Machine Embroidery Blackwork or An Exercise in Patience - R

 I'm supposed to be doing all the blackwork embroidery for our Renaissance stuff.  This is the first time I've used the machine since it got its tune-up and that makes a world of difference. But I didn't want to tell Lisa that the reason I was stalling was that I couldn't find the right parts to do this!  I had no idea where the embroidery card was, no idea where I'd cleverly stashed the hoops.  It took me two solid days of office cleaning to find those missing items so that I could even begin the experiment.

 Here are two sections of blackwork butted together.  You can hardly see the join.  I'm not sure why this design stitches slightly off-center, but it does.

I stitched out a few samples so Lisa could choose what she wants on her chemise and I'll bring them to her tomorrow.  This time, all went well. I've been dreading this for such a long time because of the last disastrous use of the embroidery machine had me ruining the silk on my corset and recutting. Thank goodness these chemises will all be made out of muslin, so I'm not so worried if things go wrong on a piece.  

Ah!  That's what all that 'I'm busy filing' was about.  NO ONE has that much filing.  I can't wait to see them, and also, I'm going to need your help with buttonholes...this week.  I'm making a vest and blouse that I will post soon.

I do too have that much filing and I still have a pile left to do, but it IS true that I can't find stuff in my sewing room.  And today I find that YOU'VE got my buttonhole measureing device that I've been searching for for weeks.  Yarrgghhh!   You left it at my house sweetie!!

Learning the hard way - L

I cut the muslin for my new bodice this weekend.  It's mostly a hot mess, but I like the peplum, and the added pleat in the center back.  I'm thinking of using a different fabric for the pleat.  Not sure, just thinking.  The top of the bodice is wrong in many ways.  I expected to have problems.  The pattern is a jacket and designed as outerwear, and bust size is always a problem, especially when I'm in corset.  I successfully managed to add two inches in the bust and raise it about an inch.  I left too much room under the bust seam and need to take in quite a bit.  I didn't realize how much extra room is built into outerwear.  (I even cut a size smaller!)   I'll need to take it in all around the ribs and waist. And smooth the back.  And do something about the gap at the waist.  

Here's the mess. And the best picture I could get of the fabric.  Ah, shiny, reflective polyester!  I'm going to need Robin to help me re-pin all of these seams.  I haven't managed pinning in a mirror yet (though I may try it because I'm impatient).  One I get the bodice to fit, I have to add the sleeves and fit those.  I'm sure they're too big, and the shoulders are gigantic right now.  With everything wrong, I'm still excited. 

I also finished the farthingale, bum-roll, and all of the chemise I can do without embroidery.  I cut out the front panel and the over-skirt panels.  Next I'm cutting out the paned sleeves so I can start embroidering them.  The over-skirt is made from my old navy curtains.  I plan to decorate all the intersecting lines with pearls and faux stones.  The paned sleeve will be burgundy if I have enough fabric (bought a random remnant).  I'm very short waisted and confident I will look quite the divine bovine in this.  Ultimately, the front piece will be lined so the hoops won't show through.

Sometimes I don't make 'em, I just make 'em up - R

Lisa says "Photos or it doesn't count", so here they are.  I did not sew  either of these costumes.  I put mine together from clothes I already had and a cloche hat I found cheap at Marshall's.  My beau got his jacket, tie and costume fedora from the Goodwill.

Here we are on the restored Art Deco Club Car on the Niles Canyon Railroad's Holiday Lights Train. People thought we were crazy or wonderful.  We're just wonderfully crazy. We fit right in, spanning the entire Art Deco era in both our costumes.

Bum rush - L

Farthingale is nearly done.  I have to add the very bottom hoop which requires I actually anticipate the hem.  And I'm being lazy about it.  I have to add the waistband.  My post christmas belly is asking me to wait a couple weeks for the bloat to go down.  I made the bumroll.  The Margo Anderson patterns are easy to follow.  Also, it turns out that the inside of a farthingale is a great cat playground.  You can't see it in the picture, but my farthingale has a tail.

Tonight I'm going to cut out the chemise.  I can't sew it yet because Robin is going to machine embroider blackwork on the neckline and sleeves.  I'm actually just drawing those pieces on muslin .

That means she's going to have to fire up the embroidery and make it work.  She claims she needed this kick in her bumroll to get her started.

We have signed up for the 1912 project.  I hope we're up to it.  For the most part we will just be making muslins and we are confident we can do this in a day, if we work hard (sorry, this makes me giggle - there are very limited instructions - we're in way over our heads, but we're still excited)

I've settled on the basic pattern for the bodice to go with my black skirt. It's a modern semi-fitted equestrian style jacket so there will be a lot of modification involved.

This is from the pattern back.  I plan to change the collar, make it very fitted (requiring mods for the girls) and add a pleat at center back for my bustle.  I'm leaning toward the handkerchief hem.  The bustle is black lace with layer of some sort of sheer black gold stuff I got on sale.  This outfit has taken on the title of 'Steampunk Malificent'.  I might have to make a large brass flying inset for a hat.  With horns.  Anyhow, I may start the muslin this weekend.  We're hauling out the Dickens gear to go to a 12th Night Dance on Saturday.  So I may not have as much time as I think.

