Victorian Day Dress - rob

Here's the finished item!  You can see how it was built on this post:
http://idlehandsthems-fitsworkshop.blogspot.com/2012/06/robs-1850s-victorian-day-dress.html

Sewing for fun - L

Cut loose from calendar obligations (needing a costume done for an event) I have gone a little crazy, indulging every whim that wafts thru my head.  I could be taking this time to work on my elizabethan costume but I'm not.  Maybe soon.  My daughter and I decided to go to a couple of things in late September/early October.  I actually have something to wear, but I want MORE!  Plus, I was a little bored at work.  I went looking at dress blogs and pattern sites and suddenly decided I can't live without this TV Tail Bodice.  I had some fabric that I bought with the idea of making a Steampunk villain (a la Maleficent).  I was trying to drape a bodice mashed up from a couple of different patterns but I wasn't excited about the results.  Now, suddenly, I'm excited.

Here's a really bad picture of my fabric (the upper right corner is the closest to reality).  I don't know how long the tail will actually be.  I don't have the recommended amount of fabric for the longer tails.  But my fabric 60 inches wide so I may be able to cut carefully and squeeze in some length.

I have decided on a neckline yet.  It will depend on how the muslin looks.  And herein lies a a new thing.  For the last year or so, I continue to be challenged by fit. And while I'm able to get the garments to fit, I don't like how they look.  I've come to the conclusion that I need an overbust corset.  That means I'll have to make one.  I simply can't justify the expense of a custom corset, and off the rack doesn't come in my size.(After writing this, I caved in and BOUGHT a corset.  I doubt it will fit well, but it was clearance, and will fill the gap until I can make one)

I went ahead and made a muslin.  I love the TV patterns, since they allow a lot of sizing flexibility.  I tried it on and it fits really well.  Only needs dart adjustment.  I will wait for my new corset before I make a final determination on fitting changes.  I can already tell that the pleats in back will be a pressing challenge.  They are not on-grain except the center back.

I love this pattern and suddenly have about 3 or 4 things I want to make with it.

My daughter has decided to make a polonaise.  I am providing guidance ONLY and making her do everything herself.  It's going to be really tough for her since her skills are not robust.
She already made a full black skirt that is a gathered tube with a waistband.  She's made a muslin and we fit it.  Now she needs to cut her lining and her fabric.  She's going for a bold look with this red stripe and it's gonna be amazing.

I also found a great free tutorial for a butterfly bustle at Your Wardrobe Unlocked.  It's very simple.  I had some cheap lace fabric, and even cheaper faux gold/black taffeta.  I put them together and made the bustle.
Here's how it ended up:

A bit higher and poof-ier than I expected however I haven't' sewn the center back pleats to the waistband.  I'm thinking of attaching a ribbon to allow be the adjust the height of the center pleating to go with different bodices and vests.  It's really pretty.  You can sort of see thru the lace and get a shimmer of gold.  The extra poof comes from using cheap polyester fabrics.

Then I had another mad rush of things....just THINGS.  I finished the little metal decorations for my black steampunk skirt.  I decided to make them removable both for cleaning and to give me flexibility using the skirt.  AND I decided I wanted to crochet a little top hat fascinator.

(I wasn't lying...my poor brain has been bustling with ideas and the projects I had were not fulfilling my costume creation needs)

Here's the metal decorations.  They are connected via a copper chain.  And then...

Hat on a cat!  I just need to crotchet the rim.

VPLL 1912 - Blouse 1000

VPLL 1912 - Blouse 1000
This is my next project for the VPLL 1912 Project.  My plan is to wear this with the skirt and the spring mantle as a complete outfit.  The pattern design is much closer to modern blouse patterns, but there are still notable differences in the side seam and sleeve placement.  The challenge in the pattern is the embroidery detail and the pleating.  MY challenge is to make this pattern fit me.  The bust is listed as 36.  That is likely true, however I believe it is 36 on a petite and corseted figure.  The pattern is quite small.  The only modification I plan to make is to shift the button opening from the back to the front.  This is a fairly straightforward change.  Then I need to size up for me.  In this case, every single pattern piece needed modifications.  It's somewhat intimidating, since I'm not cutting everything equally larger, but modifying each piece to fit me and fit adjoining pattern pieces.  For example, I added width to the back piece (pictured) at the waist but not at the shoulder.  Of course I had to modify the peplum too.  And, as always, the infamous FBA.  Also, there is no waistband pattern piece.  The sewist gets to do that on their own.  Luckily, it's a straight line.  

First try:
Nope.  Didn't work.  I calculated the FBA based on a modern side seam  The side seam for this pattern is toward the back by about an inch to an inch and a half.  Just about what I'm missing in front.

I re-stitched the pleats and un-sewed the button placket and to determine how much more fabric I needed to add to the center front.









Nope. It's a lot better, but not quite there. Next  I lowered the dart, and took up the inside of the shoulder seam.  This would allow me  to straighten the angle of the center front.  I also undid one of the two pleats in the back to determine how much extra ease I needed.

Yes!  This is pretty much it!  The peplum fits better than it looks in the picture because I pulled it closed for the picture.  The center front is straight and the dart isn't pulling.

I have marked the muslin extensively with all the little tweaks I made.  I've trimmed the muslin where I took seams in. Now I'm ready to cut.

For the record, to move the closure if the pattern fit properly one would need to remove the seam allowance from the back pattern piece and cut on the fold.  Then, for a 1 inch overlap for buttons and buttonholes, add 1/2 inch to the center front, plus 2 inches to fold over for the placket.  

I'm also adding length to the top part of the blouse, but not evenly.  The blouse was designed to have a poofy front (the style of the time).  I'm adding proportionally to the back and sides for a more modern fit.

I've moved on to the the polyester... I don't know how to describe it...it's a tightly woven and 'drapey'.  
It's wiggley and making me crazy.  I'm testing the embroidery on it and weeping.  Skills!  I need them!

Catching up on my blog post - the blouse is done!  
Once I got the sizing sorted I sewed it together.  I didn't follow the instructions per se, but the instructions were fairly logical.  I sewed all the pleats and pressed them.  I sewed shoulders and side seam.  I sewed the sleeve seam. 

 I opted to add the cuffs after I sewed the sleeves to the blouse.  It could be done before that, but not before the sleeve seam as the pattern suggests a small gap in the cuff at the sleeve pleats.  Here's how mine looked:

Please note that I did not do the scallops or the granitos.  I spent many an evening toiling over my sewing machine and an embroidery hoop attempting to get the right 'look'.  I failed miserably.  That is not the fault of the pattern.  That is my personal failing.  I opted instead to use an decorative stitch that was available on my machine.  I like how it came out.

Next, I sewed in the collar.  Please note that I am not a fan of the pattern instructions for added the collar and cuffs.  It is not difficult as written, just difficult with a 3/8 seam allowance.  I should have noticed this and added a larger seam allowance.  Since I didn't have much fabric to work with, I had a hard time getting the collar to look even.  I will have to steam it like crazy to get it to match.  Again, it's my skill level that created the problem, but the pattern could have been easier with a larger seam allowance.  The instructions suggest binding the collar.  That is a solution, but it is difficult to accomplish without the binding showing at the neck.

The waistband was a simple strip of fabric.  I opted to make the width (finished) 1 1/4 inch.  I also opted to have the waistband overlap by two inches in the front because I thought it would look cute.  I cut two waistbands so I could use one as a backing to cover over the raw fabric edges of the top and the peplum. To do this, I pressed over the seam allowances on both pieces.  I sewed one to the 'wrong side' of the blouse attaching blouse and peplum.  Picture shows blouse sewn and peplum pinned.  Then I trimmed the seam allowances and sewing the top ('right side') waistband over everything.

The blouse is now completed except for buttons and buttonholes.

The amount of alterations I attempted really exceeded my skill level.  Not everything came out as planned.  I firmly believe this was directly due to my lack of skills. For example, when I sized up the peplum I added width at the bottom to accommodate my hips.  I THOUGHT I had it right in the muslin, but clearly I didn't.  The peplum overlaps slightly in front and in back.  Learning experience!  The collar was particularly challenging and fiddly for me.  Learning experience!  All said and done, not my best bit of work, but I like it.  Most surprising is that it fits!  Here are some additional picture of the blouse on my dressform, with the rest of the outfit, and finally, on me.  The funny looking part at the waist in the back is just a failure to properly 'blouse' the blouse.  Not how it actually looks.

VPLL Checklist:
Pattern Name - Blouse 1000
Sewer's Skill Level -  Intermediate (although I felt like a beginner)
Pattern Rating - Somewhere between 2 and 3,  I love the picture, but I'm not sure the risk/reward for this pattern is worth all the work.
What skill level would someone need to sew this - Definately intermediate, with a lot of patience and attention to detail.
Were the instructions easy to follow - yes, although I think the collar and cuffs should have a larger seam allowance.
How was the fit/sizing? - This pattern seemed very small for a 36 inch bust. Given I am substantially larger than that, I can't really tell, though.
Did you make any pattern alterations - I changed closure from front to back.  I also made substantial changes to the size of the pattern.

I'm not dead yet! - L

We have been a bit lax in posting recently.  There are a couple of reasons, and some of them are really good!  Robin has been sewing all out in an effort to meet deadlines.  She really wants to have ''his and hers' Elizabethan outfits ready for the end of September.  She has a lovely vacation planned between then and now.  CAN SHE DO IT!

Lisa is busy finishing stuff for VPLL 1912 Project and working on her Elizabethan dress.  I am really enjoying it, but it doesn't appeal to my aesthetic so I'm rarely motivated to post about it.  Then again, I did make some incredibly silly flea furs for us.  I had posted their body and head construction earlier and here they are in a very bad iPhone pic.  Gilded and bejeweled.  I particularly like the diamond teardrop fangs.

I have also started making my sleeves.  Here are two of the panels totally completed.  There are 3 panels per arm and they are sewn together at 5 or 6 points and decorated with jewels or buttons.  I guess I could also add ties (points) but that's just TOO busy for me.  Once I've made all six panels...seriously... 6... I'll go back to decorating the front piece that goes under the skirt. And decorating the sides of the front skirt panels.  That will just leave the bodice and a head covering.  These folks were nuts.  They make Victorians look like Puritans.

And Robin has donated this picture of the slops she's made her beau.  He's game.  Many men would run screaming.  His doublet is next up in her queue.

1850's bonnet and Elizabethan sleeves = L

I've been shifting between projects and trying to get get a few things done so I can wear them to events.
First, I finished my 1850s dress, but needed a hat.  I tried to modify an old raggedy sun hat but that was a fail.  The shape was all wrong. So I used a decorative hat from Michaels.  Round crown and 4 inch brim.  Cheap.  I cut the brim loose from the crown around about 2/3 of the circumference.  I steamed the brim to match the angle of the crown.  I folded the loose edges under, sewed them and trimmed them.

And it came out pretty cute.  For a bonnet.  If you're into that (which I'm not).

Then I moved on to the Elizabethan project.  So much to learn and do.  I got all my underthings done, so I have the correct silhouette.  I made my skirt and cartridge pleated it to the waist band.  I need to hem it and trim it.  I will need Robin to help. (Neither one of us can get our dress dummies to look even remotely like our normal selves, much less anything corseted...) I also need to make sleeves and a bodice and a front panel inside the skirt opening.  And decorate the snot outta them. Not really my strong suite but I get the idea.  My skirt and bodice are dark blue.  My front panel is ivory, My sleeves are burgundy.  Very faded patriotic I just realized.

The dark blue used to be curtains.  The ivory pintuck fabric I got on sale.

Here go the sleeves - made from a poly satin remnant on sale and a heavy cotton remnant on sale.

There are three long panels.  Each panel attaches at 6 points with decorative buttons or ties.  That will be nearly 40 buttons.  *($&*#    They attach at the should with functioning ties. I want them to be very fancy.  I tried out a couple options using the giant pile of trimming stuff I've been accumulating for this project.

I sampled pearl strings, velvet, gold braid, beads, pearls and 'jewels'.  The option on the right won.  The cat is optional.  In fact, that's a nearly finished panel.  The color on the left is more accurate. I also agreed to make 36 buttons for Robin BEFORE I discovered I need nearly 40.  They take longer than I thought.  And I'm making us flea-furs.  I made the bodies ages ago along with sample buttons (see They Mate for Life).  I also made little paper clay heads.  I used Rub 'n Buff to make them look gold and I'll hot glue some jewels on their heads.  Fancy!

And finally.....
progress on the VPLL 1912 project blouse.  Very shabby pic and I'm stuck until I decide what I'm doing about the 'embroidery' on the collar, cuffs and peplum.  Also a sample of the lead contender for embroidery.

Got 3 things done - L

I finished the petticoat with two layers sewn to a single yoke.  I really like the idea and execution, despite the fact that it drove me crazy! - scroll to the end for the final picture:  Yoked Petticoat - Part Two

I finished the 1850's day dress (final picture at the end).  I didn't go into too much detail on this.  Robin has done this pattern and blogged it before.  As always, fitting the bodice was my big issue.  I did learn how to do piping and that was kinda fun:  1850's Day Dress - L

And last, but certainly not least, I finished the Skirt 0162 for the 1912 project.  I'm really happy with it, and wish I got better pictures.  Black on black is SO HARD to photograph!
VPLL 1912 - Skirt 0162

Now I'm starting the VPLL 1912   Blouse 1000.  I scaled up the pattern.  Every single piece needed changes.  And it is not possible to just 'cut the pattern bigger'.

Here's an example of the back.  I've changed it from a wee, corseted 1912 figure, to a modern 'robust' square shaped gal.

I'm cutting a muslin because there are so many changes I have no idea if it will even look like a blouse anymore.

OK, OK, I could have cut the muslin already, but I got talked into a snuggle.  My ancient, grumpy sewing cat....

Fitting Marathon - L & R

Imagine, if you will, fitting multiple garments from multiple eras....  It was a whirlwind of activity as we took advantage of the July 3 early close in stock markets to fit everything that we were working on.  Every surface was piled in fabric.  The floor was scattered in pins.  Robin's foot was a sad and pained thing that swelled and throbbed.  And we got a LOT of stuff done.

What we did, and what we learned while doing it:
Lisa:
Petticoat - multiple layers sewn to a yoke for mid 19th century outfits.  I'd sewn the top layer including lace on the bottom flounce and just needed to attach it to the yoke.  Robin pinned it to the yoke, allowing a level hem.  We also experimented with a 'bum pad'.  Yes...I pinned a throw pillow to my butt..
1850's skirt - with the petticoat pinned, the skirt hem could be pinned.  Well, actually the waist.  We both had already trimmed near the bottom of our skirts, following the plaid, so we adjusted the hem at the waist.
1850's bodice - THIS was interesting.  Being small boned but fat, I cut the back of my bodice roughly 5 sizes smaller than the front.  I expect to have problems matching shoulder and side seams as a result.  I had already fit a muslin and cut and sewn a new one.  So this should have fit nearly perfectly.  HOWEVER, when I was sewing the new one, I couldn't remember if I'd matched the shoulder seam at the neck or armscye. I chose to match at the armscye leaving excess at the neck (we're talking 2 inches of excess).  When I put it on with all my underthings, NOTHING FIT RIGHT.  Poor Robin! (When she does stuff like this, it makes me doubt my initial fitting abilities, thinking "I can't be THAT bad, can I?" until I find out that she's jacked up something on her own  Dude!  I didn't jack it up!  It is entirely impossible to know what to do with all that extra fabric. It wasn't THAT BIG the first time.) Luckily, before too much had been done, we decided to re-stitch the shoulder and our optional bust dart and see what happened.  It was all the difference.  Seriously.  Suddenly, everything fit.
Elizabethan underthings - I finished them.  I put them on.  The farthingale was too long so I'm taking a big tuck all the way around between two hoops.  The corset straps needed grommets, so Robin marked where they were supposed to go and I put them in (and yes, one of them is backwards).
Elizabethan bodice - Robin had taken my measurements and I compared those to the pattern.  It seemed odd and didn't make sense.  I decided to cut the pattern size that went with my corset size and add a bit to the seams on the front and side back.  Turns out I didn't need them, and Robin pinned them out.

Robin: I'd taken the train into the city so that we could both use one car to get to Lisa's house. I lugged my cage crinoline, petticoat, corset, drawers and chemise just for the fitting of the Victorian stuff. I also had to carry my Vic skirt and bodice plus the Ren corset.  Talk about a pack mule.  With my slowly healing foot, carrying that stuff almost killed me.  And then, the fitting sessions did me in entirely.

Lisa adjusted my Vic skirt from the waistband. Adjusting it over a hoop skirt that sways uncontrollably is a nightmare.  I had to take frequent "foot elevation" breaks,which slowed the process.  Adjusting from the waist is a total pain in the fanny (and the foot) but sometimes it's the only way.  Standing still while someone fits you is pure torture, with or without injuries.  We were so tired we forgot to take pictures of Rob's skirt - but you can get a glimpse of the plaid here. (And WHAT is that LOOK on my face??? You'd think I'd discovered something nasty in my tote bag!)

The Vic bodice was interesting.  I was worried that it would be too tight in the back as I'd made 3/4" seams there, but Lisa ended up taking it in even more in that area (Rats!  I'll have to take the piping out to resew that!)

The Ren corset was easy as it was only strap placement. (Except that Lisa get the right shape and I just become a cylinder cuz my ribs won't squish and there's not much room between the ribs and the hip bones )All in all, it took us 5 hours, but it had to be done in order to continue our projects. We were mentally exhausted but pleased.  And I just LOVE my pink binding on the Ren corset! (Worn here with Victorian underthings.)