Arched Brim Hat - Lisa

It is a fact universally acknowledged by those who know me, that I will go to any length to avoid 'doing' my hair.  Plus I have a little more time these days.  So, with the help and inspiration of Robin and Elizabeth Layton, I have made my first real hat.

It is really fiddle-y work,  but I may be hooked.  Never before now, has a hat ever been comfortable.  Not a loose straw hat or a baseball cap, or anything.  I have an oddly shaped head.  And now I have an oddly shaped hat for it.  And I made a caul because the hat alone doesn't cover my hair.  Now I can roll outta my house in my chemise and dress in the parked lot like everyone else, and not have to worry about my hair.  No 'curls falling out' or 'pin headaches'.  Huzzah!

Here's how it went:
Cut the brim pattern, in your size, of cardboard or heavy paper.  Adjust it to fit your head.  In my case, narrower in the front and wider in the back. I have no pictures of this.  Important...  since you measured your head already, the net of your adding and subtracting must be zero.  Or you have made to hat too large or small.  Check it before your cut your good stuff.

Cut buckram and add wire per the pattern.  Add wire if it isn't sturdy enough ( or at the suggestion of hat making friends ).  Glue on the fulling and bias tape per instructions.

Then cover.  Two simple words to convey my sore and tired hands.  Even my pliers are tired.  Possibly the hat is over-designed...  Still it's done.


























And the caul.  Which is a circle of muslin, machine stitched in a grid, with beads.  I actually added some fabric at the top for my big noggin, but it's hidden.  Put it all together, and snap a picture (or stand grimacing and saying 'take the damned picture already').

Thursday's Child - the Girl Friday blouse - Lisa

I bought this pattern from Decades of Style at Costume College along with a pattern for 'lounging pajamas'.  I will make the wide legged pants out of black linen.  Soon.  First I wanted to tackle the top.  When I looked at the finished measurements I wasn't sure if, or how, I would add to the bust.  I emailed the question and what I suspected was the best solution for me.  I got back an answer quickly.  Which is awesome.  The pattern has shoulder darts and front tucks for shaping.  I didn't want to add in those spots because it would create additional volume that I don't need, so I added side darts.  Because who doesn't want MORE DARTS!  And I did it on a pattern that doesn't have an armscye.  Because I like to torture myself. I made a quick muslin, though, and it fit decently.

The appeal of this pattern is the crazy collar with embroidery.  I made the blouse with an ivory and black print in cotton sheeting.  I was perplexed about how the embroidery would look with the print and what colors I would use.  I did a row with black and a row with dark red.  I thought about alternating them. Then I did a couple more rows.  Then someone said 'why did you do all that?  It looked better before'.  Usually I can ignore those kind of comments, but this time it resonated with my own worries. I slept on it.  And when I woke up in the morning, I pulled it all out and replaced it with a single row of soutache.  Much better.  Downside; even with careful measuring, the soutache didn't line up perfectly when I attached the collar.  I opted to match the top collar since it's the most obvious visual point.  And I officially loathe invisible side zippers, even though they look good.

Now I want to make the pants.  I know I will love them because I love wide legged pants.  However my yardage is based on the pattern recommendation and I have since discovered that I need to add 5 or 6 inches to the length.   Yikes.  That's probably 1/4 yard in the layout.  So I'm not looking at it for a week or so.  Maybe if the fabric sits around and watches TV for a while it will get fat.






(see, you can hardly tell it doesn't meet)

There is no final picture of me wearing it with pride.  I had to wash it to get the needle holes from the embroidery out.  Now I have to iron it.  Please do not hold your breath.

Down to the 'to-do's; - Elizabethan - Lisa

For the most part, this is it.
- I need to add rings for the sleeve ties.
- I have aglets for the ties that I have stored in a very special place.  Wish I remembered where.
- I need to pin the for-skirt to my farthingale.
- I need to add a panel in the center front because my bodice gaps a little which is frustrating because it seemed loose when I started.  Being squishy, I have trouble lacing to the same size consistently.
- And I have some decorations for the shoulders left to add.
- I should probably have a head covering.
But I'm basically done.  Hurrah.  Hurrah.  NEXT.

 We are going to the Ren Faire on October 5th.  I've never been.  I'm afraid I will sweat to death. I may have more pictures.  Or not.

Back to work (Eliza-beef-'n) - Lisa

Sigh.  I'm taking a break from fast, fun things and going back to work on my Elizabethan gear.  I've enjoyed making the underthings but so far I have not been inspired by the actual dress.  Maybe because we started these so long ago, and the project keeps being postponed?  Still, this is something we're doing, so I'm back in the saddle.  We recently cut muslins for our bodices and are ready to cut the fabric.  But before I do that, I need to fix what I've already done.  The neck opening for my chemise was too big and I couldn't keep it on.  None of the blackwork showed when I got dressed.  So I'm making it smaller.  What a pain.  Also, I'm aware that the opening should be big but it is too big for my taste.

First the blackwork facing had to come off and be made smaller.  I cut and sewed it back together less about 2 inches of width and 1 1/2 of length.  It was quite a lot, but I wanted to match the pattern on the embroidery as best I could.  I cut close to the turned edge at each corner so it had to be hand sewn to make sure the rough edges stayed turned under. Then I had to add fabric to the neck of the chemise.  Sounds simple, but it wasn't.  It was like adding the neck facing AGAIN.  I didn't want the addition to show meaning there were few places I could machine sew, so I gave up and sewed it by hand.

WRONG

On to the skirt.  I had already sewn the cartridge pleats to the waistband but the front was... off.  So I put EVERYTHING back on and marked the center front and back a few (5) inches where I want the front to be relatively flat.  Then I pulled all that careful stitching and did it over.  By hand.  Grrrr.  But now it's done and I can hem it and put on trim.  (after I shrink the hoops by about an inch each because of course they are not quite right).  When I put skirt on, the weight of the fabric pushed the front of my farthingale out and I ended up on Margo Anderson's Facebook page where I got a lot of helpful suggestions.  I ended up putting the bumroll UNDER the farthingale which redistributed the weight into the proper shape.  The over skirt is now done.

Next up is the fore panel.  Sad to admit that I wish I'd had more hot glue experience before I started it.  Arrgghh.  I had tentatively hemmed it, but that all changed once the overskirt was completely finished.  I finished hot gluing the black 'gems' and decided I needed to tack 'pearls' around them to disguise the hot glue mess.  Anything in ' ' can also be called 'plastic'.  Though once I got the ribbon trim on, I was pretty happy.

Here is a picture of the bottom half of my Elizabethan/Renaissance outfit.  All done.
I may add more to the forepanel, but I'm pretty sure I want a complete bodice first (wink).  I still need to shrink one of the hoops a little.  And the whole thing still seems a bit too big and shiny.  Probably because it IS big and shiny.

Dandelion - for real - Lisa

the WRONG fabric

I was a test sewist for Disparate Disciplines and made the Dandelion top as a muslin.
Dandelion Pattern
 Recently, Mari invited me to make it for real and join her blog hop.  If you've read this blog at all, you know that I don't sew 'regular' clothes, however, I have never sewn with knits and wanted to give it a try.  And if you've only read our statement, you may have noticed that I have a tough time following directions... So when I told Mari that I wanted to try this pattern in a knit, she told me not to get anything super stretchy because it could create problems with the darts.  I just ignored that.  Really, I wanted to be cooperate, but I couldn't find any fabric I liked that fit the rules.  Then again, I love a challenge.  Besides, I was in the mood to make something purple.

The first challenge was the zipper.  There were no 18 inch invisible zippers at my local store.  There were no 18 inch big, fun metal zippers.  Not in any color.  So much for the 'big silver zipper' down the back.  I got a regular zipper.  It will show on purpose.  Executive decision.

Having already made this pattern in muslin, I knew it fit me without any stretch.  I also knew that it seemed a tiny bit (like 1/4 inch) long in the back, or that I'm a bit sway-backed.  So I tweaked it ever so slightly.  And my compliments to Mari because I am a fitting nightmare.  To be blunt, I'm pretty chubby, with a large bust and small shoulders and back.  I'm also short waisted so my extra poundage tends to hang out in my stomach.  I often cut patterns 3 or 4 sizes smaller in the back and modify to match to the front.  As a tester, I decided to make the original muslin 'as-is' based on my measurements.  And it fit really well.  That's nearly unprecedented.

When you make this pattern take time to match up the pattern pieces properly, mark all the notches and darts.  This is not an easy pattern due to all the curved seams, but it's worth it.  And it's not difficult, just precise.  The curved seams create the shape.    (I mean it!  I will skip steps and take shortcuts any chance I get.  Layout and cutting this pattern is not the time to do this.)

lots of clipping

As before, the pattern went together without too much difficulty.  Seams must be clipped.  And I needed to do a lot of pinning.  I got to the facing and opted to sew it in phases since it I was doing the sweetheart neckline that has so many curves and I am still getting used to using the overlock.  Yup, I have never sewn with knits, and never used overlock.  I was nearly ready to hem, and I thought I'd just try it on.  HUGE.  Really.  I could pull it off and on without the zipper.  It HAS to be the knit because I compared it to the muslin and the difference is insignificant.  (Did everyone but me see this coming?)  I have so much ignorance around sewing with knits.  (Note to self - in future, consider taking advice and following instructions....)

ignore crooked interfacing - I did!

Based on a quick-and-dirty fitting, I needed to take the bulk of the extra out of the back.  This time I basted the zipper with the estimated reduction  (How hard is it to try and figure how much to take in from the center back while you're wearing it?) and it looked pretty good.

bra light!

This wasn't a huge surprise.  I knew I might be adding size based on how I put in the zipper, and with a narrow back that's the last place I need it.  C'est la vie!...  Overconfidence breeds an hour with the seam ripper being very, very careful.  It also prompted me to use a book light in my bra to improve lighting for handwork while watching my son play SkyRim.

I basted the zipper and decided it look better than machine sewn,  so I topstitched it by hand too.  I overlocked the hems and under-stitched the facing.  All done!

Post Script....
I can still pull this on without using the zipper.    I added about 1 1/2 inches in the hem.  I'm 5'10" and didn't want any accidental stomach exposure.  I also took in the seams under the bust  (after the picture) and fully tacked down the facing since the sweetheart portion kept curling out.  I agree that this isn't suitable for a drapey knit unless you REALLY know what you're doing.  But even with all my ignorance, I have a cute, wearable top*.  Please note the exposed zipper - it looks just fine and the back fits well.  No sagging or bagging.  This is a very fun and versatile pattern.  And I easily made it in less than a day!
(Including do-overs and hand sewing).

Go check out all the other great items made with this pattern during our blog hop!

  

9/2 Rhonda of Rhonda’s Creative Life

9/3 Wanett of Sown Brooklyn

9/4 Winnie of Scruffy Badger Time

9/5 Velosewer of How Good is That?

9/6 Lizzie of Sew Busy Lizzie

9/9 Joyatee of Joy and Smiles

.... me!....

9/11 Brooke of Custom Style

* you can tell I'm a costumer by my utter bewilderment at making wearable clothes... But I like it and may actually do it again (I'm planning to make the avocado hoodie as soon as I finish my 1920's and Elizabethan projects).  I am also thinking about making this as a dress, but making it tea length because PRETTY!

VPLL 1940 day dress - L

The VPLL is back under new management.  And I got the opportunity to test this 1940 day dress.  I love the pattern, and its hint of rockabilly sensibility.  I decided to burn down some stash fabric so all I had to get was a zipper and some buttons.
(in fact, this fabric is left over from my first Victorian outfit - picture at the end of the post). Before I get to my review of the pattern and instructions, here's a picture of the finished dress.













The fabric layout is for widths that are not common at modern fabric stores, however additional width will not allow using a lot less fabric as the layout will require at least 2 times the length of the finished dress.  I was short fabric and added a contract band at the hem to get the length I wanted.  The contrast band is not part of the pattern.

After looking at the picture, I decided that the vertical seams were piped.  It's not needed, but it adds a lot IMHO.
I'd add the piping option to the instructions

The main seams of the pattern matched and went together easily.  Seam clipping was definitely needed.

For the ruffles around the collar and pockets:
Instructions say this is optional and suggests a 1 3/4 strip of fabric of the 'necessary length'.  Assuming 3 times the length will make cute ruffles, then the collar ruffles should be about 18 inches, and the pocket ruffle should be about 12 inches.
I chose to pleat them rather than gather because (Robin has my ruffler foot) I'm lazy and pleating was faster.

I made up the collar, pockets and waist tie in contrasting fabric and I made them up before I started the main part of the dress.

I suggest a minor change to the instructions - to add the collar pieces to the front after step 7.  The instructions current have the collar added after most of the dress is together which makes it more difficult to wrangle that neck opening.

I added the ruffles per the instructions, BUT then I discovered that when I reversed the piece, the ruffles should have been carried into the body of the collar and pockets to fill in the seam allowance.  I had to stretch the ends of the ruffles to tack them in place.  (I hope that makes sense)  I don't have a good picture of this, but imagine sewing around the piece shown and reversing it.  The ruffles are 1/2 inch short of the body of the collar at each end.  I made it work fine, but a beginner would find that bewildering.

The dart placement was good (for a change).  I raised the ties over an inch higher than the recommended placement.  I'm chubby and short waisted so this wasn't a surprise.  I DO think they are sort of low.

There were two small mis-matches in the actual pattern.
First was the pocket placement.

The markings for pocket placement do not match the shape of the finished pocket.  They are exactly a seam allowance short on the top and bottom, although the side to side measured correctly.

I found a similar problem with the collar.

The length of the collar was a LOT longer than the 'V' in the center front.  I made the 'V' in the main body larger and I'm glad I did.  When I finished the dress, a smaller opening wouldn't have gone over my head.

Generally, I found attaching the collar a bit of a pain.  There was a lot of bulk at the base of the 'V' that had to be turned and sewn down with the facing.  That's not a flaw.  It's just how the pattern IS.  The narrow bias facing worked well for me.  It does need to be a narrow facing.  Otherwise the bias will not allow the sharper turns around the neck.


Finally, there is no mention of shoulder pads.

This era was renowned for shoulder pads, and I would suggest adding instructions for them (again, as an option).

Here's how I made them:

Each shoulder pad started as a 6 1/2 inch square of dress fabric, with a 6 inch square of poly batting AND a 4 inch square of poly batting.  I centered them, and folded them in half diagonally and zig-zagged around the outside.  Voila!

And just for fun, here is the original dress made from the teal plaid....

Costume College pix and Gatsby Sewing Sunday - L and R

Lazy, naughty, slacker bloggers.  I finally downloaded some pictures from Costume College.  I didn't take many.  I was too busy listening, learning, and meeting new people.  We also got a couple studio pictures which haven't been posted yet.  I was hoping to get them by now so I could post them here.

Getting ready for the Gala, Robin is all white and I am all black.  But this was just the foundation.  Our final pictures are still not up on the photographer's website.  

Most of the pictures we took were pictures in class to help us remember things.  Here's a couple from one of my favorite classes, 'How to Drape a Bodice' where we watched the teacher drape a civil war bodice in an hour.

I'd only imagined how to drape, so it was very enlightening.

And she gave us slides!

At the end of this post, I will add a bunch of pictures from the costume display.  Including some very cute hats.  But FIRST, we had sewing sunday yesterday.  

Robin has a LOT on her plate.  She needs to make significant progress on her Elizabethan dress, AND she needs to make a dress for the Gatsby picnic.  We focused on getting both bodices fit so she can cut and sew the final dress without worry.  Also, while I had cut out an Elizabethan bodice muslin, it is lost in history.  So I cut a new one and we fit mine too.  We did not take pictures.  

The only pictures we took were of MY nearly finished Gatsby dress.  Just needs hem and sleeve hems.

And my hat.  Which I should be getting very soon.  I borrowed my daughter's hat for pictures.  I also included a silly picture.  Because I like silly pictures.  

And I'm now buried in a mountain of hand work.  Hemming.  The skirt may be drapey, but it's a full circle.  

Also crocheting a vintage 'glamour' collar.  It's easy.  Slow but easy.

And while I'm hand sewing, I'm thinking about too many new projects.  

Victorian Anteater dress

Natural Form Plaid dress

Romantic era 

Robe a l'Anglaise

Regency

Pirate Coat (man's style but for me)

Improving my kraken bustle

Here are some pictures from the exhibit at CoCo and the dread pirate Robin: