Learning what I have left to do - Lisa

I pinned all my darts, strapped on the corset and petticoat and tried on my hard work.  I had added to the front to allow room for my chest and I clearly added too much.  The front darts are not quite right, and strangely, the side seams that fit in the muslin are too loose.  The shoulders and arms seem fine (although I haven't pinned on the sleeves yet).  I'm going to pin the side seams where I think they should go, but wait for Robin to finalize.  She can correct my darts, and pin the sleeves.  She will also need to help me even out the bustle tapes and get the poufs right.  Then I sew it all together, add a front hem, trim, boning, and deal with the hook and eye closure along with decorative buttons.  And, yeah, I still need to crochet the neck trim and have to wait for a final measurement.

Things I learned about reading the directions!  When the pattern calls for 45 inch fabric, 44 inch is not the same.  Especially after it's shrunk.  Luckily I had extra and so was not too messed up when I had to re-fold for every cut.  The front has a 1.5 inch hem allowance.  I didn't read that and planned for a lined panel.  It's a little too long.  Luckily that's very easy to fix.  And a very novel concept for me (at 5'10').

So here I am, pinned together and pinching the baggy sides seams in place.  I'm really happy with it.  And with my petticoat.  While I wait for the next fitting day, I can make the brown skirt that goes over the petticoat.  It's the same color as the lining, but nicer fabric.  I think I'm going to make the bustle stick out a little more too.

Saturday's sound and fury - signifying less than we hoped - Lisa

This ruffled petticoat is 100% done.  It came out really well and I love it, which is good because I'm so sick of hemming and gathering ruffles, I may not ever do another one.  I'll post a proper picture soon.  So tired.....

We didn't take as many pictures as we planned because we were busy.  We started at about 9.30 am. First, Robin pinned two hems for me.  Then she went to work on her crinoline while I stitched gathers.  What started off all sunshine and unicorns, quickly turned to the dark side.  Stitching up the bag required her to balance the hoops on her head while sewing (or, ya know, just ask me for help).  Then she pinned the channels, and re-pinned, and re-pinned yet again.  And then she strapped it on and I re-pinned for length.  It swayed like a drunken sailor every time she breathed.  And then....  well, I'll let her tell you (see prior post).  In the mean time, I was gathering and pinning and sewing ruffles.  Petticoat has a 4.24 yard hem.  Do the math (although most of the ruffles are only in the back).  And then, when the crinoline was still not working out, we looked at the clock and it was 4 pm.  We agreed to stop and eat, and despite reservations, drink a glass of wine.  While we did that we looked over some of the trim ideas I had for my polonaise.  I needed to decide what worked best and if I needed to buy anymore ribbon.  After that we got the crinoline to work.  Even hem, smooth curve on the sides, and every bone in the proper channel. 

Back into my corset, and into the muslin for the polonaise.  Happily, only the darts and the arm hole needed work.  I cut one arm hole and Robin drew the other.  I want to compare it before I cut it to make sure it's roughly the same.  The pattern is really flattering and relatively easy except for fitting.  And in my case, the fitting is very much a personal issue.  My torso can be squished and stretched in some truly amazing ways.  Also, it would have been impossible without Robin.  She did all the pinning and drawing around the arm and then sent me off to the mirror for approval.  I'm going to start cutting this week.

Finally, at 7pm we went over some trim options she was looking at.  Her fabric and trim are lovely.  Despite all the talk about lavender and violet, she will bear no resemblance to Violet Beauregard (yes I went straight to Willy Wonka).  At that point, even the offer of delicious food could not keep me from my car and my hour drive home.  And she promises to post pictures tomorrow!!!

Things I did, Want to do, and a BIG day tomorrow - Lisa

I've been making some crocheted lace, just to see if I can, and to use on my polonaise.  I made big ruffled lace for the sleeves, and something a bit 'less' for the hem,  Here's what it looks like, finished, with my fabric.

I still need to finish making more of the smaller stuff.  It gave me the idea of trying to make some that looks like toothed gears. 

I've got most of the material I need to make a Renaissance dress.  I'll post pictures of the fabric soon.  There are a plethora of images on-line that I might post, but the only thing that has captured my interest is how to treat my sleeves.  There are nearly no limits on what I can do, however what I want to do requires lots of layers and fabric which sounds ghastly uncomfortable.  So here I am, balancing comfort and style.  If you knew me, you would know that comfort nearly always wins.  I never wear skirts above mid calf for that reason.  But since I agreed to do this, I don't want to do a half-assed job.  Guess I'll see when it comes time to make them.  I'm looking forward to trying cartridge pleating.  And my steampunk jacket is bubbling up to the top of my mind.  I searched some images yesterday that each have a component that I want to include:

  

My fabric is a lightweight charcoal wool with a red (faux) silk lining that will show in the turn-backs and possibly at the cuffs.  I've got black and gold braid and little brass buttons with tiny elephants on them.  So lots of those.  I will have tails.  I like how they button up in the first picture, but definitely not that long.  I have a pattern for a jacket with a diagonal close up the front, and a riding jacket pattern, along with a cutting pattern for a violin bodice.  I should be able to scramble something together out of those.  Then I got some crumpled looking silk-like stuff to use for a skirt.  I think I will have it button up the front so I can have some fun with petticoats and/or bloomers underneath.  And I'm on the hunt for old belts to use for holsters and straps.

All this has to wait until AFTER tomorrow when we meet to catch up on fittings, hemming, trim choices and pattern work.  Here's what we have on the docket:

Lisa
Fit the muslin for the polonaise (final).
Hem brown cotton skirt.
Hem new petticoat, check for 'fullness'.
Review trim options for the polonaise and both brown skirts (one skirt is still an idea).
Pick up the 3 or 4 fabrics Rob is holding for me.
Look over fabric for Renaissance dress and review trim options.
Cut corset for Renaissance dress (at least copy the pattern).
Remember to bring all the things to wear under the skirts getting hemmed...don't FORGET!

Robin
Measure length for skirt over crinoline.
Measure for patterns she will cut in the near future (Pagoda top and corset).
Review trim for Victorian dress. There are lots of potential ideas here.
Work on bonnet pattern.
Cut the skirt for the Victorian ball gown.
Measure Renaissance patterns for trim requirements.
Make final decision on Renaissance fabrics.

This is do-able IF we multitask a bit and IF we don't open the wine too early.  (I do have to drive home) So we should have a lot fun pictures for next week.  I'm itching to start cutting and sewing again.  Something other than the interminable petticoat ruffles, and something that isn't beige.