Great Gatsby dress and a Doublet Update

I was vacillating between the 1920's and the early 1930's for the Great Gatsby picnic coming up in September and finally chose a pattern only because it was close to my size so I wouldn't have to modify it too much (I don't know how to create anything that doesn't already have a pattern) and this one was cheap compared to all the other vintage patterns out there.  This one is a re-release of a 1930's pattern sized up to modern sizes. It's not my favorite design by far, but I thought it would be less work. Unfortunately, I'm having problems reconciling the huge difference between how the illustration looks and how this dress actually hangs. It doesn't help that the muslin material is much heavier than the light, floaty fashion fabric I bought.

I think the whole thing looks dumpy. Maybe the belt will help.....
  Personally, I would shorten the top ruffle closer to boob height.  Pin it on the form and see.  After you put some sample shoulder pads in. L.

I sure hope this looks better with shoulder pads!

I had to recut the muslin for my SO's doublet. Thank the gods I didn't make it first, as the thickness of the pumpkin pants materials made me have to go up a size to fit over them. I did have a bit of a challenge fitting my sweetie as he fidgets and moans about the lack of a zipper every time he puts on the pants! And suddenly, these don't fit him in the waist, even though he's lost weight.  Argghhh! He'll just have to suck it up.

So now I have no excuses, I have to make the doublet. Yikes! Lucky for me this guy will wear whatever I throw at him.

New Patterns and Plans - L

I have a few new patterns and some plans.  They are very likely to join all the other plans stacked up in the sewing room.  My 'want' is a LOT bigger than my 'CAN'.  (hey, I'm aspirational!)

I got this because I like it.  And I wanted to make a dress that I could use as 'early 30's'.  I would need to make it shorter but I think it works.  (it's 1911)  The size says bust 36" so it definitely won't fit me.  Robin and I are going to Costume Academy this weekend and one of our classes is about sizing up vintage patterns.  I've been avoiding it because of all the modifications.

I have a couple different fabrics I could use so I'm looking forward to actually doing it.  If it works as planned, I can even wear it for reals....  like out to dinner or something.  We shall see.

My other Costume Academy Class is on blocking a wool cloche.  This will be helpful to our hat making efforts.  Robin is taking a class in making gigantic wigs (so HER) and casting stuff in your kitchen (so ME).  Somehow we ended up taking each other's classes.  Good thing we like to share.

Next up, this retro styled pattern.  I just like it.  And I got a polyester print to use as a coat lining that is too awesome for lining.  So I may have to make this.  It is actually my size.

One I clear the decks of Steampunk stuff I will take a look at this.

(I need to clean the sewing room and prioritize projects AGAIN, since I tore it up getting ready for Gallifrey One)

And last, another retro pattern that my daughter really loved.  So much that she went out and bought fabric to make it.  I screen-grabbed a picture of it off her FB feed.
I could not go a week without posting pictures.

Cracking the whip - L

Wow, life keeps derailing my plans to be the totally under-appreciated talent in the costuming sphere that I just know I will be (when I grow up).  So I made myself cut out new metal bits for my bustle.  And I only cut myself once.  The metal is a heavier weight.  It won't age like the prior choice, but it also won't dent when I breath on it.  Frustrating.

No pictures, nothing genuinely exciting.  More to follow.

AND I did a rough fitting of my jacket muslin (a steampunk/military style jacket).  Not perfect, but good enough to cut the fabric.  Robin will help me get a better fit if we ever get a chance to sew together again....

Princess Lisa and the Kraken disaster- L

 Maybe I mentioned...?  After making a Lord of the Rings 'Evil Minion' outfit I still wanted to make a princess dress.  I don't think I will ever wear it in public because, like my Titanic dress, it makes me look like the dancing hippos in Fantasia.  But hey, a girl can still WANT a princess dress...and MAKE a princess dress.
The dark jade is the dress, the white(ish) is the sleeve lining and the trim will go around the narrow part of the arm and around the neck.  The dark green is rayon and has a terrible bias droop.  I'm going to have to do something about the sides of the neckline since they are growing daily EVEN THOUGH I STAY STITCHED.  Can you sense my frustration?  Also, putting the sleeves together when one fabric stretches and one does not is a right bitch.  Seriously.  Robin has already lived this pain so I cannot complain too much.  Full pictures soon!

Here are the boys having fun at Gallifrey One.  I got a chance to meet Alisa from Dragonfly Designs by Alisa.  Yes, we took a picture but it's a blurry mess.  I came away from the convention totally inspired to work on my metal bustle.  As soon as I got home, I got to work.  And wrecked it.  Seriously.  Ground zero.  Start over.  I don't want to talk about it right now.  My Kraken will emerge from the deep again, bigger and better (if slightly heavier).  Use caution when aging metal....

Gallifrey One - Allons-y!

Got last minute tickets to Gallifrey One in LA in a week.  I know what I'll wear (steampunk/Dr Who)
I'm going with friends and the boys are each going to be a Doctor.  Mine will be '10'.  I got the suit and the high tops, shirt and tie, and found some old cardboard 3D glasses.
Now for the hair (he is not used to product and clearly uncomfortable but he likes it)

The BIG problem is making the suit fit.  I opening the seams under the arms and took it in.  Next I need to remove the front pleats from the pants and take them in.  Can that even be done?  I don't know. There are pockets in my way.  I need to fold the fabric over the pockets and fake it down, or just remove them altogether.  Strange enough, folding the fabric seems to be the easier solution.

I'll be back with pictures!

In addition, I'll be making a muslin of the TV Equestrian Jacket so Robin can so a fitting on our sewing day Sunday.  With whatever time I have left, I will start working on a medieval dress for Costume College.

On top of everything else, I'm missing a Gull Identification Walk to sew!  That actually makes me sad.

Preview of Upcoming Attractions! - Lisa

Ahead of the New Year (what?  I'm from California and Chinese NY is just around the corner), I decided to post a look at what I would like to do in the year of the Snake.

But first, I also have a resolution.  When Robin and I started this blog, our plan was to post about project ideas and the process of creation.  Looking back over our recent posts I think we are failing.  Instead of a fun look at our creation process, we have mostly posted 'Look!  I made something neat!' with some pictures.  This is NOT my best effort at thoughtful posting.  It's more like an afterthought.  I CAN do better and I will attempt to do so going forward.

Now back to our program!

Outfits for specific events:
Haradrim - I've already posted this!  I made this to challenge myself to work without a pattern; I made this so I wouldn't be one among a slew of princess dresses; I made this to indulge my general bad-assedness.
All this was achieved.  I haven't worn it yet.  Knowing me, I will go to the event, stay a couple of hours and go home early.  This is one of those costumes that I enjoy making far more than wearing.  It was huge fun to make a corset bodice and do everything (intentionally) wrong and yet have it work.  I SHOULD have blogged about this.  I had fun making decorations, adding metallic rivets and painted plastic that look very different than the original materials.  It has also provided inspiration for a couple ideas creeping around the back of my head.  So... Success!

Steampunk Ass-Kraken - I want to make something out of metal; I want to make a 'structural' bustle that can be worn as an ornament on it's own; I want to incorporate light and/or movement in a costume.  I'm in waaay over my head, but having fun.

1920's - 30's for the Gatsby Picnic - Robin is going, and is making a dress.  I love the sound of it but I'm still waffling.  Let's face it, I'm fat and this era is brutal on fat chicks.  At my age I should be OVER it but I'm not.  That said, I have a 1911 pattern that I love.  If I made it shorter (mid calf) I think it would 'read' early 1930s.  That's my plan.  The pattern is the wrong size so I need to make and fit a muslin.  IF that works, I have two different lawn fabrics with contrasting trim that would make up wonderfully for this event.

Medieval - Robin and I are going to Costume College!  Part of the program is an 'ice cream social' in medieval garb.  So while I chose not to be a 'princess' for LOTR, that doesn't mean I don't want to actually make a princess dress.  I have a pattern for a bliaut and was going to try and make one.  But after thinking hard, I realize that using the same costume pattern that Robin used for her LOTR will result in a more flattering fit.  Basically, who doesn't want a princess dress?  Even if it's not so very flattering.

Also for Costume College - There is a Pajama Breakfast, and a Pirate Tea.  I will wear my princess slip and my polonaise, respectively, after some alterations.  Nothing major, but absolutely essential.  There is also a 'Fantasy' evening that is wide open to anything.  I will either wear the Haradrim or the Ass-Kraken.  Whichever I'm most fond of when I'm packing.

Renaissance Dress - I'm two thirds of the way through this.  We haven't picked a fair for this year, and I'm waiting for Robin to decide.  But I would dearly like to finish this monster just to clear the sewing room and my brain.

Outfits I WANT (that I don't have a specific place to wear) - 
Steampunk/Miliitary Jacket - I have had the fabric for two years.  I have looked at a variety of patterns.  I'm indecisive.
 
I have both of these patterns.  I think I'm going to use the Truly Victorian since I plan to wear this with a bustle skirt.  But I crave the asymmetry of the modern jacket.  Plus, I wanted to make the top work like reveres, pivoting from the lowest button.  Well, no one said I can't make two!

The jacket from True Grit - NOT 'her father's jacket' that she wears on the trail, but the simple jacket she wears at the beginning of the movie.  I have no pattern.  I will have to modify an existing pattern or drape it.  And draping it is my challenge.  A quick reminder picture:


1940's vintage swing coat - Pattern and fabric acquired.  I need to make the time.  And I want it to look classy and properly tailored so I need to NOT be in a hurry.  This will improve my skills. Plus, swing coat!

1912 Project Duster - I have the pattern, the fabric and the lining.  I need to re-size the pattern and make a muslin.  I also need to make a decision about the lining.  I bought a beautiful fabric - in fact, SO beautiful that I want to do something else with it.  Anything else, but resign it to lining a coat I may never wear. This is a 'skill builder' and it may turn out awesome.

Bustle Dresses - I want them all!  I have a smooth slightly shiny light grey wool and just bought a black, tan and white stripe fabric for accent.  I have ruby red silk and dark green silk on the way.  So many ideas!!!

I also want to do these things:

learn to use my drop spindle, 

weave a shawl  

knit at least 5 pairs of socks
knit a sweater that I actually wear

re-do the peplum on the 1912 Blouse 1000

make that old brown Steampunk skirt look a bit weathered and tattered and a lot shorter 

crotchet black fingerless gloves

So I'm vowing right now that I will post at LEAST weekly and plan on twice a week.  I will post by project with more detail.  I will update posts more often and then move them to the top of the blog so it isn't such a search to find things.  Wish me luck!

Battle for Middle Earth!

Sunday Sewing day - tracing patterns, finishing touches, fitting, ideas, and....
A BATTLE FOR MIDDLE EARTH!

Lisa and I have been working on our costumes for the PEERS Rivendell Revels, a costumed dance with costumes that would be worn in Lord of the Rings' world, the Middle Earth. My original thought was to be an elf (if you've ever seen my ears, you'd know why because I wouldn't even need a prosthetic!), but Lisa convinced me that everyone would be elves, so I chose to be a woman in the Rohan Court, serving Lady Eowyn. The dress is an homage to the green Eowyn dress, still missing the belt.

Lisa didn't see herself as either an ethereal elf, a Hobbit (the world's tallest Hobbit?) or a human on the side of good, but rather, a baddie.  But which one? She chose to make an rendition of a Haradrim Warrior.  In the movie, only males are shown, but Lisa chose to create what a female Haradrim Warrior would wear. I think she did an awesome job! She scares the heck out of me.
For the record - everyone wants to be the princess or the hero.  But the bad guys get all the great costumes!
And it's ironic that Valerie wanted to be a Rohirrim and ended up looking like an elf.  With two of our group already using the same pattern, I'm glad I 'stomped' out on a limb.



  For fun, we enacted a battle between Good and Evil.  and sneak a peek at Robin's collar... that is 'painted lace'.  She has a very deft and steady hand.

Evil won. (because Evil had weapons)

I spent our sewing Sunday tracing patterns for upcoming costumes ALL DAY LONG (Ugh). We fitted a muslin for Lisa's upcoming medieval gown and Lisa finished details of her Harradim costume. All in all, a productive and fun day.

Here's a quick peek at the elf dress - bad photo and not finished....