|the WRONG fabric|
Recently, Mari invited me to make it for real and join her blog hop. If you've read this blog at all, you know that I don't sew 'regular' clothes, however, I have never sewn with knits and wanted to give it a try. And if you've only read our statement, you may have noticed that I have a tough time following directions... So when I told Mari that I wanted to try this pattern in a knit, she told me not to get anything super stretchy because it could create problems with the darts. I just ignored that. Really, I wanted to be cooperate, but I couldn't find any fabric I liked that fit the rules. Then again, I love a challenge. Besides, I was in the mood to make something purple.
The first challenge was the zipper. There were no 18 inch invisible zippers at my local store. There were no 18 inch big, fun metal zippers. Not in any color. So much for the 'big silver zipper' down the back. I got a regular zipper. It will show on purpose. Executive decision.
Having already made this pattern in muslin, I knew it fit me without any stretch. I also knew that it seemed a tiny bit (like 1/4 inch) long in the back, or that I'm a bit sway-backed. So I tweaked it ever so slightly. And my compliments to Mari because I am a fitting nightmare. To be blunt, I'm pretty chubby, with a large bust and small shoulders and back. I'm also short waisted so my extra poundage tends to hang out in my stomach. I often cut patterns 3 or 4 sizes smaller in the back and modify to match to the front. As a tester, I decided to make the original muslin 'as-is' based on my measurements. And it fit really well. That's nearly unprecedented.
When you make this pattern take time to match up the pattern pieces properly, mark all the notches and darts. This is not an easy pattern due to all the curved seams, but it's worth it. And it's not difficult, just precise. The curved seams create the shape. (I mean it! I will skip steps and take shortcuts any chance I get. Layout and cutting this pattern is not the time to do this.)
|lots of clipping|
|ignore crooked interfacing - I did!|
Based on a quick-and-dirty fitting, I needed to take the bulk of the extra out of the back. This time I basted the zipper with the estimated reduction (How hard is it to try and figure how much to take in from the center back while you're wearing it?) and it looked pretty good.
I basted the zipper and decided it look better than machine sewn, so I topstitched it by hand too. I overlocked the hems and under-stitched the facing. All done!
I can still pull this on without using the zipper. I added about 1 1/2 inches in the hem. I'm 5'10" and didn't want any accidental stomach exposure. I also took in the seams under the bust (after the picture) and fully tacked down the facing since the sweetheart portion kept curling out. I agree that this isn't suitable for a drapey knit unless you REALLY know what you're doing. But even with all my ignorance, I have a cute, wearable top*. Please note the exposed zipper - it looks just fine and the back fits well. No sagging or bagging. This is a very fun and versatile pattern. And I easily made it in less than a day!
(Including do-overs and hand sewing).
Go check out all the other great items made with this pattern during our blog hop!
* you can tell I'm a costumer by my utter bewilderment at making wearable clothes... But I like it and may actually do it again (I'm planning to make the avocado hoodie as soon as I finish my 1920's and Elizabethan projects). I am also thinking about making this as a dress, but making it tea length because PRETTY!