I was blog-surfing this morning and saw this, which really inspired me.  (Alexander McQueen)

Oh, I want to DO this!

I took this right off their page and this sounds like something Lisa and I have been batting around for a while as we discussed Edwardian Tea Dresses and traded pics of them.  Can't wait to see what additional patterns they put out. Maybe we can find a little time in between the Elizabethan projects to make some Edwardian as this is a special year for it. 

"Historical costumers and those who just love sewing vintage and antique patterns may be interested to learn about the Vintage Pattern Lending Library’s (VPLL) The 1912 Project.
The 1912 Project will reproduce approximately 150 patterns from the 1912 issues of the French fashion journal La Mode Illustrée by the end of 2012. The patterns that will be transcribed include not only women’s fashion, corsets, and lingerie, but also garments for men, children, and babies. And the VPLL needs sewers to help test the transcribed patterns and share their experiences working with and sewing them. Test sewers will receive the patterns at no cost as they are transcribed from the magazines.
The project is just one of many programs and events organized among costuming and vintage sewing groups to commemorate the 100-year anniversary of the sinking of Titanic on April 14-15, 1912.
Participants in The 1912 Project will track their own progress in sewing the patterns they receive by posting monthly updates and photos on their own blogs or by sending the VPLL photos and comments on their progress, which will be posted to the VPLL’s blog, Vintage Fashionista. The patterns will also be available for purchase on the VPLL’s website. To get involved, visit The 1912 Project or email the VPLL at vpll.librarian@gmail.com."
http://vpll.wordpress.com/2011/11/24/the-1912-project/#comment-93

New Year - New Project - L

The holiday chaos is not completely cleaned up, but I'm back and I'm starting my Renaissance costume.  I'm still having a tough time getting excited about it, but I think I'll be better when all the underthings are done.

I spent most of the post-Christmas doldrums knitting socks.  Sadly, not very many.  My first effort was stymied by my inability to understand the instructions.  My second effort (using a knitting board for the first time) is almost complete.  I'm about two hours from a completed pair of socks.  They are soft and warm and make my feet look very, very long.  Here's one and a half socks, and the knitting tool:

I also decided to make my farthingale. I got it cut out and realized that I didn't mark all the lines for the hoop channels.  Then I had to try and 'interpolate'.  My pattern is traced, and the original had been cut to accommodate my height. I also forgot to cut all the markings, and only cut some.  Seriously, if you're going to cut the little triangle at all, cut all or none.  Needless to say, there was additional confusion about which sides were to be sewn together.  Ultimately, I got it figured out and sewn.  I was going to do the recommended flat fell seams, but by that time I just wanted to be done.  So the seams are zig-zagged down.  I got most of the channels sewn in....at least until my bobbin ran out and I opted for a glass of wine and bed.  I can finish that this afternoon.  I took advice from a friend, Kyle Bogartman, who sells renaissance outfits and sews for an Austin designer Jennifer Ayers and used plastic pipe with connectors for my hoops.  It's fairly easy to take apart for washing.  Anyhow, after I put in my first channel, I had to put in a hoop to see how it looked.  It looked like a jellyfish.

It really seems too big, but I will be patient and wait until it's done before I change it.


 

Working the skirt - and another Dickens photo - L

I'm attempting the get the gathers 'just so'.  I had them nearly perfect and discovered another bit to add in.  So I tried to add more and messed it up.  Now I'm unpinning and re-pinning.  Here's what I had before I started messing with it.  I'm really glad I did the lace between the ribbons because I like it and it really wasn't that hard.

I took a break from sewing and being sick (again!) to create holiday cards.  And then I'm going to get a xmas tree set up.  All the while I'm thinking about the top I'm planning to go with this skirt.  I got the fabric yesterday and it refused to be photographed.  I'll have another go at it in better light.  I've seen about six styles of bodice that I like.  I need to edit my brain. I am going to create with bits of patterns that I already have and make up the parts I don't have, and am finding it difficult to avoid trying to cram all the things I like in one piece.  And I realize that a lot of things I like will NOT flatter my figure.  So my brain is going to churn away in the background while I'm making Christmas.


Here's a very silly photo of all our Dickens costumes (and my son in his Issun Boshi Halloween costume)

Robin's beau, in the vest and frock coat she made him (not quite finished here).
Robin in her 1850's full crinoline and bonnet.
Lisa in her 1870's Polonaise and straw boater.
Valerie in 1870's style we made together, and fascinator.
Her boyfriend in the vest and cravat Lisa made, along with a regular dress shirt with the collar tips starched to look Victorian, and the amazing jacket (a woman's size 10 long blazer with 4 inches of twill added in the center back and back collar - it should never have worked)
Zach - photo bombing as usual
We ended up doing a lot of last minute 'fixes' after this Thanksgiving dress rehearsal.

Now, back to the gathers...   Sewing cat, Tsunami, and I are making this face.
We are not amused.  Unlike Tsunami, I won't go pee on the laundry.  I will pin and un-pin and pin again.  And promise to never ever self medicate a cold with Chardonnay again.  (note - this does not work...not even a little)