and the dart isn't pulling.

I have marked the muslin extensively with all the little tweaks I made.  I've trimmed the muslin where I took seams in. Now I'm ready to cut.

For the record, to move the closure if the pattern fit properly one would need to remove the seam allowance from the back pattern piece and cut on the fold.  Then, for a 1 inch overlap for buttons and buttonholes, add 1/2 inch to the center front, plus 2 inches to fold over for the placket.  

I'm also adding length to the top part of the blouse, but not evenly.  The blouse was designed to have a poofy front (the style of the time).  I'm adding proportionally to the back and sides for a more modern fit.

I've moved on to the the polyester... I don't know how to describe it...it's a tightly woven and 'drapey'.  
It's wiggley and making me crazy.  I'm testing the embroidery on it and weeping.  Skills!  I need them!

Catching up on my blog post - the blouse is done!  
Once I got the sizing sorted I sewed it together.  I didn't follow the instructions per se, but the instructions were fairly logical.  I sewed all the pleats and pressed them.  I sewed shoulders and side seam.  I sewed the sleeve seam. 

 I opted to add the cuffs after I sewed the sleeves to the blouse.  It could be done before that, but not before the sleeve seam as the pattern suggests a small gap in the cuff at the sleeve pleats.  Here's how mine looked:

Please note that I did not do the scallops or the granitos.  I spent many an evening toiling over my sewing machine and an embroidery hoop attempting to get the right 'look'.  I failed miserably.  That is not the fault of the pattern.  That is my personal failing.  I opted instead to use an decorative stitch that was available on my machine.  I like how it came out.

Next, I sewed in the collar.  Please note that I am not a fan of the pattern instructions for added the collar and cuffs.  It is not difficult as written, just difficult with a 3/8 seam allowance.  I should have noticed this and added a larger seam allowance.  Since I didn't have much fabric to work with, I had a hard time getting the collar to look even.  I will have to steam it like crazy to get it to match.  Again, it's my skill level that created the problem, but the pattern could have been easier with a larger seam allowance.  The instructions suggest binding the collar.  That is a solution, but it is difficult to accomplish without the binding showing at the neck.

The waistband was a simple strip of fabric.  I opted to make the width (finished) 1 1/4 inch.  I also opted to have the waistband overlap by two inches in the front because I thought it would look cute.  I cut two waistbands so I could use one as a backing to cover over the raw fabric edges of the top and the peplum. To do this, I pressed over the seam allowances on both pieces.  I sewed one to the 'wrong side' of the blouse attaching blouse and peplum.  Picture shows blouse sewn and peplum pinned.  Then I trimmed the seam allowances and sewing the top ('right side') waistband over everything.

The blouse is now completed except for buttons and buttonholes.

The amount of alterations I attempted really exceeded my skill level.  Not everything came out as planned.  I firmly believe this was directly due to my lack of skills. For example, when I sized up the peplum I added width at the bottom to accommodate my hips.  I THOUGHT I had it right in the muslin, but clearly I didn't.  The peplum overlaps slightly in front and in back.  Learning experience!  The collar was particularly challenging and fiddly for me.  Learning experience!  All said and done, not my best bit of work, but I like it.  Most surprising is that it fits!  Here are some additional picture of the blouse on my dressform, with the rest of the outfit, and finally, on me.  The funny looking part at the waist in the back is just a failure to properly 'blouse' the blouse.  Not how it actually looks.

VPLL Checklist:
Pattern Name - Blouse 1000
Sewer's Skill Level -  Intermediate (although I felt like a beginner)
Pattern Rating - Somewhere between 2 and 3,  I love the picture, but I'm not sure the risk/reward for this pattern is worth all the work.
What skill level would someone need to sew this - Definately intermediate, with a lot of patience and attention to detail.
Were the instructions easy to follow - yes, although I think the collar and cuffs should have a larger seam allowance.
How was the fit/sizing? - This pattern seemed very small for a 36 inch bust. Given I am substantially larger than that, I can't really tell, though.
Did you make any pattern alterations - I changed closure from front to back.  I also made substantial changes to the size of the pattern